300tdi conrod bush wear what’s acceptable?

Currently rebuilding an engine to replace the one in my defender. Checking the Conrods for wear but having not heard this engine run before or being able to find anything meaningful in the workshop manual other than it referencing a “ sliding fit “ I’m wondering if there is a way to measure the wear. I’m getting a ever so slight bit of play with the wrist pin in the up and down direction and a little less so side to side.

its worn then ,sliding fit means no play , and because its going oval, obviously up down is going to be were the wears occurs with a gudgeon pin bush

Thankyou James. All 4 are pretty much the same. Have seen some remanufactured/new... can not quite remember... advertised with the bushings already reamed to size or replace the bushings and machine on the ones i already have.

Are these bushes easy enough to size once fitted? Just wondering if my local engine shop will be up to it.

just get new bushes gen not pattern

A press and a good quality sharp adjustable reamer is what we always used. Don't forget to measure the pin for wear and replace if any difference in diameter between where it runs on bearing and where it should be a tight fit in piston. A good machinist or engine specialist should be able to do it for a few quid.

^ I did play with the thought of using an adjustable reamer on a new bearing until I got a just right fit. Earlier I measured ( in a totally un-scientific way I hasten to add! ) using feeler gauges a gap of somewhere between 0.02mm and definitely under 0.03mm between pin and bush. I think this is somewhere around 1/1000 of an inch in old money.

I think it is far too much. It should just slide in bush without force. I don't have a figure but the TD5 manual gives a min and max diameter for budge on pin and the tolerance is 0.005 mm this from manual for td5

Bloody spell check gudgeon pin is wot it stud shay

Drifting onwards a little from my first post but not thinking this is worth a new thread of its own.

Main bearing cap number 1. Has its own locating dowel on one side. Much shorter than the other dowels which are located in the block. Is this correct?

Just a little bump to see if anyone viewing this new can answer the above. Parts diagram shows 10 x 501593 locating pin. I have 9 fitted in block and a stump of one possibly fitted in no.1 main cap? It must of run like this and seems to locate ok so if not as lr intended would this be likely to cause a problem?

Alfieslandy said:

Just a little bump to see if anyone viewing this new can answer the above. Parts diagram shows 10 x 501593 locating pin. I have 9 fitted in block and a stump of one possibly fitted in no.1 main cap? It must of run like this and seems to locate ok so if not as lr intended would this be likely to cause a problem?

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you would be better having all 10 dowels

Thank you James. A little perplexing to think of how this has happened? And little unsure of how best to go about removing the dowel from the main cap as there is not a great amount of it showing. Might have to resort to drilling using a pillar drill , tapping and some sort of bolt , slide hammer arrangement at the worst.

It’s out!

Alfieslandy said:

It’s out!

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good news ,youll have peace of mind now when cranks refitted