Td4 injector question

Hi 05 td4 starts within a couple seconds but blows large puffs of whitish smoke on cold starts and rough running for 5 to 10 seconds then clears and goes good with no smoke and good idle . I think a injector is leaking diesel into the bore over night. Left for a day and took small pipes of the top of the injectors. Number 1 left hand side had no sign of diesel where as 2 3 4 had diesel to the top of hole. So which are faulty.
What is the average price for injector replacment?

Spitfirejim said:

Hi 05 td4 starts within a couple seconds but blows large puffs of whitish smoke on cold starts and rough running for 5 to 10 seconds then clears and goes good with no smoke and good idle . I think a injector is leaking diesel into the bore over night. Left for a day and took small pipes of the top of the injectors. Number 1 left hand side had no sign of diesel where as 2 3 4 had diesel to the top of hole. So which are faulty.
What is the average price for injector replacment?

Click to expand...

To be honest if one has gone the others are not far behind. I replaced 1 faulty injector (number 4) which cleared my poor starting for a couple of weeks. Ended up doing the other 3 shortly after. It now runs better than ever. The Bosch place I got them from said they thought they'd see me again, apparently when one is changed the next weakest injector will fail soon after and so on. I paid £95 + VAT, these were from a Bosch specialist.

Remove them and clean the nozzles or the whole of the injectors, a member recently posted how he did his I did mine back in 2014, also change the glow plugs at the same time, I did but I tend to do that when I purchase a car I give it a good overall/service, make sure you remove the injectors when the engine is hot as it is much easier, when cold you may have to use a slide hammer, when hot they will pry out easy, use a flat metal bar on the cam cover or you could split or crack it if you lever off it,

Hi can anyone confirm if the injector should be full to the top. I hope so then it will be just one to buy. Plenty used ones on eBay or they not worth bothering about? . That is my dread, fix one then others go. I take it the leaking one will near more than a clean.

I had the same problem when I first got my current SE. I used quality diesel and a couple of bottles of Comma Diesel Magic. This solved the problem for me. I use Diesel Magic once a month and only use Shell or BP fuel.
Mine still starts up a bit rough, but that's caused by the failed glow plug that won't come out.

My local station is Shell so that is what I use. Had td4 for four months and when I got it it smoked lightly on cold starts so ran a tank of diesel magic, fitted bmw pcv, oil and filter change and cleaned intake manafold. It already had erg bypass. All that and still the same so I was just going to put up with it but now it smokes alot more and also if you leave it for as little as three hours. It's starting to get embarrassing.
.

Hi Jim.
Below are a couple of threads which I think you may find interesting, and could help you with your problem good luck
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/a-simple-method-of-testing-your-injectors.321857/

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/injectors-diy-refurbishing.325624/#post-4183052

Spitfirejim said:

My local station is Shell so that is what I use. Had td4 for four months and when I got it it smoked lightly on cold starts so ran a tank of diesel magic, fitted bmw pcv, oil and filter change and cleaned intake manafold. It already had erg bypass. All that and still the same so I was just going to put up with it but now it smokes alot more and also if you leave it for as little as three hours. It's starting to get embarrassing.
.

Click to expand...

Jim, I have done all the 'cheap' fixes for trying to sort out some poor running issues/. The most serious one being a 'dead spot' when pulling onto a roundabout or onto a busy main road....NO power then off you go. Mine creates what I would describe as dangerous clouds of white smoke when pulling away under load. The injectors make the 'classic' rattling noise during that phase. The injectors are next to be replaced by tested/refurbished 'new' ones. I did a 'leakback test' a few months back and only two injectors were in the same ball park but that doesn't show the whole picture like spray pattern etc. You can get some decent deals(with 6 months to a year warranty on 'fleabay' and if you take them to a specialist(like Bosch servicing centre) you may get a years guarantee....they will warn you to ensure that there are not failing components within the system(causing metal filings etc) as if they fail they will test them for such a thing and if found void the warranty. I am going the cheaper route but not the 'cheapest'...always best buying refurbed and not just second hand....if you can afford genuine new OEM items you will be paying close to 1600-00 quid for 4....best get refurbished or have yours done...and as mentioned, when removing get the engine 'HOT' as this makes removing them so much easier...I have done this and it worked...best of luck..

Cheers for all the info, much help. I done a leak off test two months ago and all seemed reasonable. After a drive today where it goes great with no smoke I took the leak off tubes off and all injectors are full. When I have previous checked in the morning number one has no diesel visible and 2 3 4 are the same so I reckon 1 is not sealing and diesel is filling the vote and is being burnt off on initial start and the lumpy running is the empty injector and then runs smooth when refueled. So I have ordered one reconditioned injector and four o rings and washers . Hopefully I will be able to change that with all the advice , then may have a go at cleaning the others.
This is my first Land Rover after having a few Isuzu and Mitsubishi 4x4 and I was beginning to lose faith a little. The td4 is definitely the best to drive tho.

Spitfirejim said:

Cheers for all the info, much help. I done a leak off test two months ago and all seemed reasonable. After a drive today where it goes great with no smoke I took the leak off tubes off and all injectors are full. When I have previous checked in the morning number one has no diesel visible and 2 3 4 are the same so I reckon 1 is not sealing and diesel is filling the vote and is being burnt off on initial start and the lumpy running is the empty injector and then runs smooth when refueled. So I have ordered one reconditioned injector and four o rings and washers . Hopefully I will be able to change that with all the advice , then may have a go at cleaning the others.
This is my first Land Rover after having a few Isuzu and Mitsubishi 4x4 and I was beginning to lose faith a little. The td4 is definitely the best to drive tho.

Click to expand...

You won't have much success cleaning the injectors except cosmetically I'm guessing. It's the internals that need checking and refurbishing (think 'Alibro' on here has had some success doing this?) but the internals are full of small bits and bobs and need to be disassembled in a 'clean environment'...if your eyesight is anything like mine.....?? When you say that the 'pots'(?) are full of diesel do you mean where the injectors 'seat' into the inlet? That may mean the old injectors washers may have been re installed which is a guaranteed way of having them leak like that. If they are leaking into the cylinder then that means the nozzles are not closing/sticking and this is a bad thing as it will increase cylinder wear over time I believe. I would plan on replacing all the injectors when you can...as the others are probably not too 'hot' either...thats my plan anyway(budget dependent)....Let us know how you get on as nothing is 'set in stone' and everyone is capable of 'changing the paradigm' with regards 'home fixes'....

Hi Mollynomad, I mean when I remove the leak off hoses the diesel is up to the top of the injectors apart from number 1 injector which looks empty when left over night.

This is quite common . more often than not some injector cleaner in the tank and a good drive will clear it up.
But ! I have had 1 injector failed . it was a hairline crack halfway down the injector.
I replaced just 1 and done over 20000 miles since with no issues . but I do keep a spare wrapped up in the boot with tools as its an easy fix and diagnosis. I took 2 out of a rover 75 CDT don't let anyone tel you any different the only thin is people sell the Rover ones cheaper

Why not get your self one of these below. you can then do a proper test it will show which if any injectors are leaking.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-Cylinde...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

Arctic2 said:

Why not get your self one of these below. you can then do a proper test it will show which if any injectors are leaking.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-Cylinde-Diesel-Injector-Flow-Meter-Adaptor-Set-Common-Rail-Leak-Off-Tester-Kit/272787610640?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

Click to expand...

Think Jim said he has already done a leak back test but that is the exact test kit I have, works well and I'm no genius mechanic.... B-)

Spitfirejim said:

Hi Mollynomad, I mean when I remove the leak off hoses the diesel is up to the top of the injectors apart from number 1 injector which looks empty when left over night.

Click to expand...

Not sure if that is significant as I have no experience of looking at that but you may be right regards fuel draining into the cylinder and it does make sense....Best of luck and let us know how it goes...

You can check if fuel is draining into the cylinder by taking a look before the engine is started. I have an endoscope for such investigations. But it is just about possible to look into the cylinder, through the hole from whence the injector was removed. A torch will be handy here. The piston has a combustion chamber in the crown, which will collect any fuel that has dripped through the injector nozzle.

Only just refitted all 4 injectors on my td4. It cost £20 each to have them checked, two were not fuling properly at idle, so it cost £75 each to have them fixed (all plus vat).

Once the engine is warm they aren't too hard to get out. Just make sure you soak in penetrating fluid a during the preceding days.

My problem now is that it won't start.

You may find that it does take a long time for it to start after being disassembled. If your battery isn't at it's best that may exacerbate the problem. When I removed and replaced mine it took multiple attempts to get it running. It may be best to 'cycle' the key several times before attempting to start it? Not sure if the pump cycles each time to get fuel to the places it's needed...Others on here know more than me....Just beware that your engine may take a while before it runs correctly. Although these injectors don't need 'coding' there will be a certain. amount of 'learning' to be done by the ECU IIRC. Best of luck...

I've cranked the bugger and cycled as you suggest but it just won't catch. Its cold (-3) but the battery is fairly new and still cranking well.

Jimbob1 said:

I've cranked the bugger and cycled as you suggest but it just won't catch. Its cold (-3) but the battery is fairly new and still cranking well.

Click to expand...

Ooooouuuffff, Nightmare....It was nearly as cold when I 'did' mine...I just kept at it until it 'went'....eventually.... B-S