Defender Td5 Head Gasket problems

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I have my suspicions that the engineering firm I had it done at last time used plastic dowels as mentioned in the workshop manual. It's the only reason I can think of for it going again after only 2 years.
If they used any at all ! If you can use a lathe you can turn some out of pretty much any old bolts or bar stock but they are cheap enough to buy the real thing. They were never designed to prevent head movement but just to aid head location on the engine production line. Steel dowels allow absolutely no sideways movement whereas nylon softens and deforms over time.
 
How long would it take for a noble man to change head gasket on td5?
If you have never done one then hard to say. Give yourself a full day and you should be OK.

So long as all the bolts play ball I could change one in under two hours if time was of the essence. However I have all the tools and have done more than 10 TD5s before.

I would allow myself half a day including stopping for a cup of tea and some biscuits. You are supposed to wait for the sealant to cure between the head and cam carrier before starting the engine. Make sure you have everything you need before starting and keep everything very clean. Bag and label stuff as you remove it if you are not familiar with where it will all have to go back. Also make sure you know all the torque and adjustment settings. Guessing here is not really an option unless you really have no choice. Do not drop anything down the timing chain opening as that will require major dismantling to retrieve it. While the head is off give the bores a good inspection and clean the tops of the pistons if they are particularly dirty. If confident you can also check the valve seats and lap them if necessary while the head is off.
 
A further question... Having disconnected everything and got ready to release the head bolts I'm concerned that the timing chain isn't supported in any way. Is it possible that the chain can drop and slip off the bottom sprocket ? Also, what is the 'Underbelly Panel' of which the manual speaks and why does it need to be removed ? are these two questions connected ?
 
A further question... Having disconnected everything and got ready to release the head bolts I'm concerned that the timing chain isn't supported in any way. Is it possible that the chain can drop and slip off the bottom sprocket ? Also, what is the 'Underbelly Panel' of which the manual speaks and why does it need to be removed ? are these two questions connected ?
it could but doesnt matter cable tie chain to cam sprocket and pull head over, dont cut tie till heads back on aslong sas chain is on both sprockets fully and both crank and cam pins align timing is sorted
 
it could but doesnt matter cable tie chain to cam sprocket and pull head over, dont cut tie till heads back on aslong sas chain is on both sprockets fully and both crank and cam pins align timing is sorted
Of course, how foolish of me lol I'd planned to do the cable tie thing, but I'm getting nervous now I'm at the open heart surgery stage... Everything disconnected, Rocker cover ( I know, I know, old habbits etc etc ) off, and E14 on breaker bar in hand. Thanks for your help fella :)
 
If you have never done one then hard to say. Give yourself a full day and you should be OK.

So long as all the bolts play ball I could change one in under two hours if time was of the essence. However I have all the tools and have done more than 10 TD5s before.

I would allow myself half a day including stopping for a cup of tea and some biscuits. You are supposed to wait for the sealant to cure between the head and cam carrier before starting the engine. Make sure you have everything you need before starting and keep everything very clean. Bag and label stuff as you remove it if you are not familiar with where it will all have to go back. Also make sure you know all the torque and adjustment settings. Guessing here is not really an option unless you really have no choice. Do not drop anything down the timing chain opening as that will require major dismantling to retrieve it. While the head is off give the bores a good inspection and clean the tops of the pistons if they are particularly dirty. If confident you can also check the valve seats and lap them if necessary while the head is off.
Wouldn’t the head have be to skimmed though shifty?
 
Well, I'm a rank amateur and I managed to do the whole thing around 9 hours, with lots of warming of toes and checking manuals, back and forth looking for tools in their various hiding places etc Now to replace the handbrake cable that failed when I parked up to do the work. Never a dull moment with a Landie :)
Thanks for all the advice folks. Very much appreciated :)
 
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