Loss of power to dash & no ignition

Batch237 said:

Excellent - thanks. Yes, all the documents and links that you and this forum have given me have been top draw.
I think the thing that is baffling me is why is C0099-6 going to 0v when the ignition is turned on? Suppose it’s going to ground or something??????
I have ordered an ignition switch, so will let you know the result when I have fitted it. Thanks again.

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It's not going to 0V, it's going open circuit, what you have is a high resistance in the circuit, probably the switch contacts.

Ok thanks - was confused as this is the supply side of the circuit. Am very grateful for everyone’s advice.

I think you can take the switch apart, cleaning probably wouldn’t help but might make it worse. Did you check what voltage you are getting to the other fuses that feed the instrument panel . You can also bypass the ignition switch to see if that fixes your issue before paying out for a switch

Thanks, C0099-6 was the only slight voltage drop.
Good call, will do that - correct me if I am wrong;
Key in ignition for the immobiliser - with plug disconnected.
Fly lead from C0099-9 & C0099-2 to bypass ignition.
Fly lead from C0099-5 touch to C0099-8 to crank.

Is this correct?

Also, given this is a Diesel engine, is there a sequence to kill the engine?
What amp fly lead?
Thanks again.

I wouldn’t actually go to the crank stage, that’s a few amps but if the ignition switch is faulty you can bridge it to give you dash illumination .
Have you checked feed to the ECU box under the bonnet where your glow plug relay is ?

No I haven’t, how would you suggest I do that?

Ok, I am going to post the link to the thread for a third time
Are you familiar with the phrase ‘ you can lead a horse to water but you can’t make it drink’ ? Or as Stan Laurel said ‘you can lead a horse to water but your pencil must be lead ‘ .

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/turns-over-not-starting.334888/page-3
You have a large black box on the front left hand side of the engine bay, in there are your glow plug relay, engine management ECU and other brains but from your wiring diagrams you will see there are a few systems powered by the fusible links behind your battery so you can test those are getting power.
Have a read through that link from start to finish as the link takes you straight to page 3.
It should help you determine if your ignition switch or wiring or something else is the issue.

At 1048pm on a Saturday evening this horse was not drinking water, and it would not matter if I had kryptonite in my pencil....
Am now at the trough...

Fair one, let us know how you get on.
I think in that thread there is a like to a bmw forum where they had a similar issue and stripped the ignition switch down, not entirely sure as there have been so many threads recently with similar issues

Ok, a result in the positive direction. Checked all feeds into the engine bay fuse box from link 2 - all good.
Made a fly lead from C0099-9/C0099-9 to C0099-6 to bypass the ignition switch. Still no power. C0099-6 still going from 12v to 0v when switch is turned to pos 1&2 where it should remain 12v.
Decided to snip ignition feed wire at fuse box side and ignition side and put a temp link in using my jump lead. Turn the ignition hey presto we had power!!!!!
Until I decided to crank........ I know..... you told me..... I heard the first tooth of the starter engage, then a little pop and lost all power.
Now going to put a permanent fix on the ignition feed and start checking fuses....

WE ARE DONE!!!!!

Yee Haa! My L322 now has a heart beat! holidaychicken and everyone else who gave advice, thanks for your help and patience.

Broken ignition feed from fuse 53 being the issue.

Nice one, it’s strange that you had 12 volts at the ignition switch on C0099-6 which is fed by fuse 53 and fuse 53 was live both sides but then as you say it’s odd that you lost voltage to 9-6 when you turned the ignition. I’m wondering why the wire between fuse 53 and 9-6 has died.
If you are happy then I’m happy , apologies if I came across as being short, I know how confusing these vehicles can be, especially when it comes to the electrics.
When you were checking voltages were you taking your Earth from the chassis somewhere ?

holidaychicken said:

Nice one, it’s strange that you had 12 volts at the ignition switch on C0099-6 which is fed by fuse 53 and fuse 53 was live both sides but then as you say it’s odd that you lost voltage to 9-6 when you turned the ignition. I’m wondering why the wire between fuse 53 and 9-6 has died.
If you are happy then I’m happy , apologies if I came across as being short, I know how confusing these vehicles can be, especially when it comes to the electrics.
When you were checking voltages were you taking your Earth from the chassis somewhere ?

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I have seen wires (not on the L322) fail where the termination is crimped on the end. Bad crimping with too much pressure can cut strands leading to eventual failure.

None taken - I am more than happy - thank you! I varied between earthing point on passenger side A frame and earth wire of cigar lighter.
I have quite enjoyed this journey, all in all the fix has cost me £8 for some 50amp wire
datatek - you mentioned earlier on that C0099-6 could be picking up a voltage from another circuit, I think now that this may of possibly been the case?

Batch237 said:

None taken - I am more than happy - thank you! I varied between earthing point on passenger side A frame and earth wire of cigar lighter.
I have quite enjoyed this journey, all in all the fix has cost me £8 for some 50amp wire
datatek - you mentioned earlier on that C0099-6 could be picking up a voltage from another circuit, I think now that this may of possibly been the case?

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I certainly did not say that, I said:- It's not going to 0V, it's going open circuit, what you have is a high resistance in the circuit, probably the switch contacts. Feed 12 volts via a 1 meg ohm resistor and with no load you will have 12 volts, put a little load in the circuit and you will have 0 volts.
In the event you found a broken wire which is what was giving the high resistance circuit, so well done you

Datatek said:

You could check the diagrams to see if the middle red wire is supposed to be live, DVM's are very sensitive and will show voltage from leakage and back circuits when in reality the wire is dead.

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Soz - my miss interpretation- every day is a school day Thank you

@Datatek Fuse 53 feeds fuse 5 via the ignition switch and fuse 5 provides the alternator with a 12 volt supply, if I am understanding it correctly, with no load the 12 volts reach the ignition switch, when the load is applied from the alternator the broken wire couldn't handle it and dropped to zero volts ?
Whatever the answer i'm glad it's fixed.

At the end of the day, the fault was found due to the support of you guys and this forum. I can honestly say I would not have known where to start or what to have done next. I really appreciate all of the help you have given. Take a bow gents! Thank you.

No worries, next time it might be you helping somebody else, I have said it many times, the greatest pleasure I have had from owning mine has come from finally finding a fault and fixing it.

holidaychicken said:

No worries, next time it might be you helping somebody else, I have said it many times, the greatest pleasure I have had from owning mine has come from finally finding a fault and fixing it.

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It certainly gives you a lot of pleasure.