300tdi discovery project

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Well done for taking it on :)

3 door discos are the best IMHO - SWMBO has one :):) I have a 5 door, which I'm far too tempted to sell and find a 3 door ..... might have to find the 3 door first, weld it up, and then sell the 5 door though :rolleyes: :D .... ;)

And ....

Welcome Aboard :)

Cheers, yeah they look the best in my opinion, I’ve got 2 5doors for spares actually in slightly better condition than this but I want this one on the road again, hoping to have it done in the next month or two weather depending as my shed isn’t built as of yet :(
 
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A little more done today whilst I’m waiting on my rock sliders being made, so I can tie in the a and b post, inner arches started on and nearly completed, but had enough for one day.

Ordered some bilt hamber seam sealer and some of the underbody coatings they sell to give them a try to see what one I prefer so they will hopefully arrive tomorrow so I can get the drivers carpets and seat back in after coating my seams and welds, hand me a beer :)
 

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Tomorrow the disco will be forgotten about as I’ve to refit an electronic park brake module/motor and rear discs,shoes and pads to a discovery 4, I’d much rather be working on my old horse,
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This was the last time it was on the road, wish me luck for tomorrow:(
 
Ordered some bilt hamber seam sealer and some of the underbody coatings they sell to give them a try......

I'm a big fan of the Bilt Hamber stuff - from the cavity and underbody waxes, to their Deox range of rust removers ( Witchcraft :eek: )...

I'm also a fan of Dinitrol - and just used some of their clear wax on a repair I did on SWMBO's D1 about a month ago ... it's almost glass clear, and is working thus far :)

Funny how the "proper" corrosion prevention folks don't make underseal .....;)
 
Tomorrow the disco will be forgotten about as I’ve to refit an electronic park brake module/motor and rear discs,shoes and pads to a discovery 4, I’d much rather be working on my old horse,
This was the last time it was on the road, wish me luck for tomorrow:(

Good Luck :)

I've no time for modern stuff - we had a FFRR a while ago that, brand new, packed up on the day we got it :eek: :rolleyes: ....

I had part exed my D1 commercial to get this POS, and after losing the will to live with a dealership that, er, weren't very good, bought my old Disco back :)

Like a fool, a few years later, I bought a ni$$an pickup, which proceeded to fall in half - so that was me done with "modern".
 
Good Luck :)

I've no time for modern stuff - we had a FFRR a while ago that, brand new, packed up on the day we got it :eek: :rolleyes: ....

I had part exed my D1 commercial to get this POS, and after losing the will to live with a dealership that, er, weren't very good, bought my old Disco back :)

Like a fool, a few years later, I bought a ni$$an pickup, which proceeded to fall in half - so that was me done with "modern".

I’ve recently bought an Audi A6 2013 lovely car but always the feeling something will go wrong and cost me a fortune, I let the missus drive it and I stick to my works van :)

I’ve got the chance of a td5 d2 for £200 and In 2 minds whether to buy it as they do love problems 70% of the time
 
I'm a big fan of the Bilt Hamber stuff - from the cavity and underbody waxes, to their Deox range of rust removers ( Witchcraft :eek: )...

I'm also a fan of Dinitrol - and just used some of their clear wax on a repair I did on SWMBO's D1 about a month ago ... it's almost glass clear, and is working thus far :)

Funny how the "proper" corrosion prevention folks don't make underseal .....;)


A lot of people have said to use the raptor Bedliner for underseal but I think I’ll go for some epoxy mastic when pay day comes
 
@resto_d1 has had some good results with the poxy mastic so far and rates it.

I've hit the protection conundrum already and I'm toying with Waxoyl black once I've finished welding it all up.

I’ve waxoiled so many motors over the years and see the same results after a couple months but then up here the salt they put on the roads is mental for rot, I usually put a thick gear oil through it and that seems to help
 
I've hit the protection conundrum already and I'm toying with Waxoyl black once I've finished welding it all up.

I'd suggest Bilt Hamber Dynax underbody wax - it's not that much more expensive, and is, IME, a far superior product to the current Waxoyl ...

Waxoyl years ago was good - but not now IMHO - it appears almost drinkable by comparison o_O
 
I'd suggest Bilt Hamber Dynax underbody wax - it's not that much more expensive, and is, IME, a far superior product to the current Waxoyl ...

Waxoyl years ago was good - but not now IMHO - it appears almost drinkable by comparison o_O

Is the dynax straight to metal or do you need the primers and such like?
 
Is the dynax straight to metal or do you need the primers and such like?
Dynax goes on top of your final coat. That bilt hamber epoxy mastic is sh1t hot. So tough. Far harder to get off with a disc than anything else I've used. Comes at a cost though. You cant go wrong with bilt hamber. It was just costing me a bomb though so I went Bonda primer with glass reinforced corroloss on top. A few of us are using the bonda primer as it seems a bit like what red oxide used to be before ingredients got softened. Full bilt hamber treatment would be electrox zinc rich primer (used a fair bit on my chassis), epoxy mastic then dynax ub on top with dynax cavity inside.
 
Waxoyl is evil prehistoric crap..

Just floats on the corrosion and lets it eat away underneath, not to mention it gets in your hair and eyes when working underneath..

Bilt Hamber Dynax UC is good.
 
I’ve recently bought an Audi A6 2013 lovely car but always the feeling something will go wrong and cost me a fortune, I let the missus drive it and I stick to my works van :)

I’ve got the chance of a td5 d2 for £200 and In 2 minds whether to buy it as they do love problems 70% of the time

I did similar and kept Audi warranty. I'm sure I can hear start of tensioner rattle :eek:
 
Is the dynax straight to metal or do you need the primers and such like?

I use in both ways - and get similar good results :) Seems to stick to galv quite well anorl :)

Paint wise I tend to use Tractol - cos it's full of nasty chemicals which make the stuff stick :) .... and even proper masks with changeable filters are cheaper than keep doing the job again ..... and again ... :(

I'm just about to repaint our generator with Tractol .... after painting it with Valspar water based sh*t not that long ago .... it's washing orft in the rain FFS :rolleyes: - makes the prep easy though ..... o_O :eek: ......:rolleyes:
 
Have a nosy at the Dinitrol clear stuff I mentioned ..... if you want to see your shiny paintwork .... I find some piccies of SWMBO's shockers .... :confused:


So, SWMBO's Rear shockers ....:- OS shroud was rusty, as in rotten... but otherwise in good order ...Now, I know it's supposedly not "economic" to fix such a thing, BUT, I can do it, so I did..:p

This is what I started with:- ( was a bit,er, not very well ;) ) ....
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Rolled a new shroud out of 1.2mm Zintec, glued it all together wiv Mr TIG, ......

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Spray painted it with Tractol red, on top of etch primer, and re-fitted it with new bushes ... Then sprayed it all with Dinitrol 4010, which, granted hides the gloss - but still looks the dogs IMHO

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(even if the photo is cr*p :rolleyes: ) :D
 
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