2004 Range Rover - Dead

I'm feeling terribly ashamed to ask but are there any links available for 2004 Range Rover DVM and diagrams?

Running out of ideas here and looking more like I'm headed for a huge repair bill.

Canerat said:

I'm feeling terribly ashamed to ask but are there any links available for 2004 Range Rover DVM and diagrams?

Running out of ideas here and looking more like I'm headed for a huge repair bill.

Click to expand...

DVM is a digital Volt meter, check for voltage coming into the switch and voltage going out with the key in positions #1, #2 or #3. You may find, as others have that you have 12 volts coming in but on;y half that or less going out, in which case the switch is duff. Can be done without the diagrams but easier with.
I don't know where you can find the diagrams, they may be in the technical archive top left or try a search.

Datatek said:

DVM is a digital Volt meter, check for voltage coming into the switch and voltage going out with the key in positions #1, #2 or #3. You may find, as others have that you have 12 volts coming in but on;y half that or less going out, in which case the switch is duff. Can be done without the diagrams but easier with.
I don't know where you can find the diagrams, they may be in the technical archive top left or try a search.

Click to expand...

Thanks for that, I've got a guy coming out in the morning to give me a hand.

Yet another possibility – the inhibitor switch on the transmission prevents the starter motor cranking the engine unless it detects that the transmission shift lever is in Park or Neutral. These switches are frequently problematic because they’re exposed to the elements, underneath the vehicle.

Phil

If the key is turning I would say it is paired as mine won’t turn without it but Saintv8s does turn, and when mine loses the EWS3D pairing to Bosch ME7.2 (something like that) engine ECU it still cranks but will not start.
As Phil says it could be inhibitor switch or ignition switch. The wiring diagrams are in the download section and I would follow a methodical path of checking voltages at certain points to check where the problem is which there have been several threads on here recently. These traced back to ignition switch, a broken wire feeding the ignition switch and a hidden after market immobiliser that had failed.
I can post a wiring diagram later if you need it with notes added on.

Don't open the key. it was a question not a suggestion !

Maybe somebody should ask if he has taken it to a remote location and set fire to it ?

If you're keeping the car I would check Storey Wilson's website and look at his diagnostics. Probably as cheap as it gets.