Help! Defender brakes

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

gary brion

Active Member
Posts
167
Location
piddington bucks
Help needed please, my mot is in the morning
Just replaced front pads and adjusted rear shoes all went well, Now there has for a while been
a bit of travel on the pedal always better with a second pump,
After we finished the job could not get the system to bleed up, pedal right to the floor
rushed out and changed the master, and still going to the floor...Any help really appreciated thanks
Its a 110 pre defender rear drums and front discs by the way.
 
Master Cylinder rod may need adjusting. Also since you can not bleed, undo the feed lines to the brakes on the master and see if fluid comes out. If it does not flow the master piston may have stuck down. Happens with a new unit sometimes because it is "dry".
When bleeding I have found the wait and see [gravity] method is best,just fill resevoir and open a brake nipple and wait for bubble free fluid to come out. Start at the furthest one from the master.Should only take a couple of mins per brake.Keep res full.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 8ha
Master Cylinder rod may need adjusting. Also since you can not bleed, undo the feed lines to the brakes on the master and see if fluid comes out. If it does not flow the master piston may have stuck down. Happens with a new unit sometimes because it is "dry".
When bleeding I have found the wait and see [gravity] method is best,just fill resevoir and open a brake nipple and wait for bubble free fluid to come out. Start at the furthest one from the master. Should only take a couple of mins per brake.Keep res full.
Thanks for that, should have said, we have good pressure at each nipple, fluid flying down the tube
once nipples are then closed back to the pedal to the carpet
 
Well tried that and still the same, just big constant clods of air coming down the clear tube
tried reverse bleeding as well, thinking now of getting one of those ezeblead kits
 
Well tried that and still the same, just big constant clods of air coming down the clear tube
tried reverse bleeding as well, thinking now of getting one of those ezeblead kits

air can pass by the nipple threads giving the illusion of air in the system when using suction to pull fluid through.
 
Ok Guys tried gravity bleeding and pressurized bleeding, adjusted master cylinder rod travel
the only thing I am thinking is the rear shoes will not adjust up properly, they tighten a bit, not enough to lock the hubs
and just drops off, the shoes themselves are low, so will replace them in the morning..Would these rear brake
issues make for the pedal going to the floor? Ta.
 
Ok Guys tried gravity bleeding and pressurized bleeding, adjusted master cylinder rod travel
the only thing I am thinking is the rear shoes will not adjust up properly, they tighten a bit, not enough to lock the hubs
and just drops off, the shoes themselves are low, so will replace them in the morning..Would these rear brake
issues make for the pedal going to the floor? Ta.
you need to ensure that the pole on the shoe lines up with the center of the snail cam ,they can be fitted wrong so you dont get full travel from the adjuster
 
As James says it's easy to fit the shoes wrong, if they are rolling off the cam then that's your problem unless the cams are worn too bad but that's unlikely.
The shoes look the same but they are not!
If you clamp off the rear Flexi you should get a firm pedal confirming the rear brake fault.
 
Back
Top