Disco 2 TD5 Oil pump bolt

My Disco 2 has 161,000 on the clock - d'ya think I can assume that someone has already taken care of the oil pump sprocket bolt or is there evidence of it affecting high mileage trucks also?

Don't want to drop the sump and risk oil leaks etc unless there is a real need.

SteveClv said:

d'ya think I can assume that someone has already taken care of the oil pump sprocket bolt

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Never assume anything. For the price of a gasket and a replacement bolt it's worth doing at the oil change and you'll know for certain it's done.

I know but it's also the cross member bolts etc - I just wondered if anyone had had a failure at high mileage.

I can't say about the oil pump bolt at that mileage but if you'll decide to remove the sump better remove the front cover too cos a quite common problem at high mileage is the wear of the chain guides which are plastic, only one example what can happen(this piece falled apart when it was touched):

Just a tip from a newbie, I attempted the oil pump bolt on Friday. Get the cross member bolts out first as I had to abandon the job as I couldn't budge 5 of the 8 bolts, and had stupidly already drained the sump of oil. Lesson learnt

sherwood said:

Just a tip from a newbie, I attempted the oil pump bolt on Friday. Get the cross member bolts out first as I had to abandon the job as I couldn't budge 5 of the 8 bolts, and had stupidly already drained the sump of oil. Lesson learnt

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LOL, if only this has been warned about .....

Cheers

Are all models of the TD5 engine likely to have this issue with the oil pump bolt, or it is only the early years of the engine production? i.e. Was it fixed towards the end of it's production run?

As per the links posted when you asked what it was a month or so ago, recently the oil pump bolt failed onan 04 engine.

You roll the dice and take a chance.

Cheers

neilly said:

As per the links posted when you asked what it was a month or so ago, recently the oil pump bolt failed onan 04 engine.

You roll the dice and take a chance.

Cheers

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Sorry, I forgot I'd already asked.

Just on reading this write up was enough for me to get it replaced, was having issues with the sump plug thread anyway so just got hold of a second hand sump - Peace of Mind
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Oil_pump_bolt.html

sherwood said:

Just a tip from a newbie, I attempted the oil pump bolt on Friday. Get the cross member bolts out first as I had to abandon the job as I couldn't budge 5 of the 8 bolts, and had stupidly already drained the sump of oil. Lesson learnt

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Thanks - I'm under her today doing some welding on the rear chassis (first time arc welding for 36 years gulp!) so I'll see if I can soak and crack the bolts - if I can then I guess I'll drop the sump - if not then I'll go for the crossed fingers instead
Not sure about the chain guides - can they be easily replaced in situ or is it a bigger strip down job?

The cross-member bolts are not your standard parts, they are thread-cutting bolts that make their own thread, so best to get into the side of the cross-member and soak the ends of the bolts well, then let them sit for a while.

I've ended up with a few stripped out and have taken the weld-nut bodies out and put conventional nuts and bolts in, but there isn't much room and you can't fit a threaded insert as there isn't the depth for it.

Peter

SteveClv said:

Not sure about the chain guides - can they be easily replaced in situ or is it a bigger strip down job?

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From the Rave files...............This shows the head off, reading about it, others have managed without removing the head.

Cheers

SteveClv said:

Not sure about the chain guides - can they be easily replaced in situ or is it a bigger strip down job?

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Once you are watching them it's a 5 minute job in situ, no need to "disturb" the head for them

I'm slightly concerned now... mine has just passed the 160k mark. If the bolt falls out, does it "destroy the engine" simply due to the oil pump not pumping any more or does it mash the timing chain due to the loose oil pump chain rattling about?

Bobdog said:

I'm slightly concerned now... mine has just passed the 160k mark. If the bolt falls out, does it "destroy the engine" simply due to the oil pump not pumping any more or does it mash the timing chain due to the loose oil pump chain rattling about?

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Appears that the engine has no oil going around and the engine gets fubarred , unless you are really lucky and manage to stop it as soon as the red light comes on.

Cheers

neilly said:

Appears that the engine has no oil going around and the engine gets fubarred , unless you are really lucky and manage to stop it as soon as the red light comes on.

Cheers

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I would have thought the oil pressure light would come on immediately if the sprocket falls off?? Also, that little chain bouncing around loose on the crankshaft sprocket looks like it could cause terminal damage if it got caught in the timing chain!

@Bobdog , Yes the light should come on immediately, as there would be no pressure, not sure why you have it as a question.

All the results of this failure mode I have read about appear to be lackof oil causing engine failure. not damage due to the chain rattling around. At the edn of the day a fubarred engine is just that. If it is a concern then remove the sump and check it.

Cheers

What mileage does this become a problem
16 P Engine 78,000 miles

@ROY SIMPSON From what i can gather it is not mileage specific.

It was a concern on the older 10P engines, the story is that LR fitted bolts that had no threadlock on them, However some later engines have also had the same failure mode.
It is not what you would consider a common problem, but as it is a simple thing to check and the result of failure is potentially catastrophic to my mind it was worth the little effort it took to check it.

Cheers