P38A [RESOLVED!] P38 DSE non start - fuel issue

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Is the MIL light the injector spread one? If so yes, it does stay on the whole time.

Just been to see a Land Rover specialist who reckons it’s the glow relay but I’m not convinced as it’s getting power and clicks. Annoyingly his Nanocom is out on loan!
 
Is the MIL light the injector spread one? If so yes, it does stay on the whole time.

Just been to see a Land Rover specialist who reckons it’s the glow relay but I’m not convinced as it’s getting power and clicks. Annoyingly his Nanocom is out on loan!

Never come across it before. So everyone will know more when it is fixed. But looking at video power is being applied to glow lamp in a pulsed fashion only when cranking. So it is fair to assume that is because of voltage changes. Temp sensor is a lot cheaper than glow relay if it comes to change and fix method.
 
Thought the injector symbol was to indicate an injection system fault i.e. injector 4 faulty.

Thecheck engone (mil) light I think says Check Engine on it...but could be wrong.

Injector symbol is the MIL lamp on the diesel Ant. Petrol MIL symbol is a engine outline. Thinking out of the box the hotfix may have been fitted to overcome a faulty temp sensor. But it has failed. So back to square one. Some people think in strange ways and do strange things. Only supposition of course.
 
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Found this. Appears to be quite loose and there is a wire coming from this to the 4th injector so I’d assume this is the temp sensor?

14wsr9y.jpg
 
Found this. Appears to be quite loose and there is a wire coming from this to the 4th injector so I’d assume this is the temp sensor?

14wsr9y.jpg

No that is number four injector connection to loom. You are looking for a green temp sensor between and just below number three and four inlets on head. Looks like this. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-STC2299 Look at the sensor to the left of your finger in the photo.
 
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First off, that's injector symbol shouldn't be there, and when you turn the ignition on, the glow plug light should be on, with out cranking it over
 
First off, that's injector symbol shouldn't be there, and when you turn the ignition on, the glow plug light should be on, with out cranking it over

Yea, needs plugging in. Seriously struggling with that as due to a height restriction I can’t move the car and none of my local garages do mobile diag.

Brian very kindly came over to help the other day but it turns out his diag equipment is on the blink! Not having much luck but if anyone in Surrey can come and plug it in there is A LOT of beer coming your way!
 
Brian is back and between us managed to fix his rovacom. It’s now reading the air suspension but cannot read the Engine ECU. We’re now leaning towards ECU being dead... continuing to try
 
Brian is back and between us managed to fix his rovacom. It’s now reading the air suspension but cannot read the Engine ECU. We’re now leaning towards ECU being dead... continuing to try
Check the earth connection to the ECU, it has been known to fail. Add another one if you are not sure
 
Update time: after managing to fix the rovacom we couldn’t talk to the Ecu. Finally found that the engine cut out fuse was broke (Wasn’t initially).

Replaced that, rebuilt it and the glow lamps and check engine light are behaving as they should. Now it’s nearly starting, just too much air in the system so going through the process of bleeding it out. Unfortunately starter has been getting too hot so decided to call it a day before destroying the starter motor.

Fingers crossed tomorrow will be running!
 
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I live in surrey but dont have diesel diagnostics....... @Grrrrrr may have diagnostics, but not sure if he is available.

Sorry, I am in Cornwall at the moment and I have the Nanocom with me! Don't leave home without it!

I am watching the thread with interest though. Car might run on default values with #4 unplugged? Just thinking that might take a variable out of the mix but wait till Wammers says it is OK to do so.
 
Update time: after managing to fix the rovacom we couldn’t talk to the Ecu. Finally found that the engine cut out fuse was broke (Wasn’t initially).

Replaced that, rebuilt it and the glow lamps and check engine light are behaving as they should. Now it’s nearly starting, just too much air in the system so going through the process of bleeding it out. Unfortunately starter has been getting too hot so decided to call it a day before destroying the starter motor.

Fingers crossed tomorrow will be running!

Normally if there is air in the injector pipes you slacken then off at the ends (inlet manifold off) and crank it nipping them up as the fuel comes through.
 
Normally if there is air in the injector pipes you slacken then off at the ends (inlet manifold off) and crank it nipping them up as the fuel comes through.

That’s what we’re doing. Getting fuel through on most injectors now but the starter was getting too hot so called it a day as to not destroy the starter
 
That’s what we’re doing. Getting fuel through on most injectors now but the starter was getting too hot so called it a day as to not destroy the starter

That would be fuse 37 main engine control relay supply. Well done you are getting there. I would not refit the hot fix, if you need to do get a new one.
 
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