Loss of power to dash & no ignition

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Batch237

Member
Posts
37
Location
Gloucestershire
Range Rover L322 3.0 TD6 Vogue 2002

Battery fully charged and in good working order.
symptoms- loss of power to dashboard, centre consol and ignition.
All other electrical items work.
I have just stripped the console down and put a tester across fuses 18, 25 & 53 and across the ignition switch. Fuses all good, on the back of my ignition switch I have 2x red wires , 1xpurple/black, 1xyellow black and 1xgreen.

Both red wires are live when the ignition is off, turn it to position 1&2 and the middle red wire looses all voltage, outer red wire remains at normal voltage , no other wires turn live.

My question is, does this sound like a faulty ignition switch? Or do I need to start looking down the fusebox route?

Your help is very much appreciated

Thanks,

Batch.
 
go the easy route first .. check or replace or temp swap over one by one all fuses and relays applicable to ignition unit ,,, or put on diagnostics , also have a good look at main fuse box and all its connectors , all above is process of elimination and doesn't cost any thing !!!! ask around on rescue see if anybody near you with diagnostics , you never know !!!! then once all above done start looking at ignition switch im not trying to teach you to suck eggs but these beast;s and p38 are a law unto them selves , I had a problem without knowing that one of relays had an intermittent fault inside the relay !!!! no amount of testing smelling diagnostics etc etc etc could find the fault , after 11months 7 lots of diagnostics etc etc by an error we found it swapped relay completely and was job done ,, to explain, simple continuity tests don't always show 1st time !!!!! regards mozz ,,,,,,, moral of story check then check again then check again !!!!!
 
You could check the diagrams to see if the middle red wire is supposed to be live, DVM's are very sensitive and will show voltage from leakage and back circuits when in reality the wire is dead.
Thanks, where’s the best place to get a circuit diagram from - would you recommend buying RAVE??
 
go the easy route first .. check or replace or temp swap over one by one all fuses and relays applicable to ignition unit ,,, or put on diagnostics , also have a good look at main fuse box and all its connectors , all above is process of elimination and doesn't cost any thing !!!! ask around on rescue see if anybody near you with diagnostics , you never know !!!! then once all above done start looking at ignition switch im not trying to teach you to suck eggs but these beast;s and p38 are a law unto them selves , I had a problem without knowing that one of relays had an intermittent fault inside the relay !!!! no amount of testing smelling diagnostics etc etc etc could find the fault , after 11months 7 lots of diagnostics etc etc by an error we found it swapped relay completely and was job done ,, to explain, simple continuity tests don't always show 1st time !!!!! regards mozz ,,,,,,, moral of story check then check again then check again !!!!!
Thanks Mozz, I have a couple of days off next week, will have a look at checking fuses and relays. Will let you know how I get on. Could do with someone knowing what ignition wires should be live at what stage, will probably save time in chasing back??
 
If they are not part of main rave then you can download circuit diagrams here

http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/wp-...-circuit-diagrams-range-rover-new-uk-2001.pdf

And you want the electrical library as well if that isn't in the drop box account that @Wazzajnr very kindly set up

http://duud.ee/LR-manualid/Range_Rover_Electronic_Library_L322.pdf
This is brilliant thank you, have just downloaded these two. Am hoping this will save me some time. And thank you @Wazzajnr
 
@holidaychicken thanks for those, I've added them to the Dropbox link under "later electrical info"
When I get chance to have a proper look, I will categorise them as something more obvious.
 
They are very useful couple of manuals once you start recognising the connector numbers in the wiring diagrams cross reference to the connector photos and pin layout diagrams. The 3rd manual that also relates in the system description and operation manual which describes very nicely the sequence of events that the electronics are performing . Wiring diagrams used to put me off because they look really complicated but once you start recognising the battery and fuse symbols you can follow the path through quite easily after reading the system description manual. Land Rover make some fairly unreliable vehicles at times but the Rave Manual is the best I have ever used so at least they have tried to help you fix it yourself.
:)
 
Hi all,
Just stripped the fuse box down in the passenger side.connection coo99-6 in the diagram is live until the ignition key is turned, then it goes dead. Needless to say there is still no power to crank. Any suggestions?
5B1FC6A4-6A81-42FA-83F0-0C2F939D7713.png
 

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Fuse 53 should be a permanent live which feeds C0099-6 and should not be affected by the ignition switch as it is on the permanent live side the same as the 60 amp link 2 which i believe is behind the battery on the bulkhead of the TD6. These are both fed by C0632-1 which is the permanent live from the battery.
Before we go further, can you confirm that fuse 53 is live under all conditions ?
 
Thanks for the reply. I have just gone out with my head torch and checked, fuse 53 is live, and also live on ignition 1, 2 & crank...

I have also today disconnected the ignition plug from the switch and tested continuity of pins (of the switch) C0099-6 - C0099-9 and C0099-6 - C0099-2. Both circuits are closed upon ignition positions 1,2 & crank.

#HeadScratching...
 
I can’t see C0099-2 on your diagram and don’t have the manual with me.

Can you check if fuse 5 has full 12+ volts with the ignition on as in position 2 but not cranking please, once you have connected the ignition switch back up of course ?

Can you identify and check that C0099-5 at the ignition switch that is fed from link 2 / C0591-0 is a permanent 12+ volts ?

Continuity doesn’t mean that enough volts / current is passing across the switch as they begin to fail and the contact will register as closed with the tiny voltage a multimeter uses to confirm a circuit. The TD6 I looked at gave a reading of around 2-5 volts but no dash lights or cranking.
 
Last edited:
Battery now on charge to maintain maximum voltage for testing tomorrow...
Sorry wrong diagram sent..but same connections identified.
fuse 5 is zero voltage in pos 1 & 2. C0099-5 is 12.51v. C0099-6 is 11.99v... when ignition is off, when moved to pos 1 or 2, voltage drops to 0v. Remove fuse 53 and the voltage at C0099-6 drops to 0.65v from 11.99v...
Thanks again for your time.
699500BF-B8AB-409D-BFEC-06038EB6F86B.png
 
You should have 12 volts on fuse 5 when the ignition is on, that to me alone points to ignition switch as it is a simple feed from the battery then through the ignition switch and on to fuse 5, as long as fuse 5 is dead both sides of the fuse, as in the fuse is not blown, then I would say ignition switch.
have a read of this which is from one of the manual links i sent.
td6.jpg

have you read through this link from my post above, it has the diagram and you can follow the arrows through for fuse 5 and also explains what other fuses to check including the fuse that is fed by the ignition switch and goes to the instrument panel.

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/turns-over-not-starting.334888/page-3
 
Excellent - thanks. Yes, all the documents and links that you and this forum have given me have been top draw.
I think the thing that is baffling me is why is C0099-6 going to 0v when the ignition is turned on? Suppose it’s going to ground or something??????
I have ordered an ignition switch, so will let you know the result when I have fitted it. Thanks again.
 
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