Turn it into a 2 wheel drive?

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I have a vibration some were I can feel it through the peddles but I would sooner get it fixed fingers crossed if it doesn't cost the earth and keep the AWD after all that's what a freelander is imo as for "Might as well get a normal car" spent to much on this plus the mrs would kill me :D
 
What's the problem Michael? Many knocks etc are actually rear diff mounts that are reasonably easy to sort out?
Sorry for the delayed response
A fine mist of axle grease covered the rear corner of the vehicle. Inspection of the pionion showed loose metal shavings. Mechanic could not get the exact rear end. Seems there might be 2 ratio's used. Need to take off rear end and count teeth. $600 for parts $300 for labor. In the mean time... I think I need to post a separate thread called "I Surrender"
 
Lots do. But then why own a non AWD, AWD. Might as well get a normal car.
Thank you for your response.
How would one achieve a front wheel drive in a manner that would allow for a fix when a salvage vehicle could be found reasonably in cost? I would really value your response.
 
Thank you for your response.
How would one achieve a front wheel drive in a manner that would allow for a fix when a salvage vehicle could be found reasonably in cost? I would really value your response.
just remove the prop shaft between diff and ird ,but if diff has issues it might not be a good idea as wheel will still drive it even though engine isnt
 
I understand you to say that the gears in the rear end will still be attempting to function and should they fail completely bad things could happen?
 
I understand you to say that the gears in the rear end will still be attempting to function and should they fail completely bad things could happen?

A failing diff can seize up, but it's not that common. It can be removed completely if you like. This is the best action, if a proper repair is out of the question.
Remove the propshafts from front to back, then remove the rear diff and drive shafts from the VC joins. You'll need to keep the stub axle in place, or the wheels fall off.

Can you not repair the vehicle correctly, using second hand or reconditioned parts.
There's only one diff ratio, so getting a replacement should be reasonably easy. The diff has most likely failed because the VCU has gone stiff. This will be down to incorrect tyre maintenance.
If tyres are maintained as per the manufacturers instructions, the AWD system has a long life.

I personally can't see the point in running and expensive AWD vehicle that has had all the AWD capability removed.
I didn't want an AWD vehicle. I'd have something cheap to run, like a diesel Astra instead.
 
If you remove the prop and vcu, don't you have to fit a blanking plate? My vcu is stiff, I notice it on full lock, local 4x4 specialist was talking 4 figure sum to fix it, Bell engineering want £320 for a new vcu, bearings and fitting.

Col
 
If you remove the prop and vcu, don't you have to fit a blanking plate? My vcu is stiff, I notice it on full lock, local 4x4 specialist was talking 4 figure sum to fix it, Bell engineering want £320 for a new vcu, bearings and fitting.

Col
You don't have to fit a blanking plate to the IRD. Nobody talks about fitting a blanking plate to the rear diff, and that has flange protruding from it as well. Both will be revolving at the same(ish) speed.

If you have tightness on lock, do the 1 wheel up test to confirm the faulty VCU and, if you don't want to spend the cash now on a replacement, whip the props & VCU off.

Forget your "4x4 specialist" (cos they appear only specialist at separating you from your cash) - I'd go with a Bells unit when you are ready.
 
If you can be bothered this is the best way to go. The only specialist tool you need is a tap to thread the holes.
If you can't be bothered or are not confident enough then pull the propshaft off and forget about it.
I still haven't got round to it - but I'm going to take the VCU along to an engineering shop and get them to drill & tap the holes. They should get them straight and I've never tapped anything before, but I don't mind doing the labour intensive bit of flushing then filling.
 
I still haven't got round to it - but I'm going to take the VCU along to an engineering shop and get them to drill & tap the holes. They should get them straight and I've never tapped anything before, but I don't mind doing the labour intensive bit of flushing then filling.
Could you post how much they charge when you get the quote please?
 
I Just finished this one today. I drilled bigger holes and used sump plugs to plug them. Really pleased at how neat they are and the bigger holes meant it was easier to clean it out and get the new fluid in.
20170914_163420.jpg
 
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