Other Alternator test/ AC

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gstuart

D3 Grandad
Full Member
Posts
29,712
Location
Kent
hi guys

can someone help me plse, i think i’ve got bleeding brain freeze,lol

currently outside and got the landy into sleep mode and for the life of me can’t remember how to test the AC side of the alternator

is it ac on the multimeter then negative to earth on the battery plse , batteries flat so can’t start the engine

can’t get to the back of the alternator

would be brilliant if someone would be so kind to tell me plse whilst i’m outside

many thks guys

PS found this and know it’s a drain somewhere , just wish to eliminate the alternator first plse

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You can't test the alternator's AC side, to rule it out you need an oscilloscope https://www.circuitspecialists.com/blog/testing-an-alternator-with-an-oscilloscope/

ah , **** ,lol

many thks so at least i know

currently banging my head against the wall with the t max system i installed , flat main battery pressed button on t max display , red link light came up

got 12 volts from the aux battery to the solonoid , but checked other side of solonoid that goes onto the main battery nothing , aaarrrrrr

so looks like i will have to get the solonoid exchanged, just one of those days and got to get it all out again , :(

thks again as i know ur a wizard when it comes to electrics :D:D
 
does anyone happen to know where to get the white connectors, as per example picture , that the green J type fuse is plugged into plse

have 16 x of those fuses , after the landy went to sleep, i tried removing one and the clamp meter amps shot up as it woke the system up, so looks like i will indeed have to make up a good few in order i can get to the bottom of this residual drain

many thks once again

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Set the tool to the maximum scale cos it will show the same and i doubt that the draw will be higher than 80A

hi mate , many thks

the pic showing the yellow clamp meter isn’t mine with the wire , was just an example, as i was trying to find the connectors in order i can fit all the J type fuses and be able to test them all in one go for this residual drain whilst the vehicle is asleep , or if i can make up some insulated spade connectors

don’t know how hard otherwise if i can unbolt the fuse box, lifting it up enough to get a clamp / multimeter behind it

then got to ensure i then test the relays correctly

these are the readings i’ve had so far , along with a chart that shows what the max M/ amps should be less than 22 m/amps after 30 x mins

would be fine if it was a boiler, lol, but indeed put my hands up and having to learn to ensure i do it properly

i also disconnected my tmax split charge system , in order that it didn’t interfere

main battery is around 6 x months old, 100A/h 900 Cca , if i don’t use the landy for just over 2 x weeks it will drain the main battery

the aux battery is a leisure one and had 12 x volts , but then after testing the new solonoid i fitted is faulty , but i’ve contacted the company in order to get that replaced and wish to beforehand ensure i get to the bottom of this battery drain and what’s not switching off properly

apologise in advance asking daft questions but know i’ve got to learn how to do it , am extremely grateful and many thks once again





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..... the max M/ amps should be less than 22 m/amps after 30 x mins....
That's valid with the vehicle lockled and untouched, did you unplug/block down the bonnet switch lock the vehicle then made the measurements after 30 minutes or just let it unlocked with bionnet open ? .... anyway IMO it's possible that the main battery to be ruined by this dual battery setup especially if the second battery is a leisure one

also you dont need such connectors for the fusible links, if the system wakes up when you pull one FL it should go to sleep again after 30 minutes so all uou need is patience
 
That's valid with the vehicle lockled and untouched, did you unplug/block down the bonnet switch lock the vehicle then made the measurements after 30 minutes or just let it unlocked with bionnet open ? .... anyway IMO it's possible that the main battery to be ruined by this dual battery setup especially if the second battery is a leisure one

also you dont need such connectors for the fusible links, if the system wakes up when you pull one FL it should go to sleep again after 30 minutes so all uou need is patience

hi and many thks

indeed did link out the bonnet switch and waited over the 30 x mins

main reason i fitted the second battery , so that if i didn’t use the landy for some weeks it would be ok along with extra aux battery use when camping

aux battery is disconnected at the moment , hope it hasn’t ruined the new main battery due to this faulty relay , as i ensured it was installed correctly

will just have to be patient then, lol
 
Far too few fuses in that fusebox. you need a P38 so you can really be in a world of hurt.


According to my IID tool my D3 has 28 ecus and 108 fuses in total
Mates 09 3.6 range rover has 32 ecus
Just imagine what the current cars have got!
 
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ah , **** ,lol

many thks so at least i know

currently banging my head against the wall with the t max system i installed , flat main battery pressed button on t max display , red link light came up

got 12 volts from the aux battery to the solonoid , but checked other side of solonoid that goes onto the main battery nothing , aaarrrrrr

so looks like i will have to get the solonoid exchanged, just one of those days and got to get it all out again , :(

thks again as i know ur a wizard when it comes to electrics :D:D


One of the boot lights above the two rear seats left switched on? easy to do as dull as fcuk!, or one of the glovebox lamps stuck on, door switch playing up?

Ps have you got a link to the clamp meter looks useful tool? my methods for checking mains voltage arent exactly h+s approved!
 
According to my IID tool my D3 has 28 ecus and 108 fuses in total
Mates 09 3.6 range rover has 32 ecus
Just imagine what the current cars have got!

times like this i’m pleased i haven’t got all the extra toys , lol
 
One of the boot lights above the two rear seats left switched on? easy to do as dull as fcuk!, or one of the glovebox lamps stuck on, door switch playing up?

Ps have you got a link to the clamp meter looks useful tool? my methods for checking mains voltage arent exactly h+s approved!

hi

thks, did indeed check them , also pressed and held the front light to switch automatic mode off , but you’ve got a good point ref the glove box and worth rechecking

no probs and here’s the link for the clamp meter , indeed found it to be very useful and will save u using ur finger , lol

thks again

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNI-T-UT...544804&hash=item1a3b34ae0a:g:dEcAAOSwnDpaHjIa
 
hi

thks, did indeed check them , also pressed and held the front light to switch automatic mode off , but you’ve got a good point ref the glove box and worth rechecking

no probs and here’s the link for the clamp meter , indeed found it to be very useful and will save u using ur finger , lol

thks again

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNI-T-UT...544804&hash=item1a3b34ae0a:g:dEcAAOSwnDpaHjIa

Iirc door switch is built into the door latch mechanism, maybe hang the door puddle lamps out the bottom of the door seal when you shut it assuming theres enough wire to do that?
Thanks for the link now off to look
 
Iirc door switch is built into the door latch mechanism, maybe hang the door puddle lamps out the bottom of the door seal when you shut it assuming theres enough wire to do that?
Thanks for the link now off to look

wondered where they had hidden them, lol

puddle light , nope haven’t got them ;)

no probs , i ordered those bergen combined uj sockets u kindly sent me the link for , many thks and look perfect to access the nuts on these struts :):)
 
Weirdly been out in the car tonight and when I first started it dash came up special programmes off, which means my battery is weak, same make as yours and probably from the same source!
15 months and 10k that was 150 quid well spent!
 
Weirdly been out in the car tonight and when I first started it dash came up special programmes off, which means my battery is weak, same make as yours and probably from the same source!
15 months and 10k that was 150 quid well spent!

blimey , it’s came out in sympathy, still got mine on charge, i have however bought a 12S socket so i can then charge it through that and save me messing around with lifting the bonnet up

for some reason if there not used for around 2 1/2 weeks they go flat , indeed an exide from tayna ,

wonder if it can be calculated that the D3 is suppose to use up to 22ma ,assume they work it out over a 24 x hour period

spoke to the company ref my t max faulty solonoid and there sending a replacement out monday , so will have to undo a good bit of my wiring to get the new one in , at least then the aux battery system should work better and be good to see how much longer it holds its charge with the extra battery

also see the ctek charger has a battery drain test built in at it cycles through the 8 x steps , to see if it holds charge or not and comes up as a fault if there’s a problem with the battery , very clever

was reading the other day that even the diode pack can be changed in these alternators , suprising how many people have saved a lot of money rebuilding that bit , didn’t release they were 150 x amps

assume urs just needs a charge and is all ok , can’t remember what the warranty is on the exides
 
isnt the D3/4 waking up every 6 hours to relevel suspension? ... that thing corroborated with the normal drain makes me think that in more than 2 weeks it's quite normal for the battery to go weak especially if it's not in the best shape or the vehicle was used for short journeys
 
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