P38A My first EAS Fun

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Thanks Marty, I had seen reference to a connector in the kick panel but I hadn't taken the time to look in Rave to see exactly what runs through there. Entirely my fault, I'll take a look at that connector as soon as I get chance.

Noted on the OBD!

The replacement ECU idea is more about tweaking / more info / easier diagnostics than it is 'fixing' the current ECU. I'm a software developer / tinkerer, it's in my nature to attach computers to things and see what I can make them do!

Thanks for the useful info, I'll have a shufty at that connector, replace the delay timer and see what I get
 
TallPaulB said:
Thanks Marty, I had seen reference to a connector in the kick panel but I hadn't taken the time to look in Rave to see exactly what runs through there. Entirely my fault, I'll take a look at that connector as soon as I get chance.

Noted on the OBD!

The replacement ECU idea is more about tweaking / more info / easier diagnostics than it is 'fixing' the current ECU. I'm a software developer / tinkerer, it's in my nature to attach computers to things and see what I can make them do!

Thanks for the useful info, I'll have a shufty at that connector, replace the delay timer and see what I get
Click to expand...

Maybe you should have listened and you would have got to that a lot earlier.
 
Update:

Replaced the ECU with one off Ebay, and suspension works fine now. All the heights seem there or there abouts, not tried plugging into it yet with the unlock suite.

The homemade ECU is also going pretty well, got a nice dashboard with the readings from the height sensors, the status of the compressor and all the valves etc, going to mount that in the car somewhere so I can keep an eye on it and see what the standard ECU does before starting to work on the logic. I just need to source a male and female connector 35 pin connector without paying out £50 for an 'ECU bypass wiring harness' off Ebay so I can plug my wires in without splicing into the existing loom.
 
TallPaulB said:
The homemade ECU is also going pretty well, got a nice dashboard with the readings from the height sensors, the status of the compressor and all the valves etc, going to mount that in the car somewhere so I can keep an eye on it and see what the standard ECU does before starting to work on the logic.
Click to expand...

Great stuff - it would be good to see photos or a video. I understand those who say that standard system works well if properly maintained, but a Plan B is always good to have!

Pete
 
TallPaulB said:
Update:

Replaced the ECU with one off Ebay, and suspension works fine now. All the heights seem there or there abouts, not tried plugging into it yet with the unlock suite.

The homemade ECU is also going pretty well, got a nice dashboard with the readings from the height sensors, the status of the compressor and all the valves etc, going to mount that in the car somewhere so I can keep an eye on it and see what the standard ECU does before starting to work on the logic. I just need to source a male and female connector 35 pin connector without paying out £50 for an 'ECU bypass wiring harness' off Ebay so I can plug my wires in without splicing into the existing loom.
Click to expand...
Brilliant, this kind of curiousity will help to keep our buses running in the future when supplies begin to run scarce.
Just look at the rsw suite he designed.
Keep it up that man:cool:
 
TallPaulB said:
It runs on a raspberry pi, and I have the standard touchscreen plugged into it..... but you could connect to it from any device with a browser :)
Click to expand...

I'll be watching developments with interest. I think the original dedicated unit is probably safer than a £20 pi unit or God forbid, anything to do with Windows, especially given something as important as suspension but definitely an interesting project. Might be worth emailing Storey Wilson. He does reply ... Eventually.
 
Yeah, I've got a working original unit now, so less pressure to get something working on the pi..... first step will just be to monitor what the original unit does, so logging all the sensors and valves whenever they change so I can see what's triggering what and putting it on a smaller screen mounted in the car somewhere.

Might have to wait a while though, I've got MOT dependant stuff to fix first :)
 
Good morning,

Quite interested in your project, can you explain a little bit more how it is made up and designed?
 
Sure, it's a raspberry pi for the brains connected to an Arduino Uno for the inputs / outputs.

I'm using node-red on the pi to read the various inputs and display the dashboard.

And that's pretty much it so far! I've had to put it on the back burner for now while I sort other issues.
 
Thanks,

I have been looking at the Arduino myself and I am going to pick up a starter kit for fun. I have some bouncing issues with my car and I am going to start off by building a way to monitor whats going on. Seems like its possible to do this (and really build a new EASECU) with only the Arduino.

I will link up when I have started.
 
The height sensors are all 5v, so they'll plug straight into the analogue inputs on an Arduino (the uno has 5 of them). The valves & compressor relays require 12v to switch them on, so you need some sort of optoisolater or a current sensor to monitor those.

My main blocker at the moment is sourcing the 35 pin connector so I can make a pass through type setup rather than butchering the existing wiring loom
 
TallPaulB said:
The height sensors are all 5v, so they'll plug straight into the analogue inputs on an Arduino (the uno has 5 of them). The valves & compressor relays require 12v to switch them on, so you need some sort of optoisolater or a current sensor to monitor those.

My main blocker at the moment is sourcing the 35 pin connector so I can make a pass through type setup rather than butchering the existing wiring loom
Click to expand...
The solenoids pick with 12 volts and then are held with with a lower voltage that is pulsed. Leave 12 volts on them and they will burn.
 
Datatek said:
The solenoids pick with 12 volts and then are held with with a lower voltage that is pulsed. Leave 12 volts on them and they will burn.
Click to expand...

Yep true. It's amazing how he can contemplate this but not be able to work out which wires operate his door lock.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Mercedeschris
RRC LSE EAS
Replies
15
Views
1K
Datatek
Datatek
A
P38 EAS Compressor Seal Supplier's
Replies
16
Views
2K
Rubberknees
Rubberknees
G
Old timer newbie!
Replies
4
Views
340
brianp38dse
brianp38dse
8v_chris
P38A EAS & Nanocom - not talking to each other!
2
Replies
28
Views
2K
8v_chris
8v_chris
W
P38 EAS Down on One Corner
Replies
9
Views
1K
pwood999
pwood999
Back
Top