rev.s takes to long to settle after starting, using fuel alot more.

When I start my engine first thing it idled high for maybe 15 seconds then drops down to normal idle or also drops if I put it in gear which it is supposed to do. I think mine should have the SAI system but it has been removed, it is supposed to pump air in to reduce emissions when cold starting and also the high revs are part of that I believe There are one or two silver pipes running along the front of the engine on the M62, but not mine.

https://workshop-manuals.com/landro...system__v8/emissions/secondary_air_injection/

Mine will also idle at 900 rpm if that battery charge is low which again it is supposed to do and then it drops back to 600 after a while and a few restarts.

Does any of the above sound like yours and is your battery charge and charging rate ok ?
If you have an SAI pump down by your front bumper and it’s not working then that would give an initial rich reading potentially.
None of the above may be useful or relevant .

Datatek said:

No clutch on an auto box.

Click to expand...

I meant the clutches inside the 'box.

gear box is ok had it looked at today. holiday chicken mine does the same as yours does. but it never used to. ill check that SAI pump. it very well could be that. i also think it could be an oxy sensor on the exhaust. but its not come up on the dianostic.

Bosch Oxy sensors are not cheap and as you say the reason they have an upstream and downstream is to second check the system. I have changed one of my downstream simply because it showed a fault. I used to leave my engine running at the higher rpm until it dropped back to the lower rpm but I believe the rich running on idle compromised my catalytic converters and in turn my bank 2 cylinders. I used to get a serious amount of engine breaking when I backed off the throttle which I believe was a blocked CAT, once I started wringing it’s neck in sport mode from time to time my MPG increased and the engine breaking went away. I also run a few bottles of cataclean through it but I’m not convinced it is a benefit it seemed to help my engine. I now have a gauge to check my exhaust back pressure that plugs into the upstream sensor to check for a blocked CAT and now I get in and drive straight away without waiting for the revs to drop. My engine is the M62 though but you may have SAI still.

thanks for your time on this and your thoughts are welcome. i will have a look in the morning for a SAI but not seen one on this engine up to now. the 06 plate is the swap over to jag engine. they do have a vacuum valve which i did change as it was the only fault that came up at the beginning.

The change over years can be a pain, I had a TD6 2006 to work on for a while and that had the BMW engine and engine ECU but the later JLR immobiliser and no keys ...
Had to go to main dealer to get it mobilised

bought this because i was told the 4.4 jag engine is best out of them all.up to now it has been.i will get to the bottom of it.

I think any of the engines have the potential to be good, the M62 is a nice engine but the vanos can be a complicated, noisy pain as can the timing chain guides.
Let u know how you get on

took it to a sure start to a mate. hes a great diagnostician. hes tested it and came up with throttle body problem. so ive found a place that sell new throttle bodies. £160. ill let you know if this is the answer. thanks. and yes i now have chain guide problem on my other 2003 l322. so i will need to know what tools i will need the lock the engine so i can take the chains off to put new ones on plus guides.

Ok, let us know, there are a couple of chain guide threads on here, including mine, so when you are ready we can direct you to something hopefully helpful.

ok then i cleaned the throttle body out with rubbing alcohol today. took it for a run its much better. revs dont stay up when first starting from cold. runs bit smoother. so ill run it in morning to see how it is. i ordered a new throttle body anyway for 160 new. ill put it with my other parts in the workshop till i need it lol

ok cool, I wonder if the throttle body was sticking until it warms up a bit but mine does it so regularly and exactly the same each and every time I have started it, maybe mine needs cleaning as well

studying my other l322 2003 its engine noise. think its the vanos seals. not the chain guides. its a banging noise?

vanos is normally a cold start rattle and then a tapping noise from the front of the cylinder head when warm - banging is not what i would relate to vanos which is described more like a diesel noise

2006 dont know till i take oil pan off and the front timing cover to see if its the chain as well as the vanos. it could have chucked a plug. its comon on these heads to go soft after running on lpg for a few years. right back to the 2003 l322 with the throttle body problem its been run for 50 miles and seems to be ok. so a good clean was all it needed. ill need to run it for 250 miles to see if its really sorted.to see if fuel has returned to normal.

Good luck with both, the lower sump is the easiest way to tell about your guides, if they have gone then you will find evidence down there for sure.