Full Fat Range Rover.
You mean, "money pit".It's only a potential purchase. I like the low cost motoring my FL1 provides tbh. I'm not sure I could stomach giving the government any more tax.
Full Fat Range Rover.
I quite fancy an L322 and there's one local to me for sill money at the moment!
You mean, "money pit".
Well, if that's what you fancy, go for it. Just go in with your eyes wide open. They're full of electrical gremlins, and don't get me started on the air suspension
I looked at a Range Rover and bought a Grand Cherokee instead, if that doesn't say something I don't know what will.
Mike
I've had a D3 in the past, which was also a money pit. In 2 years my D3 consumed well over £3K in parts, although that did include 4 new Pirelli Scorpion ATRs and a wheel referb.
Did you turn the synergy down before towing? I don't like it over setting 2, due to the extra load on the autobox. It'll probably settle down if you put it on setting 1 for a week and drive like a saint.I'll definitely do that Mike
It's only just an idea at the moment. I actually like being able to work on the FL1 for peanuts. Although the TC lock up clutch has started to shudder, after I towed a 1000Kg trailer at the weekend.
No Mike, I didn't turn the synergy down. I was flat out up a 20% hill in 4th when the TC locked with a thump. It's thumped in ever since, which is annoying.Did you turn the synergy down before towing? I don't like it over setting 2, due to the extra load on the autobox. It'll probably settle down if you put it on setting 1 for a week and drive like a saint.
Don't get me wrong about the RR, if you know what it'll cost, and how often it WILL go wrong, then its a real challenge. Have a look through the Rimmerbros catalogue first to give you an idea of costs, just don't drink anything at the same time, you'll choke
Mike
So it's probably partly my fault . If the fluid change doesn't fix it. I'll put in some Dr Tranny Shudder Fix. That should do the trick for a while. I might start looking for a replacement TC, just in case.
OopsNo Mike, I didn't turn the synergy down. I was flat out up a 20% hill in 4th when the TC locked with a thump. It's thumped in ever since, which is annoying.
I'm going to change the fluid a couple of times, as it's been on my "To Do" list for 18 months
Ouch!It's only a potential purchase. I like the low cost motoring my FL1 provides tbh. I'm not sure I could stomach giving the government any more tax.
Full Fat Range Rover.
I quite fancy an L322 and there's one local to me for sill money at the moment!
Its never quite as easy as the Rave manual makes out though! In jacking the engine it just jacked the car up with it. I expected the chassis to lift as I took the weight of the engine off it - but it was obviously going to high. The bolt from the mount was catching in the bracket and I had visions of it all of a sudden going and the chassis drop a foot and causing all sorts of grief. So I lowered it down and then started whacking the engine mount with an iron bar and #1 tool as I lifted it - this time it went well. Rave also said to fix the mount in place before lowering the engine - but that wasn't going to work as the top of the engine rocked back when lifted - probably on the lower tie bar. So I slotted the mount into the bracket then lowered the engine which lined everything up OK.
Spent a couple of hours fitting the replacement engine mount and lower tie bar today. No naughty words, it all went very easily
TBH, the old mount looked in perfect condition - not sure what the WOF tester found to be at fault. I hope he's not going to say it was the upper tie bar - that wasn't perfect, but not kaput. I replaced the lower tie bar just as a precaution, I've never replaced it and it may be original. Once again, it wasn't in to bad condition.
While I was under there, I noticed that the oil filter had worked its way loose again. That's the 2nd time I've fixed something on the car and while giving it a check over found the oil filter loose. I'm going to have to put a bit more ooomph into tightening them when I service it - I know its going to be a pain getting it off for the next service then but at least I'll still have an engine to service!
I've made myself a tool. Block of wood with 4 screws poking out that I hammer into the filter and a length of wood with more screws poking out at the end that slots into the first as a lever. Makes a right mess though
Interesting about the ties bar bushes being the same. Might come in useful.Well done sorting the mount out GG. I'm not sure why the mount would fail the WOF though. They are hydromounts. This means they are full of a sticky fluid. It's very obvious when they fail, as the fluid leaks out. The lower wishbone bushes on my D3 were hydrobushes. It was very obvious that they had failed, as they oozed the fluid out. They only did about 12K miles too, which is one reason I wasn't sorry to see it go.
If your upper tie bar has failed? You can fit the large bush from the lower bar into the upper bar if you need.
And not for the first time
I bought poly bushes for a K series upper and lower tie bars but they transferred a lot of vibration. I think the tie bars bushes are the same as the one on my old MGF so probably a few other Rover group cars with the same bushes.
(did I say the filter was loose!).
Oops
Hopefully it's the fluid and some fresh stuff will sort it, although I'd hold off on the Dr tranny til a second change, one this month followed by one next month to have the maximum effect. Fingers crossed.
Mike
Investigation will start, when I've finished mixing concrete!
Welcome To LandyZone, the Land Rover Forums!
Here at LandyZone we have plenty of very knowledgable members so if you have any questions about your Land Rover or just want to connect with other Landy owners, you're in the right place.
Registering is free and easy just click here, we hope to see you on the forums soon!
