Disco 2 TD5 cranks but wont turnover.

Sorry to copy and paste but I originally posted this in the wrong place.

Greetings to all. My name is Jonty and I am a South African Landy owner. I bought my Disco 2 via Gumtree last year March. She is, as far as I know, a 2001 model.

The guy who sold her to me said he had bought her from his mother in law who'd bought it 2nd hand from a dealership.

He told me what a brilliant vehicle she is etc. Said he ran out of fuel and after that could not get her started again.

He said he had her taken in and they checked the head out (I can see the head bolts are brand new), replaced the glow plugs and then, finally, ran a diagnostic. He said it reported an electrical error but was not specific as to what the error was.

After many painful hours of trying whatever I could think of to get this vehicle to turnover, I have reached the conclusion that I was lied to.

What I have done thus far:

Done the purge procedure ( as per what I read online).

Replaced (in tank) fuel pump with brand new one.

Bought the biggest battery I could find.

Replaced the Crank Position Sensor.

Replaced injector harness and rings/seals.

Cleaned off the oil and dirt from the ECU plugs and wires. Sent the ECU in to check if it was still fine. Guys said it was good.

Cleaned of any oil and muck from cabling and wiring.

Replaced the fuel filter.

Replaced the non return valve.

Replaced the fuel pressure regulator.

Reset the innertia switch.

Made sure the immobilizer is disengaged.

To date she cranks but wont turnover. I crank and crank until the battery runs down. Battery is only 3 months old. Bought it brand new.

She is an automatic so I have been told that I cannot tow start her.

Today I took off the air filter and sprayed Quick Start (aerosol ethanol) directly into the air hose and got my wife to crank it. She almost sounded like she wanted to take, but the same problem persists.

I don't own a compression tester and the diesel specific ones are out of my price range.

I am truly at my wits end.

Any constructive advice from those who have had similar issues would be most welcome.

My wife has reached the limit of her patience ( I took a loan to buy this car and she was not thrilled with this idea) and says I should flog it off for parts.

I really don't want to do that as I have always wanted a Landy.

But our budget is suffering because of what I am starting to feel was very poor judgement on my part

Hi Jonty,

Nice to see you over here.....
One thing, iirc, the TD5 needs to have at least 10.5V when the engine is cranking. Just for your info so if you are continuously cranking and the battery is dying then you are onto a loser at that point.

Also, you said you tried the purge procedure before, did you try checking to see if fuel is getting to the engine?

Just for my info, how did you make sure the immobilser was disengaged? an immobilised car will not crank.

Cheers

I used my key (luckily it is the original) to disengage it/switch it off. So the light on the dash went out, which I inturn assume means the immobiliser is suitably not active. I stand to be corrected however.

When doing the purge procedure I can hear the fuel flowing through the head. Therefore I assume that the fuel is i deed getting to the motor. But again, I could be wrong.

I must say one thing I forgot to mention is that when I checked her oil, it smelled of diesel. This neccessitated a full oil drain and after letting her drain over two full days I put in brand new oil.

Today I checked the dipstick again and realised that diesel is definitely making its way into the oil again.

My uncle said this could be due to me trying to crank and thereby flooding the motor. I guess he could be onto something.

I have a 110 amp hour battery with a 850 cold cranking. I was assured that it would turn her over.

Hi

The MY of your car is 2001, you said, Is it a 10P engine or a 15P engine?
Diesel in oil, can be injector washers / seals gone, or worse case scenario a crack in the head.

Have you seen this website as well, a very useful resource to a D2 owner.
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/ even includes a section on washers and seals.

Also, a Defender owner @Alan Crossley is having a problem with his TD5 fender starting, May be worth keeping an eye on each others posts .You never know what you will learn.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...when-towing-in-td5.302580/page-2#post-3963352

Cheers

neilly said:

Hi

The MY of your car is 2001, you said, Is it a 10P engine or a 15P engine?
Diesel in oil, can be injector washers / seals gone, or worse case scenario a crack in the head.

Have you seen this website as well, a very useful resource to a D2 owner.
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/ even includes a section on washers and seals.

Also, a Defender owner @Alan Crossley is having a problem with his TD5 fender starting, May be worth keeping an eye on each others posts .You never know what you will learn.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...when-towing-in-td5.302580/page-2#post-3963352

Cheers

Click to expand...

Ok cool thanks! I will go check it out thanks for the tips.

I have no clue? How would I check whether 10P or 15P?

I replaced the injector seals two weekends ago. I fear greatly that it just may be a cracked head. I will have to bite the bullet and take the head out and send it to the engineers for testing.

I have even considered buying a Hawkeye Diagnostics tool to assist me but the wife just might put me up for sale on gumtree.

10Por 15P is the engine number, It is on the engine ,looking at the engine from the front it is ont the RH side near the exhaust . Mine was a right PITA to find and read. Or in the UK it id on our paperwork.

There were changes made between the two due to issues etc, one of them was the fuel line running thru the engine.

regarding the Hawkeye, if you did, then I would suggest looking at the Hawkeye TOTAL, as it appears it is unlocked for all LR models. Rather than the std Hawkeye or nanocom.

Cheers

neilly said:

10Por 15P is the engine number, It is on the engine ,looking at the engine from the front it is ont the RH side near the exhaust . Mine was a right PITA to find and read. Or in the UK it id on our paperwork.

There were changes made between the two due to issues etc, one of them was the fuel line running thru the engine.

regarding the Hawkeye, if you did, then I would suggest looking at the Hawkeye TOTAL, as it appears it is unlocked for all LR models. Rather than the std Hawkeye or nanocom.

Cheers

Click to expand...

Ok just checked on my registration papers and it is a 10p.

Cool I will google that.

Ok well that is great to know. Glad they have a model that is unlocked for all makes now.

Thanks again.

Some things to do:
-swap relays R9(main) with R8(heated screen) or R6(glow plugs) to rule out the relay,
-check fuse F1
a problem can be the starter cos if it has an internal fault it disturbs the crank signal,... forget about immobiliser, immobilised means no crank

btw can you hear the pump running?

sierrafery said:

Some things to do:
-swap relays R9(main) with R8(heated screen) or R6(glow plugs) to rule out the relay,
-check fuse F1
a problem can be the starter cos if it has an internal fault it disturbs the crank signal,... forget about immobiliser, immobilised means no crank

btw can you hear the pump running?

Click to expand...

Hi there.

Yes I can hear the pump running.

Great ideas. Will try them as soon as I get a chance.

Thank you!
J

also check that diesel getting to engine at pressure, friend was working on a disco and one of the pipes inside the pump had come loose, diesel was still flowing just not at a high enough preassure to do anything...

An Update:

Had the head open last night and wife pointed out there were pools of diesel all over the place. We were quite perplexed. I had watched a little annimation on Youtube of the TD5 motor in action and I began to suspect the timing may be out ( even though I was told that it had been checked).

After a lot of hassel we managed to turn the motor manually to find that the timing notches do not line up at all. In fact they are basically 180° out of sync.

So will have to set the timing in and take it from there. I am actually now really glad the motor did not fire up as I dread bending valves and cracking shim buckets.

I think whomever worked on this vehicle prior to my purchasing it had no clue as to what exactly they were trying to achieve.

The saga continues...