Time to Start Doing a Few Jobs

Hi all, after having my beloved 1.8 for a while i now need to start addressing a few things that have needed doing since ive had it, but as usual work gets in the way.

On a sidenote i wsh id have got a fl years ago. Ive had everything from a pajero to a ford explorer (no laughing at the back) and am loving this over all of them. And am also loving the K series. Yes i know its the but of peoples comments but its better than a lot of engines out there. Look at BMWs M43 lump that was their mainstay 4 pot and that appeared tp be made of swiss cheese!




OK, list of probs.

1. I think i have the dreaded VCU issues. It was like this when i got it. Drives fine, no probs, noises, issues. However, when i make a right turn sometimes there is a faint knocking noise coming from what appears to be in the middle just behind the front seats. When i make a left turrn however, its very noticable, and sometimes quite loud. It appears to only do this however when it is under load from the engine. Do a left turn with the clutch engaged, and especially when accelerating, it makes the knocking noise, dip the clutch and make the same turn however, and nothing. Looking towards the experiance of people on this forum, does this sound like the VCU?

If so, would replacing the mounts solve the prob or am i looking at replacing the VCU itself?

2. No reversing lights or reverse parking sensors. No idea why on this one!

3. Water in the tool well in the boot. Anyone manage to work out where it comes in yet?

Hope all are well.

Phil

Re knocking and VCU, have you had a read of this...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/

Definitely worth checking the VCU & tyres if you don't want your transmission to implode!

Its difficult to know where knocks come from some times. The usual culprits for transmission type knocks are the mounts for the rear diff and support bearings for the VCU. These should always be replaced with quality parts or else they fail very quickly. They may fail by themselves, but usually the VCU being overly tights gives them a helping hand and you're lucky if this is the case that it hasn't taken out the IRD and/or rear diff.

What ever, make sure the VCU & tyres are good first.

Reverse lights could be the reverse switch on the gearbox. I'm not sure exactly how this all works (and haven't the foggiest on the reverse sensors), but you could try enabling HDC and see if it activates when putting it in reverse.

Water in the boot could be water getting in on the rear door window surround (have a look for water tracking marks) or I also believe the actual well (fish tank) can have a poor seal with the boot floor letting water in and can need silicone sealing.

Thanks for the info and the link.

I was going to get replacement hangers etc, in May and repalce them anyway as anything with a "bush" as such is a service part but had never thought to check either the tyres or the pressures. And yes, i do have an odd tyre. Got 3 Good Years and the near side rear is something ive never heard of!

Two more questions. What should the psi be on these cars and you mention the IRD being knackered. How would you know if it was???

Phil

GrumpyGel said:

Re knocking and VCU, have you had a read of this...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/

.

Water in the boot could be water getting in on the rear door window surround (have a look for water tracking marks) or I also believe the actual well (fish tank) can have a poor seal with the boot floor letting water in and can need silicone sealing.

Click to expand...

That was the source of water in my Cubby hole.
I removed the carpet and siliconed around the edges and it fixed mine. That was a couple of years ago and no leaks since.

I'm going through same jobs as You and on the point of the VCU could I suggest if You think it may be the cause of the knock You remove the entire rear propshaft and VCU until You get everything checked out better to be 2 wheel drive than smash the IRD. I am going to send mine off for test/repair to BELL ENGINEERING when mine comes off, I have time as mine is not on the road.
The water in the tool box could be the rear door seal, the window position, the fuel tank filler seal, the seam, and in my case there was no water shedder polythene under the door card and a displaced grommet behind the spare wheel mounting.When I worked for a Land rover dealer years ago we spent a lot of time removing the entire door seals, plastic trims etc etc to cure leaks usually tested by removing the carpet in the boot removing plastic side panels and having a mate with a garden hose outside watering the roof with You inside with a torch looking for leaks. I noticed my leak after I jet washed the entire vehicle so knew it wasn't wash up from underneath overall a summertime job.
My parking sensors dont work either and the control unit is behind the left plastic panel in the boot and I have yet to investigate this it may have been disconnected when the tow bar was fitted.I got a RAVE cd download workshop manual off E bay and it's as good as the ones used in Land rover workshops and if Your a nerd like me its great bedtime reading this shows the parking sensors wiring and control unit in detail. Great pics by the way I like the colour of the interior I wanted a TD4 with that colour but settled for a half leather black with usual seat wear etc one of my many jobs to do lol.

Thanks for the info and reply. as for the pics, i am being laxy here as they are the pics from the dealers site that i bought the car from. Found it on ebay from a dealer in Birmingham, and he couldnt have been more accomodating, even giving me a years MOT with it.

A few more seeing you like em!








..and so far the only pic ive taken. Filthy after the snow..



Im going to check my tyre pressures in the morning, once i find out what they are supposed to be! and i was considering ordering a replacement VCU from Bell Engineering or similar in a few months. But yes, i might remove the prop until then to save damaging anything.

As you can see from the pics, i have a few other things to do. When i bought it the drivers side wing mirror was damaged, but a replacement was included with it, and the "colouring" has worn off of the top if the steering wheel. Looks weird and was wondering how to fix this without replacing the whole wheel! I am thinking that maybe leather paint might do the trick. Anyone got any ideas???

Have put my own audio in it together with adaptor for steering wheel controls, minus my amp, which is still in my shed until i solve the water in the boot problem. The only other issue is (and this i expected) a sagging roof liner! The WHOLE thing. This was caused by the dealer as he valeted and steam cleaned the interior and the only bits of roof lining that are not hanging down are the bits held in place by fittings. I have had a problem finding a replacement as there are a few new ones on ebay, etc. The problem ive had with the roof lining is finding someone who is prepared to ship it, using the excuse that they are too fragile to send. RimmerBros have them in stock and will ship but they are about three times the cost of some of the others, so might (again, waiting for the weather to get better, and time off), get some replacement roof lining fabric and repair it. Have looked at the youtube stuff on it and a repair looks as good as a replacement!

Anyone got any idea what the tyre pressures should be as just a quick glance at my tyres and it looks like they are a different pressures!!!!

Phil

.....oh yes and before anyone notices, yes a replacement gearstick gaiter/knob is on the way!!!! Lol

On the subject of the workshop manual, i managed to get it and decided to get a couple of lever arch files and print it off, as they were about 60 quid to buy, i didnt realise it was over 600 pages. I printed it off double sided, and yes, nice bedtime reading!!!!!!

GrumpyGel said:

Reverse lights could be the reverse switch on the gearbox. I'm not sure exactly how this all works (and haven't the foggiest on the reverse sensors), but you could try enabling HDC and see if it activates when putting it in reverse.

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Also put the windscreen wipers on then select reverse, the rear wiper should then activate. I had a similar issue on my old 1.8, I only realised because the rear wiper didn't work when normal wipers were on and I selected reverse. Replaced the reverse switch on the gearbox and it was all fine. Think the switch was only a few quid too.

Ha Ha my gear lever boot was also worn out I ordered a replacement from E bay and bought some glue to stick it to the plastic it was nine pounds repaired well.
Why are all the drivers seats wrecked on Land rovers they must have used Chinese hide or something You don't generally see all cars on the road from that time with wrecked seats.
Just a point is the glass sitting central on the tailgate seal mine was hard up against the nearside plastic trim so I moved it over at the weekend.
Nice looking vehicle You still get a lot for Your money even though they have some faults don't You, all the best Al.

I would do the tests Grumpygel has suggested, "Knocking under seats" I would check the centre rear diff mount for splits and/or sagging as it could be banging on the boot pan. "Water in the tool well in the boot" For me the thingy the rear window slides into at the roof line somehow was letting water dripple down the inside of the window onto the boot cover which then dribbled down into the cubby hole. Clean the guttering out and put a bead of silicone all along it and problem has been solved ever since.
Another job if you can be bothered but will save you a ball ache later on is the take all the door cards off and inspect the window mechanisms and grease them up.

28-30 psi all round

selkent1 said:

And yes, i do have an odd tyre. Got 3 Good Years and the near side rear is something ive never heard of!

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You need identical tyres on all corners, with the least least worn on the rear. Odd tyres load up the transmission, giving rise to knocks and bangs when turning and changing gear. Odd tyres will also damage the VCU and destroy the IRD, so the odd tyres need rectifying first.

selkent1 said:

What should the psi be on these cars

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30 PSI all round.

Also the tracking is out, the NS headlamp has a fogged glass (that's an MOT fail) and the clutch pedal is too low, so expect slave cylinder failure soon.

Nodge68 said:

Also the tracking is out, the NS headlamp has a fogged glass (that's an MOT fail) and the clutch pedal is too low, so expect slave cylinder failure soon.

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Thanks to all for the info. I am aware of the fogged headlamp as the seller gave me a replacement, along with the nearside wing mirror, which i have managed to do, along with the car. But how can you spot the tracking being out (which i suspected but wasnt sure) and the issue with the clutch pedal????? Gear changes are nice and precise and dont have any issues with the bedal and the way it behaves!

Re' knocking noise: as others have pointed out I'd have a careful look at the rear diff' mounts. Use a torch and look carefully at the centre one. You could well see where the prop' shaft flange has been hitting the tunnel housing and the rubber could appear quite clean & blackish as it's been flexing a lot.
Tyres: all same brand, size, type and inflation. I run mine [ '98 FL1 1.8XDI with 205 70 15 Bridgestone Duellers 697] at 27psi cold - when hot they are about 30 to 31psi & that seems to work well with even wear across the tread. To high an inflation pressure and the centre of the tread wears faster... Others will have differing opinions on that!
Reverse light issue: Checked fuse/s? bulbs too! Has there been any work done on the offside rear corner as the wiring is clustered there behind the plastic luggage area liner - [it goes across from there to the nearside lights under that plastic plate across the bottom of the door aperture ].
Water in rear cubby: As GG said there seem to be 2 possible ways for it to get in: faulty door /glass seal - look for tracking/trickle marks behind the plastic liners OR from beneath with poor seal where the tub/cubby is spot welded to the floor...
VCU testing: the one wheel up test [OWUT] can be done easily at home. You are looking for a time at about a minute or preferably less, 30 seconds would be very good. Failing that you can check for VCU stiffness while driving slowly. You will need a large open area like an unused car park, field, ...] with the motor idling and in either 1st or reverse gear - drive in circles on full lock [ left & right, forwards & backwards too]. You should be able to drive in circles with no throttle needed. If it feels like the hand brake is on and / or the motor stalls then the VCU is stiff.

I really like my FL1 - It's running very well at the moment. I know it's an earlier model to yours. I mostly enjoy working on it as it's pretty straight forward and there's reasonable space to at things. I've done a few things to mine and if you're interested yo can see what I've been up to HERE.

First thing to do is the One Wheel Up Test to check if the VCU is OK.

I'd then change the oil in the IRD. If it comes out a grey/metalicy colour that's the bearings ground down and suspended in the oil. If it comes out looking like used oil, then the unit is fine.

While you're underneath, check the VCU support bearings and (rear) diff mounts.

You know you'll need 2 tyres - to match the 3 on your car, the 2 new on the back, the best of the rest on the front.

Given the above, you'll know what you are into. The "big one" is the IRD. If that's on its way out, then you probably have big bills and may wish to consider you're options other than simply repairing as-is.

Regarding tyre pressures, the LR quoted figures are for the tyres it left the factory on.

You should really take advice from the maker of the tyres on your car.

I run GT Radial MaxMilers and GT Radial say to run them at 38-40psi - which is what I do. They are though 'van' tyres, which to me are economical and decent enough rubber for my 2WD Freelander.

selkent1 said:

But how can you spot the tracking being out (which i suspected but wasnt sure

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I can tell a lot from pictures.

The front tyres are more worn on the inner edges of the tread, which is normally down tracking, if the ball joints are ok (just passed the MOT).

selkent1 said:

and the issue with the clutch pedal?????

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The normal resting position for the clutch pedal is level with the brake. Your pedal is lower, indicating that there's something amiss with the hydraulics. The slave cylinder is normally the one that goes first, or it's mounting bracket.

selkent1 said:

But how can you spot

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I can also tell that the steering wheel is a black wheel that has been coloured to match the rest of the interior. The colouring is now coming off, which wouldn't happen if the wheel was the correct colour from the factory.