Struggling to remove rear flexible brake hoses on discovery 1 1998

Morning everyone, I hope some one can help me? I'm in process of raising my discovery 1 es v8 body shell by two inches, I've had help from some great people on here when I have a glitch and I thank them for their help.
I've come to change the rear flexible brake hoses and yes you've guessed it aghhhhhh 20 yr old corrosion has them solid . It's where the steel lines go to flexible and are bolted to chassis on a plate. I'm worried that forcing it will twist and break the steel line. Any one had this issue before and managed not to knacker the steel lines.
I've used penetrative oil (not wd40) and I'm now on thinking of heat
PLEASE CAN YOU HELP
thanks
Dave

No magic cure i'm afraid, you are already working along the correct lines. Just keep watching the steel pipe as you apply pressure to make sure it isn't twisting. A good couple of knocks on the nut with a hammer may assist. If you can't get them apart without it starting to twist then yes try heat. If that doesn't work it's new lines i'm afraid.

Had this on my D2, managed to undo them without ruining the pipes after much struggle and only by using this https://uk.farnell.com/loctite/8040-400ml/freeze-release-spray-8040-400ml/dp/1769535 and flare nut wrench

Cheers intercecptor, I hope they don't twist , is it best to heat the whole join?

Thanks sierrafery, did it take whole can or more?
It's the same on every landy I've owned ,the front end not to bad to do, but the rears aghhhhhhhhh

As Sierrafery says - cold can be just as good ... I've used the same stuff and it is bleddy brilliant.... Be careful with heat cos it could (will) boil the brake fluid ....

I'd add that, if you still have the original steel lines on a 21 year old D1 - then it's time for them to go in the bin voluntarily, I.E. now, rather than wait for the upcoming forced change due to MOT failure ... or actual brake line failure

I used it only on the rears and it still has some juice in it ...IMO it should be enough for all

Gut it out from the drivers side floor support bracket to the boot floor and then down to the calipers and replace the lot.

3/16ths cunifer and all brake fittings are M10X1mm T piece readily and cheaply available.

Disco1BFG said:

As Sierrafery says -
I'd add that, if you still have the original steel lines on a 21 year old D1 - then it's time for them to go in the bin voluntarily, I.E. now, rather than wait for the upcoming forced change due to MOT failure ... or actual brake line failure

Click to expand...

Definitely agree with that, good shout.

Disco1BFG said:

I'd add that, if you still have the original steel lines on a 21 year old D1 - then it's time for them to go in the bin voluntarily, I.E. now, rather than wait for the upcoming forced change due to MOT failure ... or actual brake line failure

Click to expand...

Glad to say my disco brake lines don’t have any issues 21years on, thanks to the good old Waxoyl protection.
But I’ve seen the issue with my RR after just 10 years, that’s why I sold it before in be came a MOT failure.