Bankz's 110 Double Cab

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Been playing with the welder today! Made a step of sorts to help the shorter folk climb in.

Seems to have gone rather well. Came out pretty square and quite close to the drawning I did. Mitred each join with an angle grinder cut off mount.

Much easier when the gas is working :rolleyes:

Just need to get some 30x30x3mm square section to weld under the rock sliders for the step to slide into.

Obviously will be removed when offroad!

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Been playing with the welder today! Made a step of sorts to help the shorter folk climb in.

Seems to have gone rather well. Came out pretty square and quite close to the drawning I did. Mitred each join with an angle grinder cut off mount.

Much easier when the gas is working :rolleyes:

Just need to get some 30x30x3mm square section to weld under the rock sliders for the step to slide into.

Obviously will be removed when offroad!

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Now I got 2 questions about them steps. First you much be a short arse, as in midget size. Second how do you prevent those steps from getting ripped off when ground clearance is a issue?
 
Its not for me, ive no issues getting in but the mrs is 5ft2 and to make it easier for me mum n gran who are about the aame height.

Will have clips on the back so I can remove when ground clearance could be an issue. Obvs will be removed when off roading.

Also changeing the springs soon so the height will rise further.
 
My car leccy mate came round today and helped me sort out a few bits!

Heated rear screen is finally wired in! To an OEM switch by the heated front screen so looks rather neat.

Also moved the fog switch up to the MUD console with the other lights. That was more difficult but he sorted it :)

Thats 98% of all wireing done! Just lecch rear windows (one day :rolleyes:) and heated rear seats (looong way off!)

Tomorrows task will potentially be swapping the rear discs and sorting this damn intermitant ABS issue. I believe uts down to interferance on the right hand rear sensor.

250kg.runners also arrived to start building my slide out tray. Make it a little easier to load and unload the boot as well as giving me a larger work/cooking/utility bench

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Going to be made from 25 x 25 x 2.5mm mild steel box section with a 3mm ali top plate.
 
Finished my detachable side step. Didnt come out too bad!

Coated with
1 coat - Buzzweld Rust Enscapulator
1 coat CIO
2 Coats of textured FXLiner for extra grip

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Pull the ring pins out and step slides off. Nice and simple and helps the short asses and infrim get in

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Got some time off at the min so ive ordered all the materials needed for my sliding tray project. Hopefully arrive for the weekend or before.

Got it pretty solidly worked out and ran the plans by my engineer mate who made a few tweaks but all in all my design should work well.

Gives me just over 1m extension out the back should take 250kg at full extension. Whole unit is easily removed with 10 bolts if needed as well.

Total weight should be sub 20kg which isnt too bad.

Also adding in some tie down points (flush if i can work out how) and a few countersunk rivnuts so I can bolt my chopsaw down when needed.
 
Been a tad busy of late but keep running an eye over the latest mods look good and I shall be asking where you got the runners from as thats on the list.
 
:mad: Got another shock leaking. I am now done with Terrafirma parts.

One rear was leaking after 5k miles just under a year (luckily just inside the warrenty period!) Now got a front leaking too after 15k and 18 months.

The springs have sagged roughly an inch off the front and half inch off the back in 18months. Not to mention not a spec of paint left on them.

Poor show.

Soon as I can afford it will be going OME +2 "Medium Load" all round.
 
:mad: Got another shock leaking. I am now done with Terrafirma parts.

It's a shame, but I agree. TF seem to have lost the plot .... :(

I put new TF shocks on my D1 when I bought it, and then we bought SWMBO's D1, which came with newish BP (!) all round ..... it pains me to say it, but the BP give a better ride :eek: .... which is why, when one of the shrouds rotted ( winter salt?) I made and fitted a new shroud o_O

Said TF shocks are now rustier than a rusty thing :rolleyes: , and when I CBA, I'll replace them ..... whether I can face the stigma of buying new BP shocks remains to be seen :eek: ..... :D
 
Exactly. Insult to injury when they say "48hour salt spray testing" bolloc ks.
All that said the ride is actually very very good.

IMO TF are great, IF you don't do @bankz5152 interstellar missions, manage to get yer defender airborne with all 4 wheels off the ground, and use it as a part time ballast delivery vehicle at work everyday. :p:p:p:p

PS with you 100% on the OME, I spent 3 months touring the east coast of oz top to bottom helped my mate fit OME on the truck before we set off, they are seriously amazing. oh yea and they are very heavy! o_O
 
IMO TF are great, IF you don't do @bankz5152 interstellar missions, manage to get yer defender airborne with all 4 wheels off the ground, and use it as a part time ballast delivery vehicle at work everyday. :p:p:p:p

Fair enough - but I haven't done any off roading to the extent of Bankz5152 ... and my TF shocks are rusting merrily, and have a sub standard ride compared with SWMBO's BP ones :eek:

Still springs sagging in less than 2 years!

Tis poor is that :( My OEM springs have been on 4 years, and about 22K miles - haven't settled appreciably, nor gone mega rusty o_O
 
Fair enough - but I haven't done any off roading to the extent of Bankz5152 ... and my TF shocks are rusting merrily, and have a sub standard ride compared with SWMBO's BP ones :eek:



Tis poor is that :( My OEM springs have been on 4 years, and about 22K miles - haven't settled appreciably, nor gone mega rusty o_O

Tis hilarious that OEM shocks can be picked up for £11 each.....
My TF's are rusty as fook, maybe 3 yrs old but not leaking ....yet!
Might just get OEM and a can of spray paint......
 
Nice quick lil mod. In all my ownership of Defenders never ever had a decent radio signal! Not sure why...

£20 off ebay for this dual FM/DAB unit. Earthed direct to the battery and has its own 12v feed tapped in via the headunits own proper 12v feed (not the blue signal wire, not enough power)

Hey presto! Perfect DAB and FM signal for a fraction of the cost of the Nakatenga one (which im pretty sure is identical :rolleyes: but for £90 :eek:)

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