Removing screw in wheel studs

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Starkers

Starkers

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27
Location
Lincolnshire
Can anyone give me a few tips for removing wheel studs that screw into the hub? Pic attached.

Thanks in advance.

Rob
 

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If you just try and bully them out you will damage the threads as the crimped bit is forced through.
A large blacksmiths drill bit can be used to carefully remove the crimp then lock two nuts on.
Are the studs beyond use.
 
Agree re above, you need to get the punched part of the stud off before you wind it out through the hub. You may be able to gind a punch to fit so you can hit the straked part back. When I did this I used a Dremel to grind them off. If the thread has had it you can drill out the hole to 16 mm and fit a press in S3 M16 type but you have to make a recess for the head, I think its 11/16 x 3/32 deep. The 16mm stud will fit most drums as they only seem to sell drums with 16mm holes now. I've done one of my hubs (one had been done so I had odd nuts on one axle) and its not a bad job, you just need a bench drill, some blacksmiths drills and some spare nuts to pull the new studs in.
 
Thanks all for the useful advice. My new project has had several uncareful owners who have botched most jobs they've attempted. It's time the old girl had a bit of love. The hubs are fitted with three different types of wheel stud. Three different studs in one hub on the rear O/S corner! Maybe not unnecessary to swap the good ones but I'll never be happy until they all match.
 
I did one whole hub as I had a simialar situation with mixed studs on one hub and one already done on the same axle. It is posible to do it all with the hub in-situe but not well. to do it properly you want the hub on a pillar drill to get it square and you need to drill the recesses for the heads of the press-in studs. I pays to drill the drum at the same time but as all the replacment drums seem to have the larger holes now its unlikely to be necessary. You can fit S3 hubs and be done with it but I found fitting the S3 studs in the S2A hubs works perfectly well and I think its stronger than the std S2A set up with threaded studs.
 
rob1miles said:
Agree re above, you need to get the punched part of the stud off before you wind it out through the hub. You may be able to gind a punch to fit so you can hit the straked part back. When I did this I used a Dremel to grind them off. If the thread has had it you can drill out the hole to 16 mm and fit a press in S3 M16 type but you have to make a recess for the head, I think its 11/16 x 3/32 deep. The 16mm stud will fit most drums as they only seem to sell drums with 16mm holes now. I've done one of my hubs (one had been done so I had odd nuts on one axle) and its not a bad job, you just need a bench drill, some blacksmiths drills and some spare nuts to pull the new studs in.
Click to expand...
Rob, I'm doing the same job on my mate's SIIA, can you please clarify why I need to recess the heads on the press-in splined studs? There seems to be plenty of clearance on the back of the hub.
Thanks, Chris
 
The Incubus said:
Rob, I'm doing the same job on my mate's SIIA, can you please clarify why I need to recess the heads on the press-in splined studs? There seems to be plenty of clearance on the back of the hub.
Thanks, Chris
Click to expand...
You only need to recess if the studs will be short on the other side. It’s worth setting it up with a wheel on to see how things fit. The threads should come right through the nut a few turns.

Other than that you can spray a big dollop of weld in the back so they don’t budge.
 
As above, if you don't put a small recess in they can be too short. The splines seem to bite well so they don't turn once they are pulled in and you can put plenty of locktite on just to be sure.
 
I have exactly the same issue with my S3 which has had S2a hubs fitted in the past. (Also a S2a gearbox and an ENV rear axle, but they are other stories). My drum stud holes are a bit tight for M16, but I'm picking there's no major issue with drilling them out a touch bigger? My hubs have very short studs which only go about halfway through the nuts, so I'm intending to pull them all out, drill out to 16 mm and pull new studs in with a reversed nut. One of the studs snapped off when I removed the wheels so this was always a job that was going to need doing. Disc brake conversion going onto the front, so at least I only have to deal with the rear axle!
 
There are different stud lenghts, the std stud is too short unless you put the recess in, there ae longer studs that work out right without a recess that are I belive the ones for the wolf wheels, they are about 1/4" longer, then there are much longer ones that are about 3/4" too long but you could cut them down. The problem is price, the short ones are cheap, the slightly longer ones are ridiculously expensive if you can find any.
 
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