Undoing Shock absorber nuts

Has anyone got any tips before I take the angle grinder with cutting disc to the wretched things?

All I want to do is change the bushes at the bottom of the rear shocks and I can't move the nuts. There's a piddly little flat on the end of the thread that I have cleaned up and can 'just' get a 11 mm open ended spanner on, but it's not holding the thread in place for me to get the nut moved with a ring spanner.

There's no room to get a rattle gun on because the back plate of the brakes is in the way..

Defender TD5 if anyone is wondering.

Mole grips or/and heat.

I never bother now. Cut them off and fit new britpart dampers unless the nuts succumb easily of course.

I've just bought some new shock absorbers. My local Landy specialist (independent) dealer persuaded me that BOGE oil filled would be fine for my purposes. (No raised suspension, mostly road use with the occasional off road use for shooting and fetching logs etc)

I used a filter clamp to hold the shock.

The bottom of the dampers are meant to be quick detachable, stop the tube from turning and turn the nut... and the dampers stud will shear and with the nut both will fall to the floor, which happened to me back in my RR days

All fully agreed experience.... Stilson on the barrel should hold it steady .....but forget all that and angle grind them off to save hours of pi**ing about..... ;-)

(If the old shocks are really worth saving then drill the nut and put a nut splitter on it....)

I usually choose anger when doing damper nuts, they will give in when the red mist descends...

The angle grinder was brought out and new BOGE oil filled shocks fitted with poly bushes on the bottom end.

I hadn’t realised that the 19mm nuts for the end of the damper and the stud on the chassis mount had different threads (one is coarser than the other; one metric one af?). On the first shock absorber I fitted I picked up the right nut by chance which left me the correct choice for the other end. On the second one I wondered why the first nut I picked up nut wasn’t going on a perfectly cleaned up thread...

Boge and Armstrong are both OEM dampers, a good choice and they don't cost the earth.

A cutting disc for your grinder is also a worth while buy, I rarely use grinding discs these days.

I agree - and in fact I was using a cutting disc. I was lazy in my use of English and just referred to the mini angle grinder by it's ubiquitous name.

I slathered the threads and nuts with copperslip the last time I changed a pair. No idea if it will help in a few years time though.
Grinder won't get at the bottom front damper nuts , I use a sabre saw, cheapy from lidl or Aldi which did the job good.