P38 Turbo power loss

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Leak off pipes are spill pipes? Same 3.2mm for inlet manifold - MAP pipe too.

Wammers top tip - put shrink wrap over the end of the spill pipe. Will help them last, they do take some pushing, heating them a little in hot water will help them slip on just make sure they are right down on nipple. Shouldn’t be slack :confused: renew if any doubt with these.

It will make difference, she will start to shift if it’s needed it a while. :)
 
No leaking on mine and no cable-ties or heat shrink. But then I got the decent stuff off Dopey's Polish contact.

I know Mr Tomcat had a hell of a job finding decent pipe.
 
Thanks for the guidance, it's as I thought but needed to get confirmation as some things I do seem logical but then I screw up..........it happens

The spill pipe I have is 3.2 and I have fitted it and it works

The problem I am having is the leak off pipes don't want to seal and seem to be weaping at times, I push fit them on but just wanted to check if there is any fix for when they don't seal?

Thanks
I need to replace my spill pipes regularly, thought I cought a whiff of diesel as I walked past the front of my car yesterday, so will have to check again. I had some sucsess by melting the braid then using heat shrink on the ends. ;)
 
I need to replace my spill pipes regularly, thought I cought a whiff of diesel as I walked past the front of my car yesterday, so will have to check again. I had some sucsess by melting the braid then using heat shrink on the ends. ;)

Spill pipes were never such a big issue in bygone days. It has to be to do with the chemicals they are putting in the fuel these days. My old dumper running on red diesel has had silicone spill pipes on for over fifteen years. They are as good as the day they were fitted. Try fitting them on your P38 or any other road going diesel and see what happens to them.
 
Spill pipes were never such a big issue in bygone days. It has to be to do with the chemicals they are putting in the fuel these days. My old dumper running on red diesel has had silicone spill pipes on for over fifteen years. They are as good as the day they were fitted. Try fitting them on your P38 or any other road going diesel and see what happens to them.
Morning Tony, no chance of a recall from JLR then.:rolleyes::D
 
Morning Tony, no chance of a recall from JLR then.:rolleyes::D

I seriously doubt that Alan. After all they did know about the RF receiver problem long before production ended. Then introduced the mark three version at ridiculous money after production ended. All vehicles still in warranty after production ended should have been recalled but never were. They got away with that one big time.
 
I will admit I am still learning and as I have FMS and spinal issues memory is very poor and any activity is a big issue for me so things I may have known I forget or need to re-teach myself on most tasks....................so sorry if I mess up when I post I am only human.

I have checked the pipe from the MAP sensor to the inlet manifold, it is not blocked but did have a few small splits in the pipe (this would not have helped)

The pipe was not blocked (but forgot to check the spigot) but has now been replaced with new pipe (I will check it shortly for being blocked) but we are still having the same problem. It pulls like a train until it gets to 3250 rpm and then just bogs, if you keep your foot in it will not do anything but if you let the revs drop then you get power back. If you stay below 3000 rpm it is fine but go over and you are hitting a wall with the power.

Could it be the MAP or something else.

I will be changing the fuel and air tomorrow and I am waiting for the degreaser to clean the intercooler system, will brake cleaner do the job as I used to use it a lot to degrease but never tried it on an intercooler.

Thanks for all your great advice
Acetone is what I use for cleaning the intercooler.
 
Acetone is what I use for cleaning the intercooler.

Not sure you can even get it these days in case some numpty tries blowing himself up on a plane. I wanted some sodium chlorate the other day (persistent weedkiller for the drive) and was told no-way Jose. F*cking nanny state.
 
Not sure you can even get it these days in case some numpty tries blowing himself up on a plane. I wanted some sodium chlorate the other day (persistent weedkiller for the drive) and was told no-way Jose. F*cking nanny state.

If you have someone near you who sells fibreglass and resin products they will surely have Acetone. It's used to clean the tooling.
 
I cable tyed mine on as they kept going and have not had an issue in 5_6 years , the other option is to hear shrink the ends.
 
When I first took ownership of my truck the leak offs were odd bits of ragged spill pipe, some old silicon tubing and some unknown pipe like off a kids pop bottle :confused:
There was a lot of air in clear pipe after short run and would cut out and air lock.
I don’t understand how it managed to run at all after seeing state on it.

Local MF lives in his shop and all he’s ever done has lots of old stuff in back room from years ago. I’m guessing my spills are older products stored as no problems without ties or shrink wrap but some people have to change regurlarly with modern cheap sh*t?
 
Not sure you can even get it these days in case some numpty tries blowing himself up on a plane. I wanted some sodium chlorate the other day (persistent weedkiller for the drive) and was told no-way Jose. F*cking nanny state.
It's on the shelf in all supermarkets here in France. The IRA put paid to sales of Sodium Chlorate. Agricultural strength Round Up is better though, plus the local Farmer has some other evil stuff that he calls Azo, it kills everything:eek:
 
Thanks to everyone who has given the great advice, I for one appreciate it.

To update everyone, I have managed to fix this problem and this is what I have done

The suggestion of a fuel filter change and an air filter change (can't remember who suggested it) partly fixed the problem as I got more power back but didn't fix the whole thing.

I had replaced the manifold to rad pipe as it was failing, but I should have listened to my own advice (this being if one is bad the others will follow as the new part will show weakness in the other parts) So I ordered the other two pipes prior to doing the air and fuel filters and they arrived today (bit of a pig to fit to the turbo) but Thanks to my son he did the job on a hot engine, we tested it and the pipe popped off (always check your pipes are fastened correctly) but after refitting we have full power and full boost.

Job done and a big thanks to everyone to offered advice and ideas on how and what to look for, my head doesn't work as well as it did and your advice has helped a lot.

The spill pipes are it seems a common issue and I did source a large supply of good quality product but after 20 plus years the pipe doesn't sit as tight as it should when new, I for one like and agree that the heat skrink idea is one of the best ideas and use of heat strink I have heard in a lot of years, I have some in stock and will be adding it to my pipes tomorrow. I know how heat skrink works but will the heat from the engine strink it or apply heat directly as we would when doing wiring?

Again I appreciate every comment that offers advice and it has helped me get to the correct fix on my P38.

My top tip is change all the pipes at the same time as if you try to do them one by one it will not work. I purchased mine from Rimmer Bros and I used aftermarket parts and they work well

Intercooler Hose - ESR1483P - 2.95
Intercooler Hose - ESR3295P - 5.00
Intercooler Hose - ESR3289P- 5.90

Plus postage but you don't need to buy the aftermarket stuff that includes the metal at silly money.

The job for the weekend is to remove the rad and clean it as suggested as most auto paint suppliers supply Acetone and I have parafin in stock so job done.
 
Heat the heat-shrink stuff.

Good news. Tomcat was the filter man.

Rimmer Bros are OK on some things but darn expensive on others. Good customer service though and easy to return stuff. If you never return stuff, even duff stuff, then Island-4x4 are cheap but I'll never touch them again. Then there's Famous Four (?) and Paddock Spares. Eurocarparts often surprise me although I am told they tend to be a middle man doing just in time rather than holding all their own stock.
 
New spill pipes will cost about £8.

Clip on pipe joining turbo can be a pain to get to. I will be reminded of this tomorrow (later today) when I take it off to get some clearance look at my leaky steering box. May flush my intercooler while I’m at it ;)
 
Heat the heat-shrink stuff.

Good news. Tomcat was the filter man.

Rimmer Bros are OK on some things but darn expensive on others. Good customer service though and easy to return stuff. If you never return stuff, even duff stuff, then Island-4x4 are cheap but I'll never touch them again. Then there's Famous Four (?) and Paddock Spares. Eurocarparts often surprise me although I am told they tend to be a middle man doing just in time rather than holding all their own stock.
I get most of my stuff from Island 4 x 4, better prices on most things and their carriage charges to France are reasonable.
 
I used to. Right up until I tried to return a part that wasn't even the right shape. Never again.
When the sent me 2 right hand front callipers instead of one left and one right, they sent me a replacement the same day and told me to keep the wrong one as it wasn't worth the cost of posting back from France.
 
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