Other TDV6 2.7 turbo overboost fault

hi

wish to gain more understanding ref the turbo i didn’t know if by me sharing some information that i’ve since gathered if it may be useful to others ,

along with if that’s ok to pick the vast knowledge within this section please

i currently get intermittently an overboost issue, which i suspect is the VGT vane sticking

Engine TDV6

• P0234-00 (68) Turbo/supercharger overboost condition
  - Confirmed
  - Test Failed Since Last Clear
  - Test Not Completed This Monitoring Cycle

alas though i haven’t as of yet checked for any split hoses, nor full range of the actuator arm ,

no smoke and will go into limp mode just over 50mph

didn’t realise that u could buy the VGT vane assembly and cartridge

found an excellent post describing how to replace the turbo and got me thinking , as u look at the turbo if whilst in situ it could be split to gain access to the VGT vain assembly without having to remove the entire turbo

my forward plans are

1) to indeed double check for the full movement of the actuator arm, ( have had the software upgraded so it motors the actuator arm when i turn the ign on ) , clean and grease arm with ceramic grease after , then to check for any split hoses , no smoke

2) remove and replace the turbo intercooler hoses and whilst removed to use an endoscope to try and gain a better knowledge of the inside and if the VGT plate are full of carbon

3) if the plate is full of carbon to use a turbo cleaner or oven cleaner

4) see if there’s any end float on the bearings

these are the links ,etc , i’ve found which i hope may help in one way or another

brief description how a VTG turbo works

https://paultan.org/2006/08/16/how-does-variable-turbine-geometry-work/


replacing turbo

https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic80761.html

cartridge

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turbocharger-CHRA-Core-Cartridge-Land-Rover-Discovery-Range-Rover-2-7-TdV6-/331232190871?clk_rvr_id=1512018602425&rmvSB=true&ul_ref=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F710-53481-19255-0%2F1%3Fpub%3D5575131138%26toolid%3D10001%26campid%3D5337717012%26customid%3D%26mpt%3D3172450%26mpre%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%252Fitm%252FTurbocharger-CHRA-Core-Cartridge-Land-Rover-Discovery-Range-Rover-2-7-TdV6-%252F331232190871%26srcrot%3D710-53481-19255-0%26rvr_id%3D1512018602425%26rvr_ts%3D03640c9b1630a86045601cbcfffffe06&ul_noapp=true

VGT nozzle plate

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Discovery-Range-Rover-2-7TD-53049700069-Turbocharger-Nozzle-Ring-VNT-/322483535418?clk_rvr_id=1512010103632&rmvSB=true&ul_ref=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F710-53481-19255-0%2F1%3Fpub%3D5575131138%26toolid%3D10001%26campid%3D5337717012%26customid%3D%26mpt%3D3354982%26mpre%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%252Fitm%252FLand-Rover-Discovery-Range-Rover-2-7TD-53049700069-Turbocharger-Nozzle-Ring-VNT-%252F322483535418%26srcrot%3D710-53481-19255-0%26rvr_id%3D1512010103632%26rvr_ts%3D0364a64f1630aa42deb2f9e3fffffd11&ul_noapp=true

freeing off turbo actuator arm



also thought the picture was good , showing how there suppose to move

Hi, not sure if yours works in a similar way to the smaller one fitted to my old 04 Freelander td4 but I had something similar, couple of hours fiddling I found a split in the vacuum pipe under a clip, which in my case meant that the variable vanes weren’t getting a full deflection, anyway replaced the pipe and a spray of wd on the actuator arms coupled with a bit of yanking until I got full movement back she then ran fine, I think the split had been there that long that the vanes had become carbon locked due to limited movement hence the yanking back and forth.
Phil

sheriff said:

Hi, not sure if yours works in a similar way to the smaller one fitted to my old 04 Freelander td4 but I had something similar, couple of hours fiddling I found a split in the vacuum pipe under a clip, which in my case meant that the variable vanes weren’t getting a full deflection, anyway replaced the pipe and a spray of wd on the actuator arms coupled with a bit of yanking until I got full movement back she then ran fine, I think the split had been there that long that the vanes had become carbon locked due to limited movement hence the yanking back and forth.
Phil

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hi and thks, this particular turbo isn’t controlled by vacuum but by an electronic actuator, however indeed as the actuator arm is moved it should move those vanes

next week i will be carrying on replacing my front air struts so will continue to remove further panels etc to gain better access to the turbo and can then at least see if that actuator arm is nice and free along with the main turbo intercooler hoses , bought silicone ones as there replacement along with decent T bolt clamps

have blanked both the egrs and the can only imagine how much junk is inside those vanes, seeing and hearing a.l., different ideas, ie putting turbo cleaner in the fuel tank, using oven cleaner etc

at least in once sense in a few weeks time will know a lot more what i’m dealing with , so have been trying to find out in the interim as much detail as i can

including if required , the turbo casing can be split in situ or removable to replace the VGT vanes and cartridge or recon turbo ???

thks again

I have also blocked off my EGR and have fitted the resistor to clear the MIL light but if the EGR valve is stuck open then the resistor trick does not work but I have also plugged in a new EGR valve but just taped it to one side without actually fitting it and that seem to work. As for cleaning fluid i used a spay into the manifold to try and clear some carbon build up and the spray is a mostly acetone based solvent. I also cleaned the MAP sensor with an electrical cleaner which is also acetone based so it might be a cheaper way to go is use acetone on your turbo to clear the carbon

ovalandrover said:

I have also blocked off my EGR and have fitted the resistor to clear the MIL light but if the EGR valve is stuck open then the resistor trick does not work but I have also plugged in a new EGR valve but just taped it to one side without actually fitting it and that seem to work. As for cleaning fluid i used a spay into the manifold to try and clear some carbon build up and the spray is a mostly acetone based solvent. I also cleaned the MAP sensor with an electrical cleaner which is also acetone based so it might be a cheaper way to go is use acetone on your turbo to clear the carbon

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thks, mines a pre 2007 so don’t have to worry about the egr patch, did also of course removed the butterfly valve, removed and cleaned the MAP sensor , alas i know it doesn’t affect u ref the mot regs but i’ve got to reinstall my egr pipes , got some 3mm egr plates which i’m going to hide between the block and pipes

took me ages to clean out the throttle body of junk

have heard oven cleaner is suppose to be very effective, or the forbes turbo cleaner in the fuel tank for clearing carbon,, thks , will check that out ref acetone

also must check the feed and turbo drain pipes to ensure there nice and clear

indeed it’s being able to get the spray onto the VGT vanes, another reason i was thinking about the forbes turbo cleaner in the tank so it can go through the system

thks again and great being able to get so much info into one thread

I’ve just been through removing a turbo from a TD6 RR, disassembling it which was the hardest part and cleaning the vanes as the actuator was stuck solid. The TD6 is vacuum operated. I replaced a faulty map sensor, a dodgy actuator solenoid valve and a turbo pipe that had split.
That was also presenting the overboost code and I still had to back of the actuator arm length to stop it faulting on a really hard up hill push.

There are some cheap turbo cartridges on Ebay from China that are ok if you just want a cheap fix and to tuck up the next owner but a half decent one is going to be £200 - £300 or better still send the whole turbo to be refurbished and reset at somebody like turbo technics I would say

holidaychicken said:

I’ve just been through removing a turbo from a TD6 RR, disassembling it which was the hardest part and cleaning the vanes as the actuator was stuck solid. The TD6 is vacuum operated. I replaced a faulty map sensor, a dodgy actuator solenoid valve and a turbo pipe that had split.
That was also presenting the overboost code and I still had to back of the actuator arm length to stop it faulting on a really hard up hill push.

There are some cheap turbo cartridges on Ebay from China that are ok if you just want a cheap fix and to tuck up the next owner but a half decent one is going to be £200 - £300 or better still send the whole turbo to be refurbished and reset at somebody like turbo technics I would say

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hi and thks , does look like the more i read up the more it’s pointing towards stuck vanes due to carbon build up

are the vanes in the middle of the turbo please , also when i can get the hoses off i will be borrowing an endoscope so at least i can try and look how bad it is

will be keeping this long term as i originally bought this as a project and spent some serious amount of time going through it from one end to the other so indeed once i’m in a better position of finding out exactly whats wrong with if necessary take the turbo out and get it reconditioned, looks like i can get it all down for around £500

at least it’s fine around town and next week will be starting on my to do list , which i’ve already bought

finish off replacing front struts , drops links , ARB bushes for front and rear, rear complete upper wishbones, oils for engine, ATF , transfer, diffs etc

air compressors inlet silencer and inlet filter, upgraded spare wheel winch

once then it’s all done the mot is due 27th july , can then after that date sort out what ever is req for the turbo, but wondering in the mean time of running a few tanks of forbes turbo cleaner through the system ,

didn’t release both the egrs are both water cooled and alas how much junk is still in the system, egrs are blanked but if i need to remove them to clean them out or simply allow the turbo cleaner to get rid of the carbon

lastly i did get an updated software program to cycle the actuator arm every time i turn the ign on

these were some of the readings i got ref the maf and injectors

holidaychicken said:

I’ve just been through removing a turbo from a TD6 RR, disassembling it which was the hardest part and cleaning the vanes as the actuator was stuck solid. The TD6 is vacuum operated. I replaced a faulty map sensor, a dodgy actuator solenoid valve and a turbo pipe that had split.
That was also presenting the overboost code and I still had to back of the actuator arm length to stop it faulting on a really hard up hill push.

There are some cheap turbo cartridges on Ebay from China that are ok if you just want a cheap fix and to tuck up the next owner but a half decent one is going to be £200 - £300 or better still send the whole turbo to be refurbished and reset at somebody like turbo technics I would say

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just seen ur in kent , what diagnostics do u use please and if ur ever passing i’ve always got the kettle on or need a hand

gstuart said:

just seen ur in kent , what diagnostics do u use please and if ur ever passing i’ve always got the kettle on or need a hand

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gstuart said:

just seen ur in kent , what diagnostics do u use please and if ur ever passing i’ve always got the kettle on or need a hand

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I think we are talking a TDv6 here and they are bastards to access anything. I know they are on my disco 3.
If you spay manofold cleaner directly into manifold some of it might reach the turbo I know mine smoked like it was making a hole in the ozone layer and put a fine coating of carbon over everything so do it outdoors

I have finally received my Nanacom which was posted to me by a friend in South Africa but it set up for defender with puma engine so have to buy the unlock codes for my Disco 3 and P38 EDC as well as the cables. the good news is i dont have to pay VAT as im in Australia and its under 1000$

ovalandrover said:

I think we are talking a TDv6 here and they are bastards to access anything. I know they are on my disco 3.
If you spay manofold cleaner directly into manifold some of it might reach the turbo I know mine smoked like it was making a hole in the ozone layer and put a fine coating of carbon over everything so do it outdoors

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indeed mine is the TDV6 and agree access is rather on the restrictive side, nothing like a challenge, lol

hoses will be coming off the turbo as i’ve got some new silicone ones and been reading some more and looks like the best thing is to spray into the turbo and then use some turbo cleaner after that goes into the fuel tank

ovalandrover said:

I have finally received my Nanacom which was posted to me by a friend in South Africa but it set up for defender with puma engine so have to buy the unlock codes for my Disco 3 and P38 EDC as well as the cables. the good news is i dont have to pay VAT as im in Australia and its under 1000$

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haven’t got any experience with the nanacom, must admit very pleased with the gap iid i bought and think with these vehicles its an essential bit of kit

is good u don’t have to pay the vat , seems a lot of readers now are locked to the vehicle type unless spending out some serious cash for multi vehicle use

ovalandrover said:

I think we are talking a TDv6 here and they are bastards to access anything. I know they are on my disco 3.
If you spay manofold cleaner directly into manifold some of it might reach the turbo I know mine smoked like it was making a hole in the ozone layer and put a fine coating of carbon over everything so do it outdoors

Click to expand...

another thing i’ve thought was ref the egrs on mine , got to reinstall the egr pipes for this new mot and whether to use some exhaust or high temp RTV instant gasket sealer to install the small egr blanks , will fit them between the pipes and engine block

just found these great pics ref the VGT vanes , so at least i now know where that plate is located

gstuart said:

just seen ur in kent , what diagnostics do u use please and if ur ever passing i’ve always got the kettle on or need a hand

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I’m using a faultmate extreme msv2 which has live data which is ok, I’m talking 2006 Range Rover with the 3.0 TD6 bmw engine, you have a Disco 3 don’t you ? Is your actuator electronic or vacuum ?
I tried massaging the actuator but mine was solid and also 3 bottles of in take turbo cleaner which did nothing and even when the turbo was off but I couldn’t separate it the mr muscle cleaner still didn’t free it.
If you have disco or sport I think its enhine our to remove the turbo.
I’d be checking all your pipes as you say to start and operate the actuator to see if it moves freely

holidaychicken said:

I’m using a faultmate extreme msv2 which has live data which is ok, I’m talking 2006 Range Rover with the 3.0 TD6 bmw engine, you have a Disco 3 don’t you ? Is your actuator electronic or vacuum ?
I tried massaging the actuator but mine was solid and also 3 bottles of in take turbo cleaner which did nothing and even when the turbo was off but I couldn’t separate it the mr muscle cleaner still didn’t free it.
If you have disco or sport I think its enhine our to remove the turbo.
I’d be checking all your pipes as you say to start and operate the actuator to see if it moves freely

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apologises , yes indeed ref the different engine

mine has the electronic actuator

wonder after the egrs are blanked if it stops the turbos from getting full of carbon again once either cleaned or replaced , plse

whilst working on the front strut replacement i think the best way forward is indeed removing the old turbo intercooler hoses and also check the full operation of the actuator arm

have got some penetrating ceramic oil to spray it on the actuator to ensure it’s free , will clean the arm as well with a small wire brush , then after , apply some ceramic grease

will also have the use of an endoscope so at least can see the condition inside of the turbo and then go from there

also wondering if it’s worth blowing some air through the intercooler to ensure it’s all nice and clean

what was ur sentence please ref the turbo , thks

“ If you have disco or sport I think its enhine our to remove the turbo.”

Sorry it should read engine out !
You can see your manifold pressure on your live data which might help but I’m not familiar with your turbo but it will be similar VGT idea just electronic actuator.
Mine being seized was all internal but I have read about the success of moving the actuator on the later RR diesels
If it’s the same system on yours you could try cleaning your map but I would say if yours I’m going into limp over 50 you will have an obvious fault somewhere like a split

holidaychicken said:

Sorry it should read engine out !
You can see your manifold pressure on your live data which might help but I’m not familiar with your turbo but it will be similar VGT idea just electronic actuator.
Mine being seized was all internal but I have read about the success of moving the actuator on the later RR diesels
If it’s the same system on yours you could try cleaning your map but I would say if yours I’m going into limp over 50 you will have an obvious fault somewhere like a split

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thks, no engine doesn’t need to come out can be done also with the body on , here’s a good description about getting the turbo out , https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic80761.html

after blanking both egrs i then removed the butterfly valve from the throttle body , then cleaned the Map sensor at the same time

found out the turbo is a VGT borg and warner kkk BV50

might be really lucky and after moving the actuator arm might free up the junk in the VGT vanes, could a split hose cause an overboost issue then please

once i start working in it , will try my best and get some pics and post them up here

found these 2 x pics , u can just just the turbo where the blue pipe is

if it does need a new turbo will do the work myself and wouldn’t be bothered if it took me a month as at least then it saves a few grand from the robbing dealership, lol

how access on the L322 for the turbo please

thks again for great info and don’t forget if ur this way please feel free to pop in for a cuppa

Cool thanks for the cuppa invite, the 3.0 TD6 turbo is easy to remove when you know how. There is a youtube vid of somebody taking the inlet manifold off which is not the way to do it according to rave.
I added some pics to this old thread
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td6-turbo-change-how-too.253209/

holidaychicken said:

Cool thanks for the cuppa invite, the 3.0 TD6 turbo is easy to remove when you know how. There is a youtube vid of somebody taking the inlet manifold off which is not the way to do it according to rave.
I added some pics to this old thread
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td6-turbo-change-how-too.253209/

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ur welcome and always nice meeting other LZ members , along with ever helping out

checked that out and indeed doesn’t look too bad replacing the TD6 turbo , dread to think what a turbo replacement is like for some of the V8s

suppose one blessing is i haven’t got to mess around taking the body off, have treated the chassis inside and out with dinotrol , but see with the D3s the chassis there not renowned for rusting , not like the earlier discoveries

as i’ve been removing the plastic inner wheel arch liners i’ve been spraying in there as well

before i bought the D3 i had also looked at some L322 but ins was a killer , wanted really to get the 4.4 litre with LPG but alas couldn’t find any, as i believe it’s suppose to be better than the 3.6???