Engine removal advice

Earth should go battery,
gearbox,enginemount,engine

Success. That’s my mate steve. I’m not that handsome. Some excellent tips so
Thank you very much.

Looks like it's a good job Steve is there to do all of the hard work. Poor bugger.

It's been a long time since I last removed an engine, it's always easier if you have an assistant. I would always label every plug and wire I disconnect cos there was always at least one that I couldn't remember what it was for. Get some of those Chinese takeaway tubs to put all the various nuts and bolts in and label them them too.

Col

Al2O3 said:

Looks like it's a good job Steve is there to do all of the hard work. Poor bugger.

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Turns out a 16 stone rower is the best tool in the box

As well, give serious consideration to replacing clutch, throw-out bearing and upgrade or weld the lever that actuates the throw-out bearing. It is easy and cheap to do at this point in your rebuild. Check flywheel surface as well.

Ah, somebody else who does their Land Rover maintenance at the side of the road. I see you're an even more advanced practitioner than me as you do it on double yellow lines too!

Brown said:

Ah, somebody else who does their Land Rover maintenance at the side of the road. I see you're an even more advanced practitioner than me as you do it on double yellow lines too!

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Haha yeh. Every time I do something big I think my neighbours are going to complain but each time a new person comes out, wants to help out, brings out tea etc etc. Good sign.

In terms of alignment of all timing parts etc. When I strip (everyThings getting stripped down) do I need to mark where each part is to keep it aligned or is it the case that everything (crank, pistons etc) only go back one way and then just set everything back to top dead centre to reset timing?

Even got an outside loo............. impressive !

payydg said:

In terms of alignment of all timing parts etc. When I strip (everyThings getting stripped down) do I need to mark where each part is to keep it aligned or is it the case that everything (crank, pistons etc) only go back one way and then just set everything back to top dead centre to reset timing?

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Keep pistons, rods , rod caps, crank caps, valves,followers, rollers, rockers to go back where they came from.
Make notes of the bolt lengths and location in the front timing case.
Pistons, rods and rod caps and crank main caps are the important ones.

If no body has mentioned it yet, piston size and crank/main bearing shells have the size marked on them. You'll need that info once it's stripped down.
Replace all block core plugs.

Great advice thanks. So don’t need to mark positions of crank pulley, timing gear, fly wheel etc?

payydg said:

Great advice thanks. So don’t need to mark positions of crank pulley, timing gear, fly wheel etc?

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no they are either located by dowel or key way,things like cam followers if been reused are best kept in order same with vlaves, con rods are numbered not that which goes in which matters if your using new pistons and bearings but caps and rods must be kept together and cap only fits one way round

jamesmartin said:

no they are either located by dowel or key way,things like cam followers if been reused are best kept in order same with vlaves, con rods are numbered not that which goes in which matters if your using new pistons and bearings but caps and rods must be kept together and cap only fits one way round

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Thanks James