Series 2 Bulkhead Galvanising

I did a search but can't see anything about the captive plates for door hinges when bulkheads are galved. Don't they get stuck up?

rob corner said:

I did a search but can't see anything about the captive plates for door hinges when bulkheads are galved. Don't they get stuck up?

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Got it in yer intro fred, we can see all the posts on lz live!

But not a bad idea to post here too, maybe someone else will have further info!

Are the captive nuts for the hinge bolts not removable clips (link)? They are for my 110 and series III, they are spring clips that grip to the bulkhead cut out (link). If this is the case just remove them before having it galvanized and then refit with new stainless ones afterwards.

Normally any threaded parts need cleaning out with a tap but on a series 2 the door mounting if I recall correctly is a plate inside a retainer that can be slid up and down.
Can you not just remove it and fit the later series 3 type

dag019 said:

Are the captive nuts for the hinge bolts not removable clips (link)? They are for my 110 and series III, they are spring clips that grip to the bulkhead cut out (link). If this is the case just remove them before having it galvanized and then refit with new stainless ones afterwards.

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Ah I think that explains why there are not many questions about this! no unfortunately they are fully captive on the early ones. But that does look like an easy modification and would solve the problem perfectly. The door pillars look pretty thick at that point - triple thickness, whereas looks just double on yours but shouldn't be much of an issue. So I just need to make a central square hole and then address the harder bit of cutting access from the front to extract the existing hinge plates and weld it back up after. A pity as mine only needed minimal repair in that area.

Learn something new everyday. I have not worked on one of those so did not realise it was different. A friend has a series I which is completely different but I had just assumed when they moved away from the removal doors they used the same design throughout the life line. But as they have subtley changed other things between models it does not surprise me that is is different.

Most early series two type bulkheads will have had their door pillars replaced by now with the later type due to rust, so yours is unusual.

Why not put bolts into the captive plate prior to dipping it then remove said bolts after plating???

That would work but I think there is potential for the plates getting clagged up with galv and being stuck. Bolts left in plates would be OK but there's a chance they'd snap off after the hot dip process and that would be a bugger to sort out. I like the idea of making the captive nuts removeable like the later versions.