obd protocols-td5

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fatbloke

New Member
Posts
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Does anyone know the protocol used by the td5 disco?I've been trying to use a multi reader that uses CAN,VPW,PWM,ISO9141 and KWP 2000 but non of these can read the e.c.u.I just get "link error"any info would be greatly appreciated.Has anyone else bought a reader that is able to communicate with the e.c.u?If so what model etc?Thanks again,Steve
 
Hi,I have a geni scan gs300-scans just about every vehicle except landrover.Just had an email from obd.co.uk and they confirm that the disco td5 is not obd/eobd compliant,so in other words I'm stuffed-its either autolgic or rovacom(both too pricey as a d.i.y option).Hope this helps anyone else thinking of going down this route
Steve
 
Discovery 2 td 5 id NOT OBD2 complaint in the usual sense , what will read faults on other cars will not work on a Land Rover, i Land Rovers has its own system and needs a Nano com or Hawkeye to read any codes, and a different program for each model ie Defender Freelander , Discovery 2 etc costing about £145 each so if you own a Defender and a Discovery or two models it will cost, to be able to cover all Land Rover models could cost as much as £3000unlike £100 or in my case £65 for a memo scan that covers ever other car make and model
you even need one of these to bleed the brakes on a Discovery 2
 
FIREAPPLIANCEMAN said:
Discovery 2 td 5 id NOT OBD2 complaint in the usual sense , what will read faults on other cars will not work on a Land Rover, i Land Rovers has its own system and needs a Nano com or Hawkeye to read any codes, and a different program for each model ie Defender Freelander , Discovery 2 etc costing about £145 each so if you own a Defender and a Discovery or two models it will cost, to be able to cover all Land Rover models could cost as much as £3000unlike £100 or in my case £65 for a memo scan that covers ever other car make and model
you even need one of these to bleed the brakes on a Discovery 2
Click to expand...

A new record for thread revival....:p:p

Cheers
 
FIREAPPLIANCEMAN said:
you even need one of these to bleed the brakes on a Discovery 2
Click to expand...

2.jpeg
 
eightinavee said:
Who ever used a scan tool to bleed the brakes on a DII ?
Click to expand...
I did after i replaced the modulator(and i recommend it to everybody when fluid was out of the modulator)... there's no other way to get rid of the air trapped in the OV(outlet valves) circuit as they are actuated only by the ECU, the pedal works only through the IVs(inlet valves) so after a pedal bleed the pedal can be very good but any of the active braking modes(ABS/TC/HDC/EBD) can be affected by trapped air in the modulator and not perform 100% as they should... that's why many owners think that the TC or HDC is sh*t cos maybe they didnt power bleed the system after the fluid was out from the modulator or the master cylinder was replaced, then even though the warning light comes on as it should the effect in the calipers is downgraded by air left in the OV circuit within the modulator, a pedal bleed will get rid of air only from the Inlet/nr.12 valves which i painted in red for one side(the other side is the same) which will make the pedal firm and the mechanical braking perfect... air trapped in the circuit which works through the outlet/nr. 11 valves is opened only by electronic power bleed and can affect the pressure in the calipers in any of the active braking modes.

WABCO modulator 1 flow scheme.jpg
 
Last edited:
h
UNLOCK CODE FOR HAWKEYE (BA 5070)
Excl. Tax: £149.99Incl. Tax: £179.99
Part Number: BA 5075

Special Order Item

Vehicle Defender, Freelander, Discovery, Range Rover, Universal
Model Defender, Freelander 1 L314, Freelander 2 L359, Discovery 1, Discovery 3 L319, Discovery 4 L319, Range Rover L322, Range Rover P38, Range Rover Sport, Universal
Application Defender, Freelander 1 L314, Freelander 2 L359, Discovery 1, Discovery 3 L319, Discovery 4 L319, Range Rover L322, Range Rover P38, Range Rover Sport L3, Universal
Fitment N/A
Frame Size N/A
Fitting Instructions

  • Vehicle Defender, Freelander, Discovery, Range Rover, Universal
    Model Defender, Freelander 1 L314, Freelander 2 L359, Discovery 1, Discovery 3 L319, Discovery 4 L319, Range Rover L322, Range Rover P38, Range Rover Sport, Universal
    Application Defender, Freelander 1 L314, Freelander 2 L359, Discovery 1, Discovery 3 L319, Discovery 4 L319, Range Rover L322, Range Rover P38, Range Rover Sport L3, Universal
    Fitment N/A
    Frame Size N/A
    Fitting Instructions
hope that this will verifie the price for unlock code for each land rover model
 
FIREAPPLIANCEMAN said:
.... hope that this will verifie the price for unlock code for each land rover model....
Click to expand...
and what's the relevance of those expensive unlock codes since it appeard THIS tool ?
that's why i said that maybe it was a typo with an additional 0 in that stetement:
... to be able to cover all Land Rover models could cost as much as £3000...
Click to expand...
cos it's clearely visible that full coverage is achievable with less than £300 for the hawkeye total ... i doubt that in this situation somebody can be so stupid to pay for all those expensive unlock codes to get full coverage with a "classic" hawkeye for £3000 :confused:
 
sierrafery said:
and what's the relevance of those expensive unlock codes since it appeard THIS tool ?
that's why i said that maybe it was a typo with an additional 0 in that stetement: cos it's clearely visible that full coverage is achievable with less than £300 for the hawkeye total ... i doubt that in this situation somebody can be so stupid to pay for all those expensive unlock codes to get full coverage with a "classic" hawkeye for £3000 :confused:
Click to expand...
I don't understand his post either, apart from which it would appear that his list for the unlock codes doesn't include the Discovery 2.
 
sierrafery said:
I did after i replaced the modulator(and i recommend it to everybody when fluid was out of the modulator)... there's no other way to get rid of the air trapped in the OV(outlet valves) circuit as they are actuated only by the ECU, the pedal works only through the IVs(inlet valves) so after a pedal bleed the pedal can be very good but any of the active braking modes(ABS/TC/HDC/EBD) can be affected by trapped air in the modulator and not perform 100% as they should... that's why many owners think that the TC or HDC is sh*t cos maybe they didnt power bleed the system after the fluid was out from the modulator or the master cylinder was replaced, then even though the warning light comes on as it should the effect in the calipers is downgraded by air left in the OV circuit within the modulator, a pedal bleed will get rid of air only from the Inlet/nr.12 valves which i painted in red for one side(the other side is the same) which will make the pedal firm and the mechanical braking perfect... air trapped in the circuit which works through the outlet/nr. 11 valves is opened only by electronic power bleed and can affect the pressure in the calipers in any of the active braking modes.

View attachment 152022
Click to expand...
if you had a dry modulator, but isnt necessary for a caliper or master cylinder change
 
jamesmartin said:
if you had a dry modulator, but isnt necessary for a caliper or master cylinder change
Click to expand...
IMO ''dry'' is a bit exagerated cos air can get into the modulator even if it's not dry jut the fluid level got below it's entry ports or if air got into the lines between the master cylinder and modulator when the cylinder was replaced then first time you push the pedal that air goes into the modulator... about what's after the modulator(calipers included off course) i said the same that no need for power bleed
 
sierrafery said:
IMO ''dry'' is a bit exagerated cos air can get into the modulator even if it's not dry jut the fluid level got below it's entry ports or if air got into the lines between the master cylinder and modulator when the cylinder was replaced then first time you push the pedal that air goes into the modulator... about what's after the modulator(calipers included off course) i said the same that no need for power bleed
Click to expand...
if air can get in it can get out,i dare say there are times power bleed is needed but id think thats rare
 
I think i sustained my case well enough... IMO if air entered into the modulator for no matter what reason then power bleed is recommended cos there's no certainty it didnt get into the OV circuit too... though i agree that's quite rare if any work is done with care
 
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