Disco 2 Which Engine...

Heey, so I currently have 3 disco 2's, two of them being donars. Im going to do a full rebuild in the near future, taking my best chassis and having it galvanized, and putting my new body on that.
Now engines im not too sure which to use, I have my current engine in my new one, which has 200k on it, its a 15P (2003) BUT, it gives out a fair bit of white smoke in the cold when on the accelerator until its warmed up a bit. I thought it wasn't a head gasket issue but now just checking the coolant it looks like its lost maybe 2cm of the tank in a month.. but the injector harness and ECU plug are also very oily so didn't know if that could cause smoking. Don't think its loosing oil.
Secondly I have my previous disco's engine, which is a 10P 2002, which has 170k on it and runs pretty sweet. Only problem is when cold starting for about a second it idles very low then goes up to the correct high idle. Although when I did put the Hawkeye on it just said some bad temp/air sensor or something, can't remember. Runs really nice otherwise as I've taken care of it. Is the difference between 10 and 15p a big deal?
Thirdly, I have my first disco's engine, which although from a 2003 disco I don't know if it is a 10 or 15p engine as it was replaced with a 90k engine and not entirely sure where to look for the "code"
This one however I have left the rocker cover off for a few months and rain did get in, so there is surface rust under the rocker cover around the injectors etc, and probably water in the oil. It also has a pretty big oil leak, what I think was from the oil filter housing to the engine block gasket.

Also, does it matter if its from an auto or manual box? as the 10p was from an auto and I've gone back to manual.

Also thinking of getting the gearbox refurbed, if anyone knows the best place to get an exchange unit or similar would be appreciated.

Ashcroft transmissions is where to get your g-box
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/

I don't have enough knowledge of the td5 engine so cant comment

But if I was going to all that bother replacing the chassis & body plus a recon box
id just rebuild one of the engine's rather than just chuck one in.

Cheers Kev

Overhaul the 15P

MJI said:

Overhaul the 15P

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Ah well it just so happens, my previous engine which I said was a 10P may well be a 15p, the engine stamp seems.. pretty unreadable but..
It (did) have a water cooled EGR, with 2 vacuum hoses, and to my knowledge the 10p wasn't water cooled EGR and only had 1 vacuum? Correct me if im wrong.
It was infact a very late 2002, December I believe. It also (had) a cat.

Jamiegreen said:

Ah well it just so happens, my previous engine which I said was a 10P may well be a 15p, the engine stamp seems.. pretty unreadable but..
It (did) have a water cooled EGR, with 2 vacuum hoses, and to my knowledge the 10p wasn't water cooled EGR and only had 1 vacuum? Correct me if im wrong.
It was infact a very late 2002, December I believe. It also (had) a cat.

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Sounds like a 15P

15ps came, in the UK, with water cooled egr and cat, so it's looking like that. Have a look at the v5, it will be indicative of the engine,

The engine number of course starts 10,15 or 16.

Ah great, so just wondering as I can't plug my Hawkeye in, I've already sold the mapped ECU, and I can't remember the fault code. Any idea what sensor would cause it to idle low for maybe a second, then quickly go up to the proper high idle for a cold start. So some sort of temp sensor I'd imagine, what tells the engine the external temp for it to work out how high to idle?
Thanks

four to look at then, AAP sensor (top of the airbox, on the left side as you look in) will be either 3 wire or 4 wire (later models are 4), MAF, MAP sensor and coolant temp sensor,

i am sure the IAT is the one in the top of the intake manifold (take off the plastics, middle of the log intake manifold), might need a gentle clean with some electronic component cleaner, especially if you still have the EGR fitted it can get quite covered in ****e from the oil being recirculated by the crank case breather and the soot from the EGR..

do NOT stick anything in the hole

Toseland said:

four to look at then, AAP sensor (top of the airbox, on the left side as you look in) will be either 3 wire or 4 wire (later models are 4), MAF, MAP sensor and coolant temp sensor,

i am sure the IAT is the one in the top of the intake manifold (take off the plastics, middle of the log intake manifold), might need a gentle clean with some electronic component cleaner, especially if you still have the EGR fitted it can get quite covered in ****e from the oil being recirculated by the crank case breather and the soot from the EGR..

do NOT stick anything in the hole

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Great thanks, will check them out when it's running again.

The IAT is also a pressure (boost measure. As said remove it, two small bolts, clean with brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner toget rid of all the muck , let it dry, do NOT air blow it dry, and refit. Hopefully should make a difference.
On the EU3 (15P) engines the 4 wire AAT/P is vital to correct fuelling for the ECU, so clean carefully.

Tony