This is absolutely depressing

Can someone please point me in the direction of check the timing? i can't even find a cheap downloadable manual only hard copies online in Aus

Its my understanding that if the timing was out, generally they just won't start. This engine appears to be starting OK so that would point to the timing being OK.

There's a downloadable LR workshop manual 'Rave', info here...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/rave-disk-maintenance-manual.260227/

You'll need the manual for the early Freelander which covers the L Series

GrumpyGel said:

Its my understanding that if the timing was out, generally they just won't start.

Click to expand...

Retarded timing for sure, but if it's advanced, it can still affect the way the vehicle runs, and still start OK.

I'm thinking that with this messed about vehicle, there's no guarantee that it's even got the correct pump on it.

I believe the correct pump should have the Bosch code "0 460 404 973" written/stamped on it.

I wiĺl check it tomorrow guys its midnight here, i was about to get the mot done but realised the cracked windscreen wont pass the safety inspection

What kind of kilometers are u guys getting to a full tank of diesel out of the L Series?

The winscreen repair and 12 months mot is going to cost a little over $1000 so i have close to AUD $3000 invested in the car once registered

Forgot to ask what will it cost to set the pump timing?

I get roughly 600kms out of a tank of 50l on a run with my L Series.

I don't think you have a timing issue with the fuel pump, or else the engine wouldn't start.

WildOne said:

Forgot to ask what will it cost to set the pump timing?

Click to expand...

No. It's very easy to check the pump timing.

According to two info videos based on the L series FL on youtube this model does have limp home mode and my ABS light is on which might trigger the LHM which is the effect im seeing on the peddle

Once again, I think you need to get the car on diagnostics.

I'm not sure if there is a limp mode on the L Series as such - but there are symptoms that might make it look like that.

I'm not sure if the Freelander EDC checks if the brake peddle is pushed, it does on Rover car L Series and will lower revs if is is pushed. Your ABS light may be related to this. It might be unrelated to the brakes and possibly be the TPS or wiring between it and the EDC or possibly wiring to the pump.

Diagnostics, with someone who understands them, will tell you a lot about what's going on on your car.

Did you check the Bosch code on the pump?

Here are two pictures of the numbers on the pump, the L series does have limp mode

Here is the other picture

Back at it again guys the car is grinding to go in reverse bugger

Whats your thoughts guys I'm in the car at AUD$1800 already it needs a AUD$290 windscreen replacement, Registration inspection AUD $50, Registration AUD$1000, New genuine master slave and bracket AUD$400 to $500 am i just sinking money into a worthless money pit? the car also blows a little smoke but the last owner was pouring 2 stroke oil into the tank for some strange reason he said so the injector pump didn't fail lol

If you're buying parts, try...

https://www.lrdirect.com/

They will almost certainly be cheaper than buying local and there's a good chance they'll get the parts to you quicker as well.

I'm sure the same is true with the other big UK suppliers.

Lrdirect is where i got my clutch kit from but there web site is really hard to navigate than it sends u to a parts list page and u cant click on anything

They pretty much have nothing for my car can u recommend another site?

I used google to search for my master/slave cylinder and it came up $350 im not prepared to spend that kind of money the car cost $1350, $350 for one part is crazy and its just a hose

Is there any way of strengthening my slave mount has it been done before if so can someone link me please

Im at the point of taking a $800 loss and selling the car rather than sinking over $3500 into a car that will only sell for $2000 in running order

Admittedly it is best if you know the part number on the LRDirect site, but to say they have nothing for your car is wrong, they have virtually everything that is available and they will list genuine, OEM and aftermarket options.

I did a quick search for the clutch hydraulics and I think the part number is STC000180 (I have not double checked), they have options priced from $46 to $173 (that's NZD, AUD will be slightly less)...

https://www.lrdirect.com/STC000180-Clutch-Master-Slave-Cyls-Freeland/?keep_https=yes

If you get an older car with unknown problems, then it is quite possible that the cost of putting it back on the road will be more than the car's value. Lets face it, there will have been a number of Freelanders (in the UK at least) that have been scrapped because they need new tyres! It all depends on the car's overall condition and what you want to get out of it as to whether you take a punt on taking the car on.

When weighing up the cost to repair v value of vehicle when it's fixed... Yer need ter consider what yer intend ter do with it. If it becomes a reliable runner then you will get back some or all of what yer put into repairing it. Forget the money side of things... Do you want ter drive it or sell it? That's the betterer questions to answer first.

Once you get bit with LR bug you cant help it, you spend money getting it running and driving to how it should be, then you stand back look at it with a big grin and say I did all that.(and reading your thread you have done it yourself with a bit of help off LZ )
So I would say you have come this far you might aswell see it through.
Dave.
ps just gonna load two of my grandsons into the F1 and we are off to the Rugby I think they come just for the ride in it.