200tdi rebuild for 2.5NA Tithonus

Saw this on the wolf Tithonus Facebook group earlier and made the connection. I need to do the same as mine is looking manky.

Looking good mate. I want to do the same with my 300 tdi engine

Made a start with the crank this week and checking bearing clearances. Spec is 1.2 to 3 thou so whipped out the plastigauge.



1, 3, 4 and 5 are all 1.5 thou or ever so slightly smaller . . .



But cap 2 is at 1 thou so slightly too tight



I did this once, then removed all the bearings, re-cleaned / checked all surfaces and repeated just to double check but got the same result both times. I will give a call to the engine shop tomorrow and see what the say. Probably for peace of mind just get a little more polished off the crank to be on the safe side of things

Shells swapped around and all mains within spec now

Today I cleaned up the rods, checked the big end clearances (all within spec between 1.5 and 2 thou) and fitted the new pistons ready for assembly





Wrapped up to keep clean before reassembly

Sorry for the total lack of updates! I have been replacing my bathroom so the engine build took a back seat unfortunately.

Anyways the crank and pistons are now installed. I took the crank back to the engine shop to polish the rear crank seal mating face as there were a few light grooves and I am doing my best to avoid any leaks! I also managed to find some genuine Land Rover T-seals which were much easier to fit than the pattern ones and a much more supple rubber. Gives me a bit more confidence that they will not leak.



I have also just rebuilt the oil pump with a kit from Turners, so tomorrow I should be able to fit the ladder frame and sump, and get the engine the right way up!

Ladder frame, oil ump and sump fitted today.

Treated it to some stainless sump bolts too

aceofhearts said:

Treated it to some stainless sump bolts too

Click to expand...

is that wise?

They are only sump bolts and torqued to 25nm. I would never use stainless in place of any structural or high tensile fixings but for just fitting things like this I have no worries.

I will also be using stainless for the alternator, power steering pump, thermostat housing etc.

Cam and timing case now on. Will hopefully get some more pictures later.

In the meantime does anyone know about fuel injection pump banjos? I am getting a refurbished pump through but it comes without and I have to use my own ones. Are they available or is it going to be a blast and re-plate job?

Bolts and complete pipes are available on line. Look for ESR395, Paddocks have them in stock, or LR direct have the genuine items.

Thanks very much

Timing belt on

House is currently up for rent so had to tidy up for the estate agent.

Who likes an engine in dining room pic?

Ancillaries back on, turbo and manifold stripped and cleaned up, rocker shaft in and valve clearances set. Not long to go!

Looks clean enough to eat your dinner off! Did you consider painting the exhaust manifold/turbo? - I read BBQ paint is good.

Yes the exhaust manifold was wire brushed, rust treated and then painted with high temp black paint. Being cast iron it wont stay like that for long I think but it keeps me happy haha.

Turbo housing is aluminium so I have just left it bare as it would have been originally. I was tempted to paint it in the duck egg engine enamel but thought it may be too much

Injectors ultrasonically cleaned and rebuilt with new Bosch nozzles

New injector clamp as the engine only came with 3. Now blasted and awaiting paint

Turbo oil lines on

Ok it is ready to install, and I will be making a start tonight.

The old 2.5na is also up for sale so keep an eye out if you are interested. Its a goodun and have videos of it running, and it will be sold as a bolt in setup