Another L322, another air suspension problem

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m4rky8oy

Member
Posts
10
Location
Portugal
Hi and thanks for accepting me on the forum.

So, I have a 2004 Range Rover Vogue 3.0L. I bought it in October and I drove it from the UK to Portugal and it didnt miss a beat. It was fantastic. Now it starts! I had a slow puncture in my passenger side rear tyre so I stopped at a garage and put some air in it. When I got back in the car I got Air Suspension inactive message. Thats strange I thought, so I popped into a garage and he plugged it in and reset the suspension. I left there thinking no more of it.

That evening I was sitting outside my parents house waiting for them so I decided to lower the car and raise it, however, when I put into maximum height, it just seemed to keep going on the front drivers side, and the bag literally just blew up. I was absolutely gobsmacked.

I then purchased new front struts and new height sensors, and fitted them myself. I actually replaced the droplinks on each side too because they looked nasty. I also disconnected the battery while working on it.

Once everything is fitted I kept the wheels off the ground and let the bags refill. Once that was done I put the car back on the ground and started it up. I put the car in standard height mode but when it was done, the car was sitting about 100mm higher on the front drivers side than on the passenger side.

I thought it needed recalibrating, so I took it to my local garage and he plugged his machine in, deflated the system and started to raise the car up. All looking good he went into offroad height and the passenger side was a bit slow to rise and then, bang! the driver side has gone off the rails again and blown up.

When it does blow up, it leaves no errors and the suspension stays active. I am at a loss with this now and im seriously considering putting it on coils. But, in one last attempt to put it all right, I am hoping someone will come up with an answer.

Thanks for taking the time to read through my problem
 
Welcome to the loonybin,
That is a bit worrying.
It is as if the sensor doesn't tell the ECU it's at the limit..
Seem as though your a bit handy with it, get a multi meter and unplug both the left and right front sensors. Get your meter connected up and start with the sensor arm at the bottom of its stroke and watch carefully whilst you move the arm up to the top of its stroke and observe the readings. You should be able to read the resistance and compare the two. That should rule out a duff sensor. Hopefully you'll have a reason for its damaging behaviour.;)
 
Welcome to the loonybin,
That is a bit worrying.
It is as if the sensor doesn't tell the ECU it's at the limit..
Seem as though your a bit handy with it, get a multi meter and unplug both the left and right front sensors. Get your meter connected up and start with the sensor arm at the bottom of its stroke and watch carefully whilst you move the arm up to the top of its stroke and observe the readings. You should be able to read the resistance and compare the two. That should rule out a duff sensor. Hopefully you'll have a reason for its damaging behaviour.;)

Thanks for the reply. I am ok when it comes to nuts and bolts but I haven't got a clue with electrics. I do have a multimeter though so I would be greatful if you could tell me how I use it to test the sensors.

I have the icarsoft LR V2.0 diagnostic machine (I wish I got the Allcomms). When I plug it in and look at ride height offsets, I get the following
IMG_20190322_162557.jpg

What does it mean as it's obviously way out.

Once again thanks for taking the time to repky
 
Ok, so.. if you move the car up and down using the suspension height button do all the readings change accordingly?


It does look like the driver side front is reading 145mm lower to the passenger side.

If that's the case when you go to maximum height the ECU thinks the drivers side is always lower.
This could explain why the drivers side is continuing to achieve its target/maximum height...

We need an l322 bod to help you to set up or advise at least in doing the height recalibration..
Hopefully just the sensor is out??
@Saint.V8
Who else please peeps!!
 
Ok, so.. if you move the car up and down using the suspension height button do all the readings change accordingly?


It does look like the driver side front is reading 145mm lower to the passenger side.

If that's the case when you go to maximum height the ECU thinks the drivers side is always lower.
This could explain why the drivers side is continuing to achieve its target/maximum height...

We need an l322 bod to help you to set up or advise at least in doing the height recalibration..
Hopefully just the sensor is out??
@Saint.V8
Who else please peeps!!

That picture was taken as it sits. With a blown up airbag and the front down on the stops. So something is lying
 
I have checked and rechecked the sensors. They are brand new on both sides. Them readings are the same as they were before I replaced the sensors.

I'm beginning to think it's the fault of the guy who I took it to.

Is it possible to set height values with a Hawkeye Pro?
 
When the height sensors were changed was the system recalibrated?

And I believe Hawkeye doesnt do recalibration.

I took it to get recalibrated and it was then that it blew up. I noticed he was using a Hawkeye Pro to do the calibration. It was only when I got home and tried to find the procedure using the Hawkeye that I started to realise you can't do it with a Hawkeye.

I would like someone to confirm this though
 
I took it to get recalibrated and it was then that it blew up. I noticed he was using a Hawkeye Pro to do the calibration. It was only when I got home and tried to find the procedure using the Hawkeye that I started to realise you can't do it with a Hawkeye.

I would like someone to confirm this though

I might be stating the obvious BUT rather than ' a very experienced and knowledgeable guru from landyzone, says so', whose word we all believe but a garage might want more. Wouldn't going to the hawkeye pro user manual be the best place to get confirmation?
 
The Hawkeye Total (which is the updated Pro) doesn't do EAS Programming....

And this is from the Hawkeye Pro manual....

upload_2019-3-24_12-13-56.png


So as I say, it doesn't do EAS calibration from what I can see.....

EDIT: Here are the manuals ........
 

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The Hawkeye Total (which is the updated Pro) doesn't do EAS Programming....

And this is from the Hawkeye Pro manual....

View attachment 173315

So as I say, it doesn't do EAS calibration from what I can see.....

EDIT: Here are the manuals ........
Thanks, I did read these that is how I come to suspect it was the mechanics fault in the first place.

Remember I live in Portugal and RR hasn't really been here that long so there aren't many people with experience of them. Translations can be difficult too sometimes especially when it comes to vehicles. A spanner here is called an English key lol.

I wouldn't even take it to a main dealer here because I suspect they have never worked on an old L322. You see the odd one here and a few P38s but mainly they are 2010 and newer.

So apart from the internet and you guys I'm a bit on my own.

It does appear that all it needed was proper calibrating and I shall get myself an all Comms.
 
Thanks, I did read these that is how I come to suspect it was the mechanics fault in the first place.

Remember I live in Portugal and RR hasn't really been here that long so there aren't many people with experience of them. Translations can be difficult too sometimes especially when it comes to vehicles. A spanner here is called an English key lol.

I wouldn't even take it to a main dealer here because I suspect they have never worked on an old L322. You see the odd one here and a few P38s but mainly they are 2010 and newer.

So apart from the internet and you guys I'm a bit on my own.

It does appear that all it needed was proper calibrating and I shall get myself an all Comms.
As I said and the guru known as Ant has confirmed, the manual has the answer. Not sure what that has to do with being in Portugal though? (Colour me confused ;) ) The information is freely available through an internet search :D
Now that is settled, good luck and enjoy
 
As I said and the guru known as Ant has confirmed, the manual has the answer. Not sure what that has to do with being in Portugal though? (Colour me confused ;) ) The information is freely available through an internet search :D
Now that is settled, good luck and enjoy

Thanks, like I said I did read. I just wanted someone who actually has the device to confirm what I already read. I might have missed an update or something.
My point about being in Portugal is, that I wasn't going to have a difficult conversation with the mechanic and come away from there none the wiser. I bet you can drive less than 25 miles to someone who might help you. I'd have to drive 300 Kms and then because of translations it would be difficult to tell them the problem.

So I have to rely on people in these forums to help when I get stuck.

Thanks again. Just ordered my Allcomms. Now to study the manual
 
Thanks, like I said I did read. I just wanted someone who actually has the device to confirm what I already read. I might have missed an update or something.
My point about being in Portugal is, that I wasn't going to have a difficult conversation with the mechanic and come away from there none the wiser. I bet you can drive less than 25 miles to someone who might help you. I'd have to drive 300 Kms and then because of translations it would be difficult to tell them the problem.

So I have to rely on people in these forums to help when I get stuck.

Thanks again. Just ordered my Allcomms. Now to study the manual
Ah , right now I get the Portugal thing. I thought you were still referring to the confirmation bit.
Don't be so sure about me having to drive less than 25 miles. It's a hell of an assumption to make about someone whose location is Scotland. Depending on the weather, it can sometimes take days , or even a couple of weeks, for me to be able to get to my friendly independant specialist.
 
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