Freelander 1 Thinking about buying a Freelande,r what to look for?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

jimwise68

Member
Posts
41
Location
Sudbury Suffolk
So I am in the market for a vehicle to drive to my local train station. Want something that runs all year round but that is not going to get stolen (like a defender might, if I left there). Needs to be economical (better than a Range), so thought about getting a Freelander 1 TD4. Going to be spending around £4k.

What should I look out for or should I get something else that is more reliable/economical?
X-Trail, CRV, X3, Jeep Patriot are others that fill my criteria.

But love the green oval badge brand. :)
 
Last edited:
OK, so I have just found the thread "Freelander - Everything you need to know" which helps! haha

But any owners input on living with one daily would be greatly appreciated.

thanks
 
A well-maintained Td4 is pretty reliable, and will cost much less than your £4k budget. Ours does 40mpg, and cost £1600 (+£200 to fix the faults it came with).
 
But any owners input on living with one daily would be greatly appreciated

I drive mine daily and it's a joy to do so. It does have the occasional little hiccup, like this weekend I had to repair a cracked vacuum pipe connector. However that's the first problem I've had in 6 months of daily use. Being a Land Rover, it's not the last word in reliability, but it's pretty good and has much more character than other more mundane vehicles.
 
had mine just over a year now and not really had much issue with it... although it did come with issues.
brakes didn't work = worn vacuum hose... I fixed that. incidentally it did come with paperwork from some garage quoting lots of money for a new vacuum pump it didn't need.
handbrake didn't work. I fixed that. not a big fan of the handbrake pivot linkage in those drums.
minor water leak = became major water leak after a couple of months. burst plastic elbow... I fixed that.
tailgate window didn't operate = regulator broken. still broken lol. need to shut the tailgate while pushing the glass forward a little so it seats under the seal and rain drip... otherwise I get a wet boot when it rains.
don't think the sunroof worked... probably still doesn't.
thermostat didn't work and still doesn't... need to get round to that one.
driver's window regulator broke on me last winter... window was frozen up a bit so regulator didn't cope with the motor load...something snapped and now crunches... I'll do that one day.
did an oil and filter change last weekend, found the new sump plug washer was too small and didn't have an old one to put back on either. common issue apparently. managed to enlarge it sufficiently using vise jaws to support the washer and tapping a fire poker down through it... stretched it like a ring on jeweller's mandrel. inner diameter is only a few mm too small... so if you do own oil changes, either have something to stretch the washer you get with filter or get a bigger one separately before dropping the oil. oil filter cover needs a 36mm socket. My sockets only go up to 32 but I managed to loosen it with a pair of stillsons, . then I realised my awesome oil filter strap would go on it... got blinded by the presence of the 36mm nut top, a quality filter strap like mine can't be beat.
 
Your budget will buy a very good Td4 indeed but buy carefully, do all the checks outlined in the "What you need to know" thread and then (most importantly) keep it well maintained! They are really not much worse than any other 12-20 year old 4x4 and can still put a big smile on your face.
 
I think you’ll struggle to find an FL1 that costs that much, but 100% agree with the sentiment of buying the best you can find. And if you’ve found that buying thread, you will hopefully be able to find a good one (avoiding the usual expensive pitfalls) :)

As a daily driver, they’re comfy, relaxing and generally enjoyable things to smoke about in. Where they really come into their own is in inclement weather conditions (like many Land Rovers!) - the permanent AWD means they’re brilliant in the snow: one of my abiding memories will be of going over Alexandra Palace this winter. People were telling us the hill was un-passable and lesser cars were sliding everywhere, getting stuck. My FL just drove up the hill as if there were no snow or ice on the ground: absolutely hilarious! :D
 
Mine's an early L Series diesel that's still running super reliably even though it'll be 20 years old next year. I don't suppose you'll end up with an L Series but I love my oft smokey, always noisy English diesel that was derived from the Perkins Prima and can trace its roots back to Rover engines from the 60's and run in cars such as the MGB (we'll skip over Marinas and the like!) and probably back further. Its last British incarnation was when they cast an extra cylinder into it, slapped on common rail injection and a chain and called it the TD5 - although it is still being developed in India both as a direct injection as used in Freelander and as a common rail engine Rover developed as the G Series to be 'the' TD4 before BMW killed it off. It returns the same fuel economy as the M47 TD4 but isn't as quick off the lights although you can run it on chip fat should you wish to and is less likely to leave you waiting for the AA in the station car park because an electronic component/sensor says NO. TD4's good, L Series is great :)

The V6's consume LOTS of fuel and can be THE most difficult engines to fix when they go wrong - which they have a tendency to do. The 1.8 petrols are super engines and usually surprise people with their capability in Freelander, but if you go that way, go with the expectation that head gaskets fail with regularity - probably on about the same regularity as the belts need changing - although it can be 2 HGs to each belt change.

I would recommend Freelander to anyone - unless you need lots of space in the boot.

Given the way the 4WD (AWD) works, you do need to keep an eye on your tyres (you absolutely must run matching make/model tyres and keep an eye on pressures - TPMS are great) and do a check on its VCU every now and then - budget for a recon when you get your car (£275 for VCU and support bearings from Bell Engineering) as even good condition Freelanders are probably poodling around on VCUs past their sell by date. I'm not a great fan on getting inspections on cars done when purchasing - but on Freelander, if you can, do an oil change on the IRD (front diff/transfer box thingie) - if the oil comes out grey - walk away, if it comes out looking like oil, you should have a good car. I wasn't aware of these characteristics of Freelander when I got mine and a couple of years later my transmission went into melt down - as many do. The plus side on that is that I found LZ to help me fix it :)

Other than the transmission incident (which is the only time its failed to get me home), its run boringly reliable for 8 years in my ownership. Other than servicing and parts you would consider normal wear and tear, such as tyres and brakes, it has needed remarkably few other bits fixed, one of which was the starter motor which is the only time I believe it has failed to start - it really has been amazing. I have used and abused it as well, its towed a 109 SSW home on a transporter trailer (over legal spec), broken an axle on a commercially hired trailer cos I overloaded it with concrete slabs (way over legal spec), towed our boat and all the camping gear (as well as us 4) over mountains on our holidays, taken 5 adults and our luggage on numerous air-conditioned road trips around NZ when we have visitors, starts every turn of the key on frosty mornnings to go collect the day's work as well as when its -7 (or what ever) up in the high country on fishing trips and piles down the river bed on fishing trips - even in 2WD with the TC light flickering away :)

Another plus for Freelander is that parts are readily available from the usual Landie suppliers and, I recon, cheap. Having had a couple of Discos, they are also a dream to work on - everything is so much lighter and easier to handle/fix.

For £4k, you'll have the pick of any F1 probably - so be choosy, you will get a low mileage one in really good condition. Even then though do check the IRD oil if you can as often you can not tell the condition just by looking at it - those 4 matching tyres may not have been on there for long! A dead VCU looks identical to a perfect one, although reversing on full lock and feeling for braking effect can give you an indication it is not always picked up.
 
A tratterer buying a Freelander. Tis becoming a weekly occurrence on ere...

I did say it. All them years of picking ont Freelanders so the prices would drop and they can pick them up cheap.
Ah, so it was all part of the cunning plan from the start! lol

There is absolute no doubting that the FL1 is now the cheapest way into Land Rover ownership as Series and Defender prices inexorably rise, and even rotten Discoverys retain (comparatively) strong values...
 
GrumpyGel thanks for that informative reply. :)

Yep, a Defender is far to expensive and stealable to be used. My L322 has been remarkably reliable in the 8 years I have owned her but far too juicy to use for a daily commute. It seems the Freelander is the future of LR ownership. I would love to get a Disco, but body-off work for wearable parts renders them useless to me.
 
I love the D3s but don't like the idea of the body off for any of the maintenance that may need requiring. Seems a bit of a design fault to me. But as a car, I can't fault them.
 
I love the D3s but don't like the idea of the body off for any of the maintenance that may need requiring. Seems a bit of a design fault to me. But as a car, I can't fault them

There's no routine maintenance that requires the body to come off a D3. It's a myth that was banded about some years ago. Not even an engine change requires the body off, as the entire front end unbolts.
 
Back
Top