Track rod ball joint separator

Need a scissor type splitter to get the track rod end ball joints off. Any recommendations for one that’s big and strong enough to do the job? Thanks

Hammer....bang....off.

I have always had good results with a good sized hammer.....

If you really need a splitter - a cheap Halfords one is not up to it, get a decent version from a reputable company.

If your removing the original factory fitted unit then u may need something like this.
But if the joint has been replaced before, at hard and quick tap on the side of the joint could release it.
Draper have a good item it could last u for ever, but not the cheapest.

I've got a Sykes Pickavant, but it's rarely needed, you need to direct the hammer blows on the cast steering arm, not the ball joint.

myfirstl322 said:

I've got a Sykes Pickavant, but it's rarely needed, you need to direct the hammer blows on the cast steering arm, not the ball joint.

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I know where u mean that is why I stated joint and not ball joint which I expect would do nothing.

discool said:

If your removing the original factory fitted unit then u may need something like this.
But if the joint has been replaced before, at hard and quick tap on the side of the joint could release it.
Draper have a good item it could last u for ever, but not the cheapest.

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Ive got 2 snap on ones like these does the job every time with ease, probably way too expensive if your
not in the trade but has proven there worth over the years, beats smashing the beans out of ball joins with
a 5lb hammer even though you smile inside when it goes

discool said:

I know where u mean that is why I stated joint and not ball joint which I expect would do nothing.

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Clear as mud.......

kevstar said:

Ive got 2 snap on ones like these does the job every time with ease, probably way too expensive if your
not in the trade but has proven there worth over the years, beats smashing the beans out of ball joins with
a 5lb hammer even though you smile inside when it goes

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It does pay to get a good quality tools as they don't break, my ball joint separator is at least 40 years old and Ive only used it three times, once when I got it and around 4 years ago to replace the joints on my disco over a weekend

That’s where i’be been going wrong! Read somewhere putting a jack underneath the joint can work?

Even better, 2 x 2.5lb hammers............one each side simultaneously. (on the cast steering arm)

Yes, jack up on it a little if you like, if it fits from above.

cpa said:

That’s where i’be been going wrong! Read somewhere putting a jack underneath the joint can work?

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That's to try and stop the ball joint turning when turning the nut, and it works.

Thanks for all the tips.

discool said:

It does pay to get a good quality tools as they don't break, my ball joint separator is at least 40 years old and Ive only used it three times, once when I got it and around 4 years ago to replace the joints on my disco over a weekend

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I'm a mechanic to trade & only bought mac & snap on tools when I was serving my time. I seen the local snap on dealer
on Tuesday for a ratchet service & a broken torque which of course was completely free

If that was any other brand it would have been in the bin & off to get replacements hence why I still buy the best tools

Don't draper have a returns policy( yep very small writing) & only if you have not miss used it.

The scissor type is best (as Illustrated) but if the joint is going to be replaced you can get a tool which looks like a forked chisel. I have two, one about a foot long an another about two and a half feet long which is more useful as you don't have to be cramped in the wheelarch etc and gives you more room to use the hammer on it. It completely rogers the rubber gaiter though but it is very successful. And cheaper.

Fergie46 said:

The scissor type is best (as Illustrated) but if the joint is going to be replaced you can get a tool which looks like a forked chisel. I have two, one about a foot long an another about two and a half feet long which is more useful as you don't have to be cramped in the wheelarch etc and gives you more room to use the hammer on it. It completely rogers the rubber gaiter though but it is very successful. And cheaper.

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if your going to refit the joint the hammer method is the only one that doesnt effect the boot or joint

If you're careful with the scissor type - push the narrow end of rubber boot down & use a bit of lubrication to aid putting the tool on then you shouldn't damage the boot. Done plenty on different vehicles & - so far! - haven't damaged one.

Ratae said:

If you're careful with the scissor type - push the narrow end of rubber boot down & use a bit of lubrication to aid putting the tool on then you shouldn't damage the boot. Done plenty on different vehicles & - so far! - haven't damaged one.

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the amount of pressure usually effects the ball and socket joint might not be noticeable straight away

jamesmartin said:

the amount of pressure usually effects the ball and socket joint might not be noticeable straight away

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I don't understand your point James - the scissor type doesn't put any load on the ball joint and cup - the load is only applied to the end of the threaded section of the shaft of the ball pin and the outer part of the taper. The only possible forms of damage to the joint is to the last thread on the shaft of the ball pin, and that's unlikely if the tool is on square, and damage to the boot if the tool is fitted clumsily.