Disco 2 Should the electric window child lock switch and wing mirror/light level switches illuminate?

Hi,

After realising I wasn't getting any younger - or richer - I thought I should finally own the closest I can reasonably get to the car of my dreams, a Discovery 2 TD5 (Facelift) 2003. It's very much a working, family vehicle and the hope and intention is to keep on top of things and slowly improve it.

I've been reading and learning on here for a few months and tackling what I think I can safely deal with, replacing a door actuator, rear fog/reversing lens and several dashboard and console bulbs. For someone like me, that's a big achievement. I got help from a professional with a rotten radiator cradle and I'll be doing the same with the front wheel arches soon (they're not terrible).

I would like to know if the electric window child lock switch and wing mirror/light level switches should illuminate? I've searched and searched on the web and on here and cannot find a definite answer. The local Land Rover dealer were non-specific, quoting me a vast sum to investigate.

If someone could quickly tell me before I break the switches trying to find out, I would greatly appreciate it.

Many thanks.

Alunee said:

I would like to know if the electric window child lock switch and wing mirror/light level switches should illuminate? I've searched and searched on the web and on here and cannot find a definite answer. The local Land Rover dealer were non-specific, quoting me a vast sum to investigate.

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Hi, short answer: no, those switches are not illuminated.... as about investigation, it should take max 3 minutes to open RAVE - Circuit diagrams - Interior illumination... there are shown all the switches(by name) which are illuminated

As above. Plus, steer clear of the main stealer, no excuses! Buy your own diagnostic kit - cheaper than just about any main stealer involvement. IME, they treat customers as simple cash cows = best avoided.

Also, Welcome aboard - post some piccies, we likes piccies

What's the rear of the chassis like for crustiness ??

sierrafery said:

Hi, short answer: no, those switches are not illuminated.... as about investigation, it should take max 3 minutes to open RAVE - Circuit diagrams - Interior illumination... there are shown all the switches(by name) which are illuminated

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Disco1BFG said:

As above. Plus, steer clear of the main stealer, no excuses! Buy your own diagnostic kit - cheaper than just about any main stealer involvement. IME, they treat customers as simple cash cows = best avoided.

Also, Welcome aboard - post some piccies, we likes piccies

What's the rear of the chassis like for crustiness ??

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Hi again and thank you for your speedy responses. I work with computers and develop software - I spend all day every day not assuming customers know what I know - I am way out of my comfort zone here. Apologies if my question seemed "thick" (it probably is) or lazy (it isn't). Sometimes you need to know what to search for!

I've had a few PDFs on my desktop for weeks and they have added to my confusion. On page 107 in "DISCOVERY 2003MY Electrical Circuit Diagrams" a 1.2 Watt bulb is indicated (SWITCH-HEADLAMP LEVELLING S109). Like I say, I am sure I am being thick!

The rear end is literally mint and that along with no advisories and a reconditioned lump, as well as a fairly tidy interior, were the deciders. I looked at several. I have a leaky roof, but think I can sort that. I had no intention of going to a dealer, but such was my desperation trying to find an answer!

The headlamp levelling is illuminated but the mirrors adjustment is not.... that "wing mirror/light level" thing confused me and i meant only the wing mirror one, sorry

sierrafery said:

The headlamp levelling is illuminated but the mirrors adjustment is not.... that "wing mirror/light level" thing confused me and i meant only the wing mirror one, sorry

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Spot on, thank you.

Alunee said:

Apologies if my question seemed "thick" (it probably is)

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It is NOT a "thick" question - the only "thick" question is the one you don't ask - we've all got different skills, so you ask away

Glad to hear the chassis is in good nick. IMHO, get some proper protection on it to keep it that way! (Dinitrol / Bilt Hamber - NO "underseal" - do a search ).

+1 above get your chassis properly protected asap while it's good,do everything you can before the rust rats can get in

Disco1BFG said:

Glad to hear the chassis is in good nick. IMHO, get some proper protection on it to keep it that way! (Dinitrol / Bilt Hamber - NO "underseal" - do a search ).

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Thinking about it, the ON bit isn't quite right - slip of the tongue and all that - it should be IN - cos the little bar steward tin worms eat chassis / box sections from the inside out

Sound advice, thank you again. For today, how to get at the headlamp levelling bulb?

I'm affraid you'll have to figure this out yourself but it doesnt seem very hard, what i can tell you is how to remove the switch: pull off the button, undo that nut and you can remove the switch then, use a small flat screwdriver to push the plug's clip while you pull it to unplug, job done ... i didnt open one myself but if you push in those clips all around(pointed with red) and remove that cover i'm sure you can get to the bulb.... i dont even know what bulb it is so please make a pic and post it here or at least describe how you did it. Good luck

Well, you learn something new every day. Unfortunately for me, I will forget it again soon.

It's a green LED and would need a solder job on the board to replace. I've posted a pic along with the back of the stork (for interest). One thing, there are 6 prongs on the back of the switch, but the plug and loom only have 4 wires. I am guessing this is because of the vehicle and that the unit was used for more functions with other specs.

There are a few of these on a certain well know auction website. I might take a punt on a replacement.

Well done, at least we all learned something

An update..! I got a new (old) headlamp levelling switch from eBay, the seller apparently bench tested it.

The exterior of the switch was in a much poorer condition to my own, so I swapped the innards. After briefly marvelling at how my dash looked like the Starship Enterprise compared to when I first got my Discovery and fiddling around putting it back together, all the night-time dashboard lights went out. No dimming, climate control buttons, window switches, etc. On further investigation, the glovebox lamp is also out. I checked the external lights and they seem fine (low beam, hi beam, sides, fogs, front, rear, reversing, indicators), tested the fuses under the bonnet and fuses 11 and 33 under the dash, before the it became too dark to go any further. I'll come back to it in the morning - any ideas where I should be looking? Fuses 15 and 20 seem the next step and I'm pretty sure it won't be the stork as there has never been an issue before and it's the same with both the old and new headlamp levelling switches. Worried I've pulled a wire somewhere, but don't think I have!

Check fuse F3 under dash

sierrafery said:

Check fuse F3 under dash

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I've got that as LH headlamp-high beam. Will do and I'll end up doing a full dash fuse check if it's not f3, f5 or f20 (or f11 and f33 already tested).

Rave is not complete in that area as facelifts interior fusebox's scheme is not covered and what's shown in RAVE is only for pre-facelifts eventually early facelifts and there are differencies, see PDF attachment if the label on the lid is like in the pic

sierrafery said:

Rave is not complete in that area as facelifts interior fusebox's scheme is not covered and what's shown in RAVE is only for pre-facelifts eventually early facelifts and there are differencies, see PDF attachment if the label on the lid is like in the pic
View attachment 141251

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Brilliant, f3 does seem a likely candidate, or more worryingly for me, a wire going to or from it!

Do you have a part number on your replacement control?

Although they all look the same externally (apart from the early ones having Ash Grey housings, and the later ones, Black housings), the connections (and part numbers) are slightly different for the levelling control fitted to D1, D2 pre-facelift, D2 facelift, and Defender from 1999 onwards.

sierrafery said:

Rave is not complete in that area as facelifts interior fusebox's scheme is not covered and what's shown in RAVE is only for pre-facelifts eventually early facelifts and there are differencies, see PDF attachment if the label on the lid is like in the pic
View attachment 141251

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I couldn't help myself, fuse 3 it is, thank you! Now the switch lights up, but the levelling no longer works. I will have another play in the morning, maybe a dirty contact, I've already checked fuses 11 and 33.

PaulMc said:

Do you have a part number on your replacement control?

Although they all look the same externally (apart from the early ones having Ash Grey housings, and the later ones, Black housings), the connections (and part numbers) are slightly different for the levelling control fitted to D1, D2 pre-facelift, D2 facelift, and Defender from 1999 onwards.

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I did look at this and the part number is YUK000020PUY. As it happens, you can still buy one new and for less than some are trying to charge for used switches on that well known online auction house. I'm tempted, once I've checked the wiring.