Replacing front prop shaft: A question

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Lilt31

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13
Location
Oxfordshire
Hi guys. After a bit of fault finding on a serious amount of vibration at around 60mph, I've discovered the joint between the front prop shaft and IRD is knackered. I have a new prop shaft coming today but my question is whether I can remove and replace just the front section and leave everything else alone? The Haynes book seems to suggest that both prop shafts and the VCU have to be removed in one go and then the front prop seperated which seems a bit nuts. Surely if I support the VCU with an axle stand or similar so it doesn't sag I can unbolt the front prop and attach a new one?

If anyone's got an experience of this I'd be grateful. I don't want to waste time removing uneccessary bits but equally would rather not destroy the rear drivetrain.
 
I wouldn't have thought there's a lot of difference between replacing just the front prop and dropping the complete props/VCU setup, replacing the front prop then reinstalling.

The trickyest bit is separating the prop from the VCU and if its off the car will be easier.

I suppose it will depend on how much room you have under the car to swing a hammer to knock/wedge the prop from the VCU.
 
If the prop comes off the VCU splines, then it's possible to remove just the front section. I always split the props before removing, as its much easier to handle. You'll need to unbolt one end of the lower tie bar so the engine can rock enough to give the necessary clearance. It's not a difficult job though, so should take about 30 minutes to swap the shafts over.
 
It can be done ON the car. If everything is playing ball.
It's just easier off the car. Yes it's heavy and needs careful handling so you don't drop it on your head or fingers. (Don't ask how I know this)
But on balance (see what I did there?) I'd rather drop the whole thing so I could give it a good inspection.
When I did mine recently I found one of the yokes had a crack in it caused by someone previously being heavy handed. So I welded it up.
But if I had done it on the car I doubt I would have spotted the crack.
 
Thanks guys. Consensus seems to be do it on the car which is what I started last night. I had the car up on a lift and gave it a good going over which is how I diagnosed the dodgy prop joint, so I'm not worried about missing damage. Unfortunately I don't have access to the lift anymore so I'm now crawling about on the floor. I got the prop free of the IRD last night but lost the light while trying to remove the nut and U shaped washer type thing from the other end. Will attack again tonight and hope it plays ball.
 
You only need to undo the 17mm bolt a few turns. Just enough to allow the U washer to be slipped out the yoke. The bolt head can then be used as an inner fulcrum point, to lever the yoke off the VCU spline. ;)
 
You only need to undo the 17mm bolt a few turns. Just enough to allow the U washer to be slipped out the yoke. The bolt head can then be used as an inner fulcrum point, to lever the yoke off the VCU spline. ;)
Haynes don't tell you that one do they? Fantastic idea :cool:
 
Now its on the ground - its easier to take the whole lot off and then separate the front prop once its off the car.
This is spot on. Anybody reading this and about to attempt the same job, do yourself a favour and take the whole prop shaft off the car first. You'll save yourself an awful lot of time and sanity.
 
I must admit that I split the props to remove them if the VCU splines play ball. I find it much easier to handle them in separate bits.
 
If the props come off the spline easily, then that's probably the best way to do it. Otherwise I can see that taking the whole lot off in one piece and then separating it in "comfort" might be the way to go. :)
 
If the props come off the spline easily, then that's probably the best way to do it. Otherwise I can see that taking the whole lot off in one piece and then separating it in "comfort" might be the way to go. :)
Yup. Save yourself the hassle and get it on a bench.
 
I can't remember if it is the front or back one but one of the shafts comes off much easier than the other. I've bent a couple of the 17mm bolts and even a chisel separating the harder of the two, the other one usually comes off pretty easily.
 
Judging from the bodgit and leggit YouTube vid I saw looks like the rear is the easier, front the harder?
 
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