CCU compatibility?

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ScottishStew

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Does anyone know or know where I can find out which CCUs are compatible with my car?

The car is a 1998 Freelander 1.8 XEi. I can get more details if they will help.

Any ideas?
 
Think I'm correct in sayiong you'll need another FL 1, 1.8 petrol ccu, and it will need set-up to your FL once fitted. Sold second hand on ebay. Rave disk has info on them.
 
And if I was to change the ECU for a compatible one no coding would be required?


I'd happily use a box of matches but then I'd do something silly like buy a disco which would need a bigger can of petrol when it goes wrong...
 
ScottishStew said:
And if I was to change the ECU for a compatible one no coding would be required?


I'd happily use a box of matches but then I'd do something silly like buy a disco which would need a bigger can of petrol when it goes wrong...
Click to expand...

The ECU's are not compatible.

Yours is the early 1.8 with distributor cap, has the MEMS 1.9 ECU

later models with twin coils have MEMS 3.0.

Either way when adding a new brain, like for like, the security codes still have to be re-programmed to match your existing key/fobs.

If only things were simple.
 
So if coding is required either way then I might aswell just get a new CCU and bite the bullet!

So back to original question - are CCUs interchangable between models and model years? What are the limitations?
 
Hi Stew,
If you get the ECU and CCU with the original coded plip from a donor then you should be able to fit the set and away you go. That's what I did on my Rover 400 with the MEMS system. :)

May work out a lot cheaper than new units and dealer recoding :eek::eek:

You may find a few top end accessories need reactivating if they were not on the donor but it should work well enough to run properly.

Would this work on the FL N.I.?? :confused::confused:
 
Hmmmm, this is what I'm interested in. If I can go this route I will.

Ideally needs to run well enough to get to the garage for new brakes then for MOT. After that I can mess about with coding. I just don't fancy towing a car with rubbish brakes to get coding done......

Even if it costs a few extra quid I think I'd rather co down this route if possible.
 
Hi Disco - If your CCU & plip are from the TD4 I don't think they will help as the ECU and CCU are coded as a pair.
Changing just the CCU and plip will not allow the 1.8 MEMS ECU to run.
That's what the dealers charge you +££££ for, - without the use of a T4 they have you with your pants down !!!
Some 'local factors' can recode plips to existing (working) ECU/CCU pairs - some want a working plip to copy - some don't and just read CCU via the diagnostic socket.

Not too sure what effect of the programmed ignition key interface into the CCU would have??
Would that also need recoding if the CCU were changed??
If it does then maybe you need the original key to put on top of the dash aswell.
- Does the 1998 FL have a programmed key or did they come in later??

If it ain't got one then a three way swap out may work.
Me ole' Rover ain't that clever!!

Perhaps a complete set from a MEMS 1.9 donor would get you mobile if you can find a complete set cheaply??
 
Yes, but a 2nd hand CCU can be recoded though. There are no different part numbers for petrol/diesel models, which leads me to assume that all CCU's are the same part, but will require coding, regardless of which model it comes off, as they are coded to chassis number, but can be re-coded

Even if he did get a new one, it would still require coding, regardless...

Only takes around 15 mins to code in, so shouldnt cost too much to do, even from a stealer
 
disco_mikey said:
Only takes around 15 mins to code in, so shouldnt cost too much to do, even from a stealer
Click to expand...

Only small independent garages with full diagnostics would charge per quarter hour, stealers might charge one hour minimum (£70plus)

You're better selling the Td4 ECU, wiring loom, CCU and key fob together ;)
 
I have a landie indie near enough so I might be able to do something.

Just a shame it can't be done easily without moving the car. I'd happily buy software to sort it out!

Hopefully It'll be sorted soon though.
 
Northern Irelander said:
Only small independent garages with full diagnostics would charge per quarter hour, stealers might charge one hour minimum (£70plus)

You're better selling the Td4 ECU, wiring loom, CCU and key fob together ;)
Click to expand...
out
ScottishStew said:
And if I was to change the ECU for a compatible one no coding would be required?


I'd happily use a box of matches but then I'd do something silly like buy a disco which would need a bigger can of petrol when it goes wrong...
Click to expand...
I don't know about the petrol freelander but if buying ecu from ebay all you need is the ecu and immobiliser control unit. the chip from donor key { if available makes it a whole lot easier}
swap chip from donor car to your key and all should be ok. there is no need to change the ccu
 
Swapped two CCUs, both on Td4s, from my experience you need the same part number unit and the remotes that are programmed to it, then its a straight swap, no programming, if you dont get the remotes or try a different ccu it will need programming at best or not work at worst.
 
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