90 rebuild cost

Leonv said:

I just don’t want to waste x amount should I sell it in 5 years time

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Sell the defender.

I’m rebuilding my 200tdi 110 CSW. My reasons are I found two rust “spots” on the dumb irons, and the bulkhead split down one side where the bodge and chewing gum gave up (previous owner repairs).

I have already spent in the region of £7-8K, and it’s still sat in bits waiting for the new chassis to be delivered. I started the project back in April, hoping for it to be off the road for a few weeks, maybe a month, but the more I removed, the worse it got. Finally ending at the chassis needing that much welding that it wasn’t worth the time/effort to repair, only to replace it in a few years anyway.

In my honest opinion, if you are having doubts now, about space and costs, don’t start the project. I paid nearly £10K for the defender in 2015. I had £3K saved up, and £3K available on a credit card deal I got, when I started the rebuild. I wanted to do my rebuild, and recently I have had numerous thoughts bout selling the whole thing. Before the rebuild I had been driving it for 3 years, and wanted to keep it indefinitely, but it’s soul destroying when you think your getting somewhere, only to find your actually going backwards.

mick 1986 said:

Sell the defender.

I’m rebuilding my 200tdi 110 CSW. My reasons are I found two rust “spots” on the dumb irons, and the bulkhead split down one side where the bodge and chewing gum gave up (previous owner repairs).

I have already spent in the region of £7-8K, and it’s still sat in bits waiting for the new chassis to be delivered. I started the project back in April, hoping for it to be off the road for a few weeks, maybe a month, but the more I removed, the worse it got. Finally ending at the chassis needing that much welding that it wasn’t worth the time/effort to repair, only to replace it in a few years anyway.

In my honest opinion, if you are having doubts now, about space and costs, don’t start the project. I paid nearly £10K for the defender in 2015. I had £3K saved up, and £3K available on a credit card deal I got, when I started the rebuild. I wanted to do my rebuild, and recently I have had numerous thoughts bout selling the whole thing. Before the rebuild I had been driving it for 3 years, and wanted to keep it indefinitely, but it’s soul destroying when you think your getting somewhere, only to find your actually going backwards.

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When the going gets tough, the tough get going !! True what you say though, but perseverance and if nothing else, rebuilding a Land Rover learns you to be positive thinking, because without that you are screwed heheh.

No on should be deluded that you can properly rebuild a Defender for less than 10k, which includes new chassis and full engine rebuild.

Al2O3 said:

Depends on what you paid for the original vehicle! Or, how long you've had it. Should be more than you spend.

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I would completely disagree with that. If you have done the rebuild properly, the cost in parts alone will be far more than you will ever get for the vehicle when sold, let alone your labour costs. A galv chassis vehicle can be had for about 8k, therefore if you spend more than that you are likely to lose money. The initial price paid for the vehicle plus the chassis is nearly all of the budget if you are looking at that way. You do not rebuild these for profit, you rebuild them because it is something you want to do.

I have had mine for 10 years and I have done nearly 200k on it bringing it to 300k total. Over that time it has had a "rolling restoration" so has always been in use with never more than a couple of moths off the road for major work. It is a 110 hardtop and although you could not offer me enough to sell it to you I would guess in its current conditions and with the kit fitted I would get between 8-10k for it. I will list below a few of the big ticket items that it has had in that time all of which are parts cost as all of the work has been carried out myself. I know it will no be a fair comparison as it is being used at the same time but will give you an idea:
1800 - pruchase
1000 - 200tdi engine
3000 - galv chassis
1000 - recon gear/transfer boxs
500 - replacment bulkhead
750 - set of tyres
400 - part front axle (swivels/bearings)
300 - 3 x cambelts
500 - replacement doors
500 - roller paint job
350 - shocks ad springs

This is not a complete list, and does not include general service items, and all the small things that quickly ad up to large amounts.In a rebuild you could easily add another 1-2k for small things you don't think about like suspension bushes/brakepipes etc The last time I started roughly adding up the costs in old invoices I got to about 20k and stopped because it became frightening.

That does not include the money spent on tools to be able to do the work. The first time I did the cambelt it cost me more that it would have done to take it to a garage by the time I had all the tools needed and I was given an old HGV torque wrench from work for the crank bolt so did not even have to buy that!

windy81 said:

When the going gets tough, the tough get going !! True what you say though, but perseverance and if nothing else, rebuilding a Land Rover learns you to be positive thinking, because without that you are screwed heheh.

No on should be deluded that you can properly rebuild a Defender for less than 10k, which includes new chassis and full engine rebuild.

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I should really have said, the money I have spent so far doesn’t include any engine work, other than belt replacements and fluid changes. The only suspension work I have done on this rebuild is front springs, shocks, shock towers, retainers, and bushes. I haven't touched the axles yet, but they will only be getting fluids and maybe a fluid flush. It was running sweet as a nut being my daily for work, so I know nothing was wrong on the driveline. Let’s hope it doesn’t throw a huff at the rebuild and be a bitch when it’s back together.

Also, I don’t have things like a new exhaust yet, that’s still to budget. Not to mention all the “small bits” I have forgotten that I will find when I try and put it back together.

dag019 said:

I would completely disagree with that. If you have done the rebuild properly, the cost in parts alone will be far more than you will ever get for the vehicle when sold, let alone your labour costs. A galv chassis vehicle can be had for about 8k, therefore if you spend more than that you are likely to lose money. The initial price paid for the vehicle plus the chassis is nearly all of the budget if you are looking at that way.

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I've indicated the same, only over a number of posts. As well as trying to get the OP to seriously consider his reasons for doing it. Also, starting with the right vehicle model, cost and condition in order to cover his costs. I mentioned how long you've had the vehicle cos I'd had mine for over 11 years having paid 9.5k for it back then. As far as I was concerned it owed me nothing when I started the rebuild.

You've all said the same re build cost against value...but as I said before he says he's a LR tech he should no what's involved in cost...

Shippers said:

You've all said the same re build cost against value...but as I said before he says he's a LR tech he should no what's involved in cost...

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True, but he might just be a Tech working in an LR garage. Rather than an LR enthusiast working in an LR garage. In which case he might not be as clued up as us on here.

Don't expect to get all your money back, but things like a galvanised chassis or bulkhead will always increase the finished value. At the minute a good paint job and big wheels seem to be increasing value as well.

18k and my time was free ,,,i bought a complete basket case knowing i would rebuild or replace most of it it.... (in my view) ended up better than new just wish that i did a110 in place of the 90 as I've gained 2 more grand children since i started it and I've got a 4th on the way lol

GATSO said:

18k and my time was free ,,,i bought a complete basket case knowing i would rebuild or replace most of it it.... (in my view) ended up better than new just wish that i did a110 in place of the 90 as I've gained 2 more grand children since i started it and I've got a 4th on the way lol

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Bet you've got a gold AK47 anorl ................

As for me;
2.5k RC Galvanised chassis including paint (black)
1.5k Ashcroft transfer/gearbox + clutch
2k on a 2009 body
1800 on Rad, intercooler, frame, silicone pipes, header tank, oil breather tank.
1700 on engine (200tdi) including all new water pump, gaskets, timing belt, glow plugs, spill return pipe, fuel filter etc
800 on a bulkhead + 240 to have it painted
550 recon fuel injector pump and injectors
500 adwest steering box
300 on rear tank
150 on an alternator
120 starter motor
100 on stainless front pipe

And I could probably add another 1k on bits that I have forgot to mention (£230 on cheap suspension) panhard rod, steering dampener, polly bushes for radius arms.... the list is endless.

And it’s nowhere near finished, in fact it’s just a chassis with an engine and gearbox bolted on.

I’m not a competent mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, in fact I’d be screwed if it wasn’t for the kind people on here offering advice.

If I’m being honest, I’m in too deep to stop now, if was offered 5k tomorrow I seriously consider selling it and cut my loss. But on the other hand, I know by the time it’s finished it will be like a new car and I love the defender.... so I guess I need to finish it.

It’s a very long winded way of saying, give it some serious thought before committing to it.

Al2O3 said:

True, but he might just be a Tech working in an LR garage. Rather than an LR enthusiast working in an LR garage. In which case he might not be as clued up as us on here.

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i just fix the ****ers the oldest Land Rover we've had in was a 2004 disco td5, we dont restore and a lot of the parts are obsolete making it impossible for us to do as a main dealer we can only use genuine parts. however the parts i can get will be at cost + vat i'm just trying to get a rough cost.


i plan on using the original chassis but get it acid dipped and galvanized as it ex mod i think it'll be worth having original. Also a complete rewire and upgrade all bushes to poly's. and a repaint to gunmetal grey. plus doors, window seals and what else needs doing.
I might upgrade every nut,bolt and rivet to stainless steal to stop corrosion too

You won't prevent corrosion by using stainless fixings, you can make it worse, trust me, don't use stainless fixings. http://www.designbyinitiative.com/files/8514/2711/8760/Galvanic_Table.pdf

Which parts are NLA for a Defender? I've managed to get bits for an '89 110 from the main dealer quite easily.

Mr Happy80 said:

You won't prevent corrosion by using stainless fixings, you can make it worse, trust me, don't use stainless fixings. http://www.designbyinitiative.com/files/8514/2711/8760/Galvanic_Table.pdf

Which parts are NLA for a Defender? I've managed to get bits for an '89 110 from the main dealer quite easily.

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What experience do you have with using stainless on a defender? Not being funny, just curious as I’m in the middle of a full rebuild, all with various grades of stainless steel. The only benefit I have on my side is the rather expensive antigalvanic grease I’m using.

None on a Defender. In my past life, before moving to ships, I worked as a Design Engineer for a company doing work in the motor industry. On ships it's doubly important that no stainless fixings are used, just ask the Italian Engineer who ordered them them during the reassembly of a hot water manifold system and was surprised when the flanges started rotting away. If they're not used on ships then why do you need them.

If you're using grease then you may be fine although the head of the bolt is still in contact as you can't truly isolate the bolt. Yet you have to ask, if they're not used in harsher environments on ships then why do you need them on your Defender? It's certainly not to save pennies on a £700,000,000 construction cost.

I'm not going to stop anyone from using them. I's just advice and can be ignored if you wish.

Mr Happy80 said:

You won't prevent corrosion by using stainless fixings, you can make it worse, trust me, don't use stainless fixings. http://www.designbyinitiative.com/files/8514/2711/8760/Galvanic_Table.pdf

Which parts are NLA for a Defender? I've managed to get bits for an '89 110 from the main dealer quite easily.

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Wire looms, body panels, rear floor panel the list goes on

Mr Happy80 said:

None on a Defender. In my past life, before moving to ships, I worked as a Design Engineer for a company doing work in the motor industry. On ships it's doubly important that no stainless fixings are used, just ask the Italian Engineer who ordered them them during the reassembly of a hot water manifold system and was surprised when the flanges started rotting away. If they're not used on ships then why do you need them.

If you're using grease then you may be fine although the head of the bolt is still in contact as you can't truly isolate the bolt. Yet you have to ask, if they're not used in harsher environments on ships then why do you need them on your Defender? It's certainly not to save pennies on a £700,000,000 construction cost.

I'm not going to stop anyone from using them. I's just advice and can be ignored if you wish.

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I know a man who’s an marine engineer and swears by stainless fixings. So that’s why I was going to use them

Would it be a good idea using zinc annodes to reduce corrosion

Leonv said:

Would it be a good idea using zinc annodes to reduce corrosion

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Just rebuild as standard...your now getting into silly sleepless nights worrying about upgrades to prevent future problems...have you stripped it down yet...if not wait and see what has corroded due to fixings...

Shippers said:

Just rebuild as standard...your now getting into silly sleepless nights worrying about upgrades to prevent future problems...have you stripped it down yet...if not wait and see what has corroded due to fixings...

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It was more of a joke, my classic isn’t in terrible condition from what I can see so far. I’m planning on getting a unit over the next month or so, then I can start the strip down, first plan of action is to strip down and get the chassis acid dipped then galvanised with a painted finish. Then depending what I find I’ll go from there