Gearbox Oil

I have a 2002 Disco 2 td5. I changed my gearbox oil about 10k ago to MTF94. There was quite a bit of fur on the plug magnetic but since I don't know how long it had been since the oil was changed so I thought I would reserve judgement until the next oil change. After the oil change it was better but was still a bit notchy, when cold, as it changed into 2nd so I decided to put some 75/90 semi synthetic in to see how that would work. Unfortunately there was fur again on the plug and the changing got worst I think I will put some mtf94 back in.

What oil do others use in their R380?

How different is it to change the gearbox yourself? I don't have an engine crane and the drive is on a slope so would rather leave the engine in place. Can I take off the prop shafts, transfer box and do it that way? Is this a job for an immediate wrench?

The MTF94 is the best as long as it's genuine not some cheap replica, if with that one you have gear change issues don't try to fix it with other kind of oils but find out what's the problem cos it's certainly not oil related, it might be the plastic pivot bush, or yoke, or bias plate of the selector assy or something else worn in the box, you'll not fix a worn or cracked part by changing the oil

I put ATF in mine and it become better (more smooth between 1-2-3). Also recommended by Ashcroft:
What oil should I use in my R380 gearbox?
The oil recommended by Land Rover is MTF94. However we have recently found this oil to give better results ATF
But Fery is right. If you have mechanical problem, oil will not solve it.
Regarding on changing the gearbox alone....I have just done on mine (actually it was a part of a bigger overhaul). I lifted my car about 20cms by using wooden blocks, prepared special tools for lifting-lowering Tbox and gearbox, and lots of bear to manage my nerve
I did everithing alone, so really a pain, first time. Second time, as I know how to do, will be much more easy.

Maybe some alternatives can be better in UK but when it's below -15*C nothing works like the genuine MTF94, i've tried 6 kind of so called good alternatives then had to drain them after a week cos it was a nightmare to select low gears from cold

sierrafery said:

Maybe some alternatives can be better in UK but when it's below -15*C nothing works like the genuine MTF94, i've tried 6 kind of so called good alternatives then had to drain them after a week cos it was a nightmare to select low gears from cold

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I changed my oil about a month ago and drove the car in -10*C (the first 200kms) and found better than before. But I think it also depends on the actual condition of the gearbox.

berg450 said:

I changed my oil about a month ago and drove the car in -10*C (the first 200kms) and found better than before. But I think it also depends on the actual condition of the gearbox.

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I agree... and also depends on how old was the other oil and if it was genuine or not, cos if it was a very old fake MTF94 it's normal to be better with any new ATF... also wait untill the summer and see how hot the central console will be at +30*C after a long run, cos that's another temperature which is not specific for UK so i doubt that Ashcroft tried that too... i oberved that on differebnt than MTF94 the console was hotter as well

Thank you. I've going to put some MTF94 back in. At least an oil change will have flushed the gearbox out so can't be a bad thing.

neilEbardsley said:

Thank you. I've going to put some MTF94 back in. At least an oil change will have flushed the gearbox out so can't be a bad thing.

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Getting the correct grade of lubrication is important. However, just as important is changing it regularly.
I change the engine oil and filters every year and the transmission fluids, G/box, T/box and axles every two years.
I don't know whether that's excessive or not, but if it is the only thing that suffers damage is my wallet.

When I had my td5 I ran the difflock syn gearbox oil in it, very good and sorted out the crunchy gearcange into 2nd once and for all, dear but worth it.

lynall said:

When I had my td5 I ran the difflock syn gearbox oil in it, very good and sorted out the crunchy gearcange into 2nd once and for all, dear but worth it.

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but when you had it was the genuine MTF94 in it before that difflock oil?

Land Rover's MTF94 oil is produced by Texaco, Difflock's product is from the same producer, just rebadged and more expensive.
Some people pay more for the same product... that life

sierrafery said:

but when you had it was the genuine MTF94 in it before that difflock oil?

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Tbh I dont know, but the difflock gear cleared up the crunch into 2nd going up and down the box and I then drove it another 50k with no issues, well on the gearbox anyway!
It was quite low mileage and had only been serviced by land rover, I know that doesnt mean much but I would hazard a guess it still had the factory filll oil in it, whatever that might have been?

It was quite a few years ago now, the car was a 2001 and I bought it in 2005.
One of the few cars I actually regret selling

discool said:

Land Rover's MTF94 oil is produced by Texaco, Difflock's product is from the same producer, just rebadged and more expensive.
Some people pay more for the same product... that life

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I think we need more info as saying texaco supply difflock their oil doesnt mean its the same spec oil, unless you know different?

Just quick price/spec check,
MTF94 10 quid a litre, no mention of the word synthetic
Difflock evo stuff 27 quid a litre, mentions the word synthetic

I think I’ll put the the stuff Ashcroft recommend in the R380 next time round