P38A Replacement key and fob

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Don't go anywhere near a generic "key specialist" that messes with the BECM. Only Marty & a few others on here have the correct BECM tools. In any case it still requires genuine P38 key fobs.

If the BECM is original then the main stealer should be able to order the correct key. If they cannot then find a better LR dealer. If the BECM has been changed then you need Marty or the other chaps to find the correct key details for you.
 
BlackDogZulu said:
Great knowledge here!

I’m pretty sure that what the dealer told me was true. The guy admitted that they don’t really understand the system and that they prefer to sub any work out to an independent. I can well believe they bricked a BeCM through incompetence. (And I can well believe that this could scrap an older P38, if you think of replacing BeCM and all door locks etc with new ones at dealer labour rates.) It’s one of those dealers where the customer base is school run mums and local solicitors. You never see a Landy older than 2-3 years there, never mind a Series or Defender. All the enthusiasts use independents or DIY and wouldn’t be seen dead there. He was basically scaring me with horror stories because he didn’t want the work, but I understood that. Dealer was first base to get the lie of the land, now I have a couple of phone numbers of people who do this stuff routinely and can go ahead.

Thanks everyone for the info and advice.
Click to expand...

Only the main dealer can order you a key from Huf and they'll want proof of ownership = V5C plus ID.
 
Update: picked up the motor yesterday. A few small issues, but mostly good and I am pleased with it. The (only) key has a label 'Key 2', which helps a bit. When I got it home I found out that the remote locking isn't working (didn't check on test drive, don't tell me). There is no light from the fob when I press the button, and the battery port is jammed shut - which is probably the reason no one has bothered replacing the battery. The slot is badly chewed (again, didn't spot this) which suggests someone has tried quite hard to get in there. I don't want to damage the fob further, so I might wait until I see the specialist about the new key and ask his advice. The C/L works fine on the key, though, so it's not hugely important.
 
That’s a relief, thank you. Will follow those up. To remove the old one, I think I will have to use a couple of tacks in a length of wood and put the fob in a vice. Trying to remove it with a sharp point and tapping it round has failed totally. I was in the point of destroying it, so those links are very helpful. Cheers.
 
BlackDogZulu said:
That’s a relief, thank you. Will follow those up. To remove the old one, I think I will have to use a couple of tacks in a length of wood and put the fob in a vice. Trying to remove it with a sharp point and tapping it round has failed totally. I was in the point of destroying it, so those links are very helpful. Cheers.
Click to expand...

My key still has the original battery from when I bought it for that very reason. I tried to replace the battery and it just chewed the hatch. Still working though!

Check the previous owner hasn't unplugged the RF receiver to try and stop battery drain.
 
When I removed my battery hatch I had to resort to using a small chisel, by the time it bit I to the plastic to turn I almost had no cover left, but I went in expecting that very outcome. I removed the old knackered buttons before starting so it would sit flush on the bench.
 
I had it in a vice, with a bradawl in the hatch and knocking it round with a mallet. Nothing. When I have the kit I will try again with a bit more brutality. Do you have to split the unit to get the buttons out or can it be done from the ‘outside’?
 
The button cover pulls out from the front, you don't want to be trying to split the fob in two its easily damaged inside if your not very careful.
 
Update: key fob repair kit arrived today. New buttons fitted, and new batteries installed. Golly that hatch is stiff! I have chewed up th new one just getting it closed. Never mind, though. I got the red light flashing with the buttons. It didn’t do anything to the car at first, but I followed Marty’s instructions above (unlock while pressing the lock button) and it is now working fine. I can open the car from about 20 ft away, so I am assuming the RF antenna is connected.

Many thanks to Marty for the method, and to Mozz for patiently explaining it all over the phone. My next step is to order the new key. I’m having an operation on Saturday which will stop me driving for about six weeks, so I will do what I can I over the phone and sort it all out when I am fit again. Thanks all.
 
Good news the remote works now, yes it looks like the receiver is connected if you have problems with the battery going flat we can sort that out cheep, good luck with the op hope it all goes to plan.
 
Just a word on this. Don't forget to apply a little Vaseline or silicone grease to the rubber and contact points to make it easier to fit and remove in the future. :D:D;)
 
Hehe, yes I should have thought of the Vaseline first (for the fob, obviously). It's KY for a main dealer visit.

Sorry not to be around. I've been into hospital for an operation and now I won't be driving for a few weeks. It will give me time to get the key sorted, anyways.
 
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