Rust Protection

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DSJ

New Member
Posts
7
Location
Wales
Hi All,
I am sure this is going to be a topic that has been covered but on intial searching I see older threads and just want to get a more up to date view...if I have missed something then please just let me know.

I want to get by 2016 110 treated and have come to the conclusion there are 2 places that seem to offer long terms solutions but only 1 is offering a warranty (based on readidng)

Option 1: Before 'n' After - CR Coating (10 year option)
Option 2: Coroless (through TMD Tuning)

Does anyone have experience with either? - Option 1 is cheaper and takes 1 day based on the setup (only does rust treatments and setup accordingly). Option 2 is more expensive but suggests the coverage could last 15 years or more but no mention of warranty on the product (the treatment is used extensively in marine applications so likely very good. However, cost is high and at the moment would take 2 weeks to complete based on the weather and drying time.

Appreciate some views and whether anyone has experience with either?

Thanks,

DSJ
 
DSJ said:
Hi All,
I am sure this is going to be a topic that has been covered but on intial searching I see older threads and just want to get a more up to date view...if I have missed something then please just let me know.

I want to get by 2016 110 treated and have come to the conclusion there are 2 places that seem to offer long terms solutions but only 1 is offering a warranty (based on readidng)

Option 1: Before 'n' After - CR Coating (10 year option)
Option 2: Coroless (through TMD Tuning)

Does anyone have experience with either? - Option 1 is cheaper and takes 1 day based on the setup (only does rust treatments and setup accordingly). Option 2 is more expensive but suggests the coverage could last 15 years or more but no mention of warranty on the product (the treatment is used extensively in marine applications so likely very good. However, cost is high and at the moment would take 2 weeks to complete based on the weather and drying time.

Appreciate some views and whether anyone has experience with either?

Thanks,

DSJ
Click to expand...
I’ve just painted my chassis with coroless glass flake boat paint. You car pay for someone to do it or give the chassis a good wire brush and paint yourself.
Goes on great and looks excellent. Might need two coats for the full 15 years in case of any missed bits on first pass.
Going to wax oil the inside of the chassis at some point but I can’t comment on how they do this with the service you mention above.
 
Just done both my axles with Coroless Glass Flake, really good stuff and looks great too, I put 2 coats of Red Oxide on first then 2 coats of Coroless, only used a brush but would look even better sprayed.
 

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border said:
Just done both my axles with Coroless Glass Flake, really good stuff and looks great too, I put 2 coats of Red Oxide on first then 2 coats of Coroless, only used a brush but would look even better sprayed.
Click to expand...

Which coroless paint did you use? from the research I have done it seems to be the best stuff available currently but there are lots of different variants an spec numbers.
I plan on doing my chassis (galv but 5 years old now) and axles. I have red oxide already and was planning on doing the axles the same way you have with a brush. Just need to work out what to put on the chassis first. Once completed i will then fill the chassis with dinitrol and refill the bulkhead and door frames at the same time.
 
dag019 said:
Which coroless paint did you use? from the research I have done it seems to be the best stuff available currently but there are lots of different variants an spec numbers.
I plan on doing my chassis (galv but 5 years old now) and axles. I have red oxide already and was planning on doing the axles the same way you have with a brush. Just need to work out what to put on the chassis first. Once completed i will then fill the chassis with dinitrol and refill the bulkhead and door frames at the same time.
Click to expand...

Top coat I believe he used glass reinforced top coat as have I. I'd use better than red oxide - its not what it once was. Corroless do a red oxide looking rust stabilizing primer that I'd think border probably used also. I am trialling bonda primer as are a few others. You can use this system on chassis, axle etc. Some use fertan or similar to stabalise any remaining rust prior to painting also. Hydrate 80 is a similar product available through Bilt Hamber.
 
dag019 said:
Which coroless paint did you use? from the research I have done it seems to be the best stuff available currently but there are lots of different variants an spec numbers.
I plan on doing my chassis (galv but 5 years old now) and axles. I have red oxide already and was planning on doing the axles the same way you have with a brush. Just need to work out what to put on the chassis first. Once completed i will then fill the chassis with dinitrol and refill the bulkhead and door frames at the same time.
Click to expand...
I used this one Mate https://www.arc-rite.co.uk/corroles...-rust-killer-chassis-paint-choose-size-2167-p The red oxide was from Tor Coatings who also specialise in Chassis paint.http://www.tor-coatings.com/
 
border said:
I used this one Mate https://www.arc-rite.co.uk/corroles...-rust-killer-chassis-paint-choose-size-2167-p The red oxide was from Tor Coatings who also specialise in Chassis paint.http://www.tor-coatings.com/
Click to expand...
Many thanks, looking at the corroless website I know they offer many different variation of the glass paint and every forum seems to recommend something slightly different. I have most of a 5 gallon tub of red oxide left which was procured from my last company which used to refurbish skips so would use that on the steel parts. I just need to work out what the best thing (if any) would be to prime old galv.
 
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