Bang goes another prop

wammers said:

If you have a lift kit and castor correction and the angle from transfer box to prop and prop to axle are different and it is not phased correctly it has been under strain. Did you not take notice of the demo i posted? But to be fair the material the yolk is made from does look crap.

Click to expand...

By coincidence, last week I met an ex-LR mechanic who said the front prop on defenders was deliberately assembled out of phase to reduce backlash. This meant the UJs tended to fail prematurely, as I had found already. All you have to do, he said, is to disconnect one end, slide it out of the slider, and rotate to line up the yokes with each other.

guineafowl21 said:

By coincidence, last week I met an ex-LR mechanic who said the front prop on defenders was deliberately assembled out of phase to reduce backlash. This meant the UJs tended to fail prematurely, as I had found already. All you have to do, he said, is to disconnect one end, slide it out of the slider, and rotate to line up the yokes with each other.

Click to expand...

Which will make them fail even quicker.

wammers said:

Which will make them fail even quicker.

Click to expand...

What, lining up the yokes? I don't really know, just going on what he said.

guineafowl21 said:

What, lining up the yokes? I don't really know, just going on what he said.

Click to expand...

Step phasing is done for a reason. See the video i posted earlier.

guineafowl21 said:

By coincidence, last week I met an ex-LR mechanic who said the front prop on defenders was deliberately assembled out of phase to reduce backlash. This meant the UJs tended to fail prematurely, as I had found already. All you have to do, he said, is to disconnect one end, slide it out of the slider, and rotate to line up the yokes with each other.

Click to expand...

he has no idea then ,how could that reduce backlash either whats required or greater due to wear,front prop is out of phase because the diff flange and t box flange are not parallel, front diff points upwards

wammers said:

If you have a lift kit and castor correction and the angle from transfer box to prop and prop to axle are different and it is not phased correctly it has been under strain. Did you not take notice of the demo i posted? But to be fair the material the yolk is made from does look crap.

Click to expand...

Yup, hence the reason I fitted a double carden prop. Been running the standard one for a little while now with no issue and it's had a tough workout. I assume it was just a ****e prop, another britpart product to avoid! Reckon I'm going to invent a CV propshaft, UJ's are prehistoric in relation to CV's.

Willbof said:

Been running the standard one for a little while now with no issue and it's had a tough workout.

Click to expand...

I thought you said from your previous post that you changed it from the std prop due to vibration, at least that was what you were advising another poster??
But now it is OK??

Cheers

neilly said:

I thought you said from your previous post that you changed it from the std prop due to vibration, at least that was what you were advising another poster??
But now it is OK??

Cheers

Click to expand...

I did, was getting some vibration with the standard prop due to lift and castor correction so swapped to a double. that failed immediately although it did fix the vibrations straight away so switched back, still get vibration but I'd rather that than snapping props. I still think it's the way forward but will invest in a quality item rather than britpart

Pay the money and get a proper double Cardon from gwyn Lewis
D2 double cardon is not designed for lifted vehicles

johnlad said:

D2 double cardon is not designed for lifted vehicles

Click to expand...

TBF, to him, it does appear all the usual suspects are selling it as acceptable for the Fender as well.
https://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/land-rover...le-cardan-extreme-use-front-propshaft-da6355/


Cheers

Sadly your mods are to enhance off road capability. Off road capability and motorways at 50-60-70 MPH do not go hand in hand. That is one of the reasons the P38 air suspension will drop from wade height to standard height above 35 MPH and to motorway height at anything over 50 MPH. It is altering the angle of the props to suit the higher speeds and give less angle of operation reducing to a minimum exactly the problem you have created with your modifications..

Willbof said:

Yup, hence the reason I fitted a double carden prop. Been running the standard one for a little while now with no issue and it's had a tough workout. I assume it was just a ****e prop, another britpart product to avoid! Reckon I'm going to invent a CV propshaft, UJ's are prehistoric in relation to CV's.

Click to expand...

Such a thing has already been invented out in Australia. Called the Thomson coupling,look it up on you tube.Cheers.

Quote from JGS website.

Replacement, extreme use double cardan front propshaft kit. For vehicles with LT230 transfer boxes.

Ideal for lifted vehicles, helps to reduce vibration where diff and transfer box flanges are not in-line

Kit contains double cardan propshaft, replacement transfer box drive flange and fitting kit.

neilly said:

TBF, to him, it does appear all the usual suspects are selling it as acceptable for the Fender as well.
https://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/land-rover...le-cardan-extreme-use-front-propshaft-da6355/


Cheers

Click to expand...

Yeah, but unless the double cardon prop has wide angle u/j's then it's no better than standard, and there is no mention of any in the advert

https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product/...e-wide-angle-hd-prop-gl-dc-ultra-ext-600-new/
Thats whats needed

johnlad said:

https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product/...e-wide-angle-hd-prop-gl-dc-ultra-ext-600-new/
Thats whats needed

Click to expand...

I agree they are nice bits of kit.

johnlad said:

D2 double cardon is not designed for lifted vehicles

Click to expand...

Without getting itnto an argument.
What I was referring to was you stated D2 double cardons are not designed for lifted vehicles, as you will note from the advert for this particular unit, it is designed for fenders and it also states it is "ideal for lifted vehicles", shame they do not quantify what a lifted vehicle is.

I personally think a std wide angle prop is a better bet, from a reputable supplier. But the point was, it would appear he has not fitted a std D2 DC prop but one that is advertised to meet his requirements in theory.

Cheers

johnlad said:

https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product/...e-wide-angle-hd-prop-gl-dc-ultra-ext-600-new/
Thats whats needed

Click to expand...

You will notice that this one is phased.

wammers said:

You will notice that this one is phased.

Click to expand...

In the description, it says 'phased when required to reduce vibrations'. What does this mean - you order it phased or unphased according to suit?

guineafowl21 said:

In the description, it says 'phased when required to reduce vibrations'. What does this mean - you order it phased or unphased according to suit?

Click to expand...

I refer you to the video i posted that should make things clear. When the angle of the joint from transfer box to prop and prop to diff flange is different, phasing can be used to reduce elliptical rotational differences. If you have an unphased prop were the angles are different transfer box to prop and prop to diff flange you will always have elliptical rotational differences. Because the joint at the transfer box end because of it's greater angle is describing a larger circle that the end attached to the diff. That loads the prop shaft.

If it is "phased" or not is up to you just by separating at the spline joint.