P38 Auto gerbox problem

Hi I have just bought a p38 auto range rover 1999 2.5 diesel, I was wondering if anyone had this problem I am having with it, it seams to have no power when driving it. I have only been a couple of miles from home, and it seams like a limp mode but nothing is coming up on the dash, also I have just put about 3 litres of auto box oil in as when realised it was low this might be causing the symptoms I am getting, the engine seams to be running well and revs ok, I have booked it in to my local garage for new transmission oil and filter, but could it be something else?

Three litres is a lot, it could well be the cause, I would certainly try the oil and filter change first, clean oil always helps. The other possibility is the forward clutch pack, is there a big difference in take up from rest between fwd and rev? Clutch pack would be a rebuild job, and a good reason to complain to the vendor depending on the nature of the purchase.

Hi Blanco when its on tick over with the hand brake on it makes a light clunk going from fwd to rev and the revs seam to drop a bit in-between, and as it only cost me £350 to buy with this fault there but was hoping it might be a cheep fix lol but nothing is cheep when it come to cars lol I thought I had found it the other day when I noticed air bubbles in the diesel, it was a loose clip but no

ct21 said:

Hi Blanco when its on tick over with the hand brake on it makes a light clunk going from fwd to rev and the revs seam to drop a bit in-between, and as it only cost me £350 to buy with this fault there but was hoping it might be a cheep fix lol but nothing is cheep when it come to cars lol I thought I had found it the other day when I noticed air bubbles in the diesel, it was a loose clip but no

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Clunk could be worn UJs or click could be loose driveshaft splines which can be fixed by using Loctite 648 where they go through the hub.

Low power. Check MAP pipe and also hoses from turbo through to intercooler then out other side and into inlet manifold.

Pipes could be delaminating under load or even just loose. Intercoolers probably bogged. Map pipe is favourite to come off, all sh***d up with EGR probably bit depends on condition.

What mileage is it? I like pics (especially muddy oily engines).

For £350 - you drove it home you’ve done okay. For money you may want to get it plugged in to a nanocom, cleared and read particularly with auto first as last.

Grrrrrr said:

Clunk could be worn UJs or click could be loose driveshaft splines which can be fixed by using Loctite 648 where they go through the hub.

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Thanks I'll check that out

RangeRoller dt said:

Pipes could be delaminating under load or even just loose. Intercoolers probably bogged. Map pipe is favourite to come off, all sh***d up with EGR probably bit depends on condition.

What mileage is it? I like pics (especially muddy oily engines).

For £350 - you drove it home you’ve done okay. For money you may want to get it plugged in to a nanocom, cleared and read particularly with auto first as last.

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Thanks I'll definitely get it scanned and see if it comes out with anything, it's done 137000 and the engine isn't to oily lol it sounds sweet as a nut I think it's had an egr delete as well. But iam definitely taking it to get a new filter and oil in the box

Get us a pic of the bay so we can see

If you have an old hotstart or powerbox I’d try checking wiring and disconnect see if it makes a difference too. What POs have done can be most the troubles on times. EAS work fine?

RangeRoller dt said:

Get us a pic of the bay so we can see

If you have an old hotstart or powerbox I’d try checking wiring and disconnect see if it makes a difference too. What POs have done can be most the troubles on times. EAS work fine?

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Will take some pictures tomorrow and put them on. I don't think there has been an add on box put on. Not sure how to check the EAS out but if it's at fault will the scan bring it up? Thanks once again

ct21 said:

Will take some pictures tomorrow and put them on. I don't think there has been an add on box put on. Not sure how to check the EAS out but if it's at fault will the scan bring it up? Thanks once again

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It isn't OBD compliant so it needs specialised diagnostics.

Grrrrrr said:

It isn't OBD compliant so it needs specialised diagnostics.

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I thought as much there is a local landranger about 3miles down the road from me I'll see if they can do it, or maybe a mobile company. But I will check all the pipes and connectors later on today. There is also a lad I know in the village where I live that has the same model and year I might be able to try swapping stuff around to see if it does anything. Watch this space

ct21 said:

I thought as much there is a local landranger about 3miles down the road from me I'll see if they can do it, or maybe a mobile company. But I will check all the pipes and connectors later on today. There is also a lad I know in the village where I live that has the same model and year I might be able to try swapping stuff around to see if it does anything. Watch this space

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You could always try the LZIR map and see if a member nearby has diag. Not sure about North Wales though. That was more Defender territory in the past

You do know that you fill the gearbox with the engine running and after moving through the gears?
If the gearbox oil was that low, it suggests neglect so you need to check the transfer box and diff oil condition and levels.
Throttle response is unusual, all the action comes in the last 25% of pedal movement which fools some into thinking there is no power.

Grrrrrr said:

It isn't OBD compliant so it needs specialised diagnostics.

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Thanks Grrrrrr I am in the process of trying to find someone to come and have a look at it and my mechanic in the village is try as well, he couldn't connect his machine to find out if there is any codes or not

Datatek said:

You do know that you fill the gearbox with the engine running and after moving through the gears?
If the gearbox oil was that low, it suggests neglect so you need to check the transfer box and diff oil condition and levels.
Throttle response is unusual, all the action comes in the last 25% of pedal movement which fools some into thinking there is no power.

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Hi I do know that the engine has to be running and go through the gears, I used to have a auto 3.9 classic, I am going to check all the oils tomorrow and have a good dig around under the bonnet to see if I can find out what's going on, many thanks

ct21 said:

Thanks Grrrrrr I am in the process of trying to find someone to come and have a look at it and my mechanic in the village is try as well, he couldn't connect his machine to find out if there is any codes or not

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Supapete on Anglesey has a nanocom but it's for a thor. If you are prepared to buy the license for the doozle, he might be able to help.
If you plan to keep the car any length of time, I'd be inclined to invest in nanocom as it will pay for itself very quickly and get you out of some sticky spots!

Also I have just noticed that the gear selector will only go as far down as 2nd, and the gear leaver is all the way back, don't know if this is anything or not, I do appreciate all your advice and comments, hopefully we can get to the bottom of this. Thanks once again

ct21 said:

Also I have just noticed that the gear selector will only go as far down as 2nd, and the gear leaver is all the way back, don't know if this is anything or not, I do appreciate all your advice and comments, hopefully we can get to the bottom of this. Thanks once again

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that need adjusting first , you can feel the different detents with the lever on the box cable removed, if the lever is in the fully forward detent lever in cab should be in p tighten cable back then try each gear through to 1

ct21 said:

Also I have just noticed that the gear selector will only go as far down as 2nd, and the gear leaver is all the way back, don't know if this is anything or not, I do appreciate all your advice and comments, hopefully we can get to the bottom of this. Thanks once again

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You need to get a copy of RAVE and look at the section on adjusting the gear linkage cable.