Tappets,

different lany manuals say hot and cold, whats your preference,
ive onli done hot any one here set them up cold

Never done them on my series, but done them on a Mini cold.

The plate on the rocker cover says Hot or cold, and after all it is a old land rover engine and not a Highly tuned F1 engine. The hot or cold is going to be minimal.

Mseries3 said:

Never done them on my series, but done them on a Mini cold.

The plate on the rocker cover says Hot or cold, and after all it is a old land rover engine and not a Highly tuned F1 engine. The hot or cold is going to be minimal.

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Technically you should set your tappets when the engine is COLD for better performance. The whole principle behind tappet adjustment is this:- When you cold start your engine, it will usually crank up and then tick over to operating temperature, causing the metal to expand. You set the clearances to compensate for this. If you set the clearances when your engine is warm, there will be a clearance between the rocker arm and the valve collet when really there should be metal to metal contact, and even more so when the engine is cold. The further you can open the valves, the more efficiently your engine will run. It should clatter and tap when cold and then smoothen out when its warmed up. It does improve your efficiency and its oe of the reasons why you'll find your landy moves a bit quicker once its warmed up!

-Pos

pos said:

... there should be metal to metal contact, and even more so when the engine is cold. The further you can open the valves, the more efficiently your engine will run. It should clatter and tap when cold and then smoothen out when its warmed up. It does improve your efficiency and its oe of the reasons why you'll find your landy moves a bit quicker once its warmed up!

-Pos

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POS - I'm really worried about my engine. I have a Series 2A with the 2.25 Liter petrol engine. I've never taken the valve cover off, and I'm fairly new to maintenance (I did change the exhaust manifold once a long time ago on my previous 2A). When I start the engine from cold, I hear a clattering like, clackety, clackety, clackety..., for a few seconds , maybe one or two seconds. Then, idles fine with cold start until warmed up. As I drive in 2nd gear and the revs increase - to just before time to switch to 3rd, I hear that same clattering. Then, I'm 3rd and fine, no clattering, driving in third at normal revs and speed. Okay, I accelerate and then when the revs are high - just ready to go into 4th, I hear the rapid machine gun like clattering. Has this anything to do with valves, or is it rod knock, or something worse? I know it's hard to say here on the forum, so any ideas would be helpful.

Here is a little clip of it. It's just at the beginning of the clip as I rev up from second to third. I add som e more clips to that post.

https://alexatesting.blogspot.com/2018/12/is-this-rod-knock.html

Thanks!
Mike

All i can hear is music!
If the spring on the hot spot flap thingy on the manifold is broken, then that can clatter.
Get an engine stethoscope or suitable length of broom handle to listen round the engine to work out where it's coming from

Okay, I will do this. Also, the weather finally has improved and tomorrow I'll use my high quality audio recorder to get the sound from different spots around the engine. This will be an interesting project, because I'll then edit it into a short video and post on youtube.

Thanks for your input, and I hope you enjoyed the song. Hahaha!
Mike

Check propshafts for slack in universal joints.
What happens if you put the transfer lever into nuetral position then run engine going through each gear change as if driving.
Is the noise there when you just run engine without engaging gear.

I'll try this. It's a great idea. I do hear the noise for a half a second when I first start the engine, however as it idles, even revs in idle, the noise is not there. I'm going to do as you say with the transfer lever in neutral, and see what happens. Super idea. (And I'll record the whole thing.)
Thanks!
Mike

I always do mine cold and on a regular basis usually once a month, the difference is that if i do them hot i notice less power on hill climbs when the engine is hot and there are a lot of hills up here.
I don't know if it's a thing but on mine it's nearly always Nr 6 & 8 that need more adjusting ( they are often almost closed having no gap)

have fun

Simon

cold the gaps the size it is so it takes into account theres still a gap when hot, if you do them hot theres to big a gap

Nice video here from rimmer Bros setting valve clearances

Sunday morning learning curve or what!
Which raises a question, in the workshop manual .. well haynes it says that all the gaps are 25 but chap in the video says .. exhaust at 25 and inlet at 10.
I have never done it like this .. anyone else used these settings?

Simon

steve2286w said:

Nice video here from rimmer Bros setting valve clearances

Click to expand...

I think they are all 10 thou ( 0.010") or 0.25mm for the young uns, mr Haynes says hot or cold!

Okay, I ran through the gears while red lever in neutral. I did not hear the clickety sound at the top of each rev as much. It seems more prominent when I'm driving and car is actually moving in gear. I made a better recording and video, and I've uploaded it here:
https://alexatesting.blogspot.com/2018/12/land-rover-series-2a-engine-noise.html

If anyone has any suggestions where to start, I'll begin that process. I will also watch the Rimmer Bros. video tonight.
Thanks all, and Happy New Year!
Mike

Hi Mike
That sounds more low thudding knocking than tappety sound, hows oil pressure?
i once had some engine knocking sounds and it was a faulty injector
lets hope the sorting valve clearances helps

Oil pressure is 25. Just upon start-up, for like 1 second when I gun the engine, I hear clunckety, clunckety, like there is no oil for a second and then sound stops and idles nicely.

That’s sounds like the oil pressure building up as the noise disappears , daughters Corsa does that too , nice looking Station wagon by the way

Thanks, Steve -
Happy New Year!
Mike

in the video at 7:50 he says inlet manifold is 10thou and exhaust is 25thou, thats 25mm and 63mm
He also says some of them are all the same and some not ... how do we find out?


Simon

Simon Perks said:

in the video at 7:50 he says inlet manifold is 10thou and exhaust is 25thou, thats 25mm and 63mm
He also says some of them are all the same and some not ... how do we find out?


Simon

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inlet manifold ? are you talking about setting tappets if so they are all 10 thou cold ,all landy 2.25 engines are the same