300Tdi EDC Automatic timing marks

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Mowog73

Member
Posts
50
Location
SW Ontario Canada
I am replacing the injectorpump in my 96 D1 300Tdi EDC automatic. #1 valve at TDC and the timing tool in the slot on the automatic's flywheel, the timing slot behind the access plate is 180 deg out from what is shown in the workshop manual and the Land Rover Toolbox video on replacing the injectorpump, is this correct?
 
But it it is odd that I found the mark on the flywheel and was able to lock it with the locking pin and yet found the slot for the pump pin under the cover on the timing case to be at approx 5 o'clock, rather than at 11 o'clock as shown in the workshop manual.
 
But it it is odd that I found the mark on the flywheel and was able to lock it with the locking pin and yet found the slot for the pump pin under the cover on the timing case to be at approx 5 o'clock, rather than at 11 o'clock as shown in the workshop manual.
turn the engine over once then refit pins
 
Turn the engine over until it's 180 degrees from when I found the original mark on the fly wheel and the pump pin spot is at the spot as per the workshop manual? Shall do tomorrow. Thanks
 
Turn the engine over until it's 180 degrees from when I found the original mark on the fly wheel and the pump pin spot is at the spot as per the workshop manual? Shall do tomorrow. Thanks
it takes 2 turns of the crank to get the pump pulley to turn once
 
EDC engine has flywheel timing pin slot/mark in a different place to the manuals, quick google should show some images
 
I spent time yesterday trying to find images or other information about the timing marks for an EDC automatic on the interweb but I found nothing.
 
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I have the alignment pin in the slot and the the pin is in the pump gear but is at approx5 o'clock compared the the picture in the workshop manual and rave, which shows it at approx 11 o'clock, wierd.
 
I have the alignment pin in the slot and the the pin is in the pump gear but is at approx5 o'clock compared the the picture in the workshop manual and rave, which shows it at approx 11 o'clock, wierd.

How did you get the pump pin in the hole that is behind the pump pulley? or have you just got it stuck in the part that rotates?

Have you tried turning the crank 1 more rotation with the pins removed.

Cheerd
 
I have the alignment pin in the slot and the the pin is in the pump gear but is at approx5 o'clock compared the the picture in the workshop manual and rave, which shows it at approx 11 o'clock, wierd.
your 180 degrees out which is one full turn of the crank
 
Sunday was not a successful day.

I decided to try installing the new injection pump based on using the timing mark on the flywheel, even though the alignment on the pump wheel is out by approx. 180 deg compared to the picture in the workshop manual. When the alignment mark on the flywheel is at the bottom, both #1 cylinder’s valves are closed; they are on the rocker.

I decided to also install new glow plugs at this time, since access was good to all for, especially #1 since I had to move the a/c compressor for access to the injection pump. Unfortunately I didn’t realise that the power lead to #4 glow plug wasn’t installed and when I went to try to start the engine, there was smoke due to the glow plug power lead shorting against the block. I put the power onto #4 glow plug but the engine wouldn’t start.

I figured that there could be two reasons why it didn’t start: injector pump not properly timed or the EDC sensor in #4 was fried by the shorting from the glow plug power lead. So, I realigned the timing mark on the flywheel and put the original injector pump back in. Still, the engine will not start.

Could I have ruined the EDC injector by shorting the glow plug power lead to the block?

I’m thinking the only way of solving the alignment issue is by taking the timing belt cover off to see where the alignment marks are on the gears. Is there supposed to be a TDC mark on the crank pulley? I looked carefully and I couldn’t see one.
 
Check all fuses before you proceed....the short could have blown a fuse. With regards to the timing, in all the years till now, I have never had to use the lockin pin on the crank and have yet to get the timing wrong. When in doubt, with everything aligned with the old belt still on and the pump locked, use tippex to highlight the existing marks on the crank and cam pulley and you should be good. Mine too is an automatic with a modified v8 autobox and an adaptor plate mating it to the 200tdi (don't ask, bought it that way), and in more than a decade of ownership, have never had any issue timing it up the 3 times I've replaced the belt and 1 FIP.
 
I did check a number of the fuses, but I will go back and check them all, verifying using an ohm meter.

The timing mark on the flywheel and not corresponding to where the crank pulley was supposed to be has me perplexed.

I bought this 1996 D1 300TDi two years ago from a friend that imported it from Japan in 2013 I believe. He changed the timing belt and upgraded to the later 300TiDi belt alignment bits. The reason I am wanting to change the injection pump is due to a really bad tanks of fuel, full of water and dirt, that overwhelmed the fuel filter and caused the engine to stumble when driven at 50 mph and above. I've already had the injectors rebuilt with new nozzles, which made a huge improvement but there is still a stumble, hence changing the injector pump.

I should have read James Martin's comment more closely concerning 'it takes 2 turns of the crank to get the pump pulley to turn once'. I should have done this and checked where valves #1 and #2 where and where the slot in the pump pulley was. When things were not lining up I should have stopped and had a beer and thought things through more closely.

Thanks for all the help so far.
 
I did check a number of the fuses, but I will go back and check them all, verifying using an ohm meter.

The timing mark on the flywheel and not corresponding to where the crank pulley was supposed to be has me perplexed.

I bought this 1996 D1 300TDi two years ago from a friend that imported it from Japan in 2013 I believe. He changed the timing belt and upgraded to the later 300TiDi belt alignment bits. The reason I am wanting to change the injection pump is due to a really bad tanks of fuel, full of water and dirt, that overwhelmed the fuel filter and caused the engine to stumble when driven at 50 mph and above. I've already had the injectors rebuilt with new nozzles, which made a huge improvement but there is still a stumble, hence changing the injector pump.

I should have read James Martin's comment more closely concerning 'it takes 2 turns of the crank to get the pump pulley to turn once'. I should have done this and checked where valves #1 and #2 where and where the slot in the pump pulley was. When things were not lining up I should have stopped and had a beer and thought things through more closely.

Thanks for all the help so far.
if your 180 degrees out on your timing its 1 full turn of crank for 1/2 a turn on cam or pump,
 
The workshop manual makes it sound like that when I have found TDC with the valves on #1 and the timing pin is engaged in the flywheel that I have it aligned correctly, but the step I missed, and James did point out, is that another rotation of the crank is needed so that I get to proper alignment of pump pulley for insertion of pin into the pump pulley AND the pump itself.

I just notice in the workshop manual that it says 'Do not rotate the crankshaft anit-clockwise'. I did rotate the crankshaft clockwise to get to the timing mark on the flywheel but I did rotate a bit anti-clockwise to get the mark perfectly aligned in order to insert the pin. Did I do some sort of damage with the small anti-clockwise rotation of the crank?
 
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