P38A wheel bearings

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rover75lover

Active Member
Posts
203
Location
newport.wales.uk
1999 diesel manual 123,000
hiya, now ive bought a 1999 p 38 and got it mot 'd etc.
Had a few problems the bulk of which due to it being stood for 2 years.
the farmer who had it died,the children lived abroad and the old girl was left in barn for two years.
She's back on the road and going well. Now I'm fairly certain I have a wheel bearing problem,no play at all in any but i've a rumbling noise ,if i turn to the right it dissapears. Probably due to not being used and rust forming on the bearings.
Is there an easy way to determine which bearing is noisy ? i remember once i had a nissan micra and youd swear it was the front wheel bearings ,changed them both ,only to find out it was a rear one and the noise was being transmitted throughout the body. so this time id like to try and find out which one it is!
plus the bearings ,hubs arent as cheap as the £17.00 nissan ones,lol
many thanks
 
jack up each wheel one at a time leave wheel on feel for play in bearing by holding tyre either side and gently trying to move it side to side turn wheel and try in different positions if you feel play in wheel it tells you wheel bearing is worn a worn wheel bearing or leaking seal can leak oil onto the brake disc and pads reducing brake efficiency and ruining brake pads
 
The bearings are lubricated by grease and the seals very rarely if ever leak. It is possible to have a noisy bearing on a P38 without any detectable movement in the bearing. A badly worn one with movement that is detectable will give ABS problems.
 
The bearings are lubricated by grease and the seals very rarely if ever leak. It is possible to have a noisy bearing on a P38 without any detectable movement in the bearing. A badly worn one with movement that is detectable will give ABS problems.
the reason I gave you that aDVICE IS THROUGH EXPERIANCE MY P38 HAD A NOISE I FOUND THE REAR WHEEL BEARING WHITCH IS ATTACHED TO THE AXLE WHICH HAS OIL IN IT WAS INDEED LEAKING ONTO MY BRAKE PADS AND WHEN I CHECKED FOR PLAY IN THE BEARINGS I FOUND WEAR WICH CAUSED THE OIL SEAL TO LEAK
 
the reason I gave you that aDVICE IS THROUGH EXPERIANCE MY P38 HAD A NOISE I FOUND THE REAR WHEEL BEARING WHITCH IS ATTACHED TO THE AXLE WHICH HAS OIL IN IT WAS INDEED LEAKING ONTO MY BRAKE PADS AND WHEN I CHECKED FOR PLAY IN THE BEARINGS I FOUND WEAR WICH CAUSED THE OIL SEAL TO LEAK

I really don't need your advise, if you had a rear wheel bearing badly enough worn to cause the axle oil seal to fail it should have been apparent long before the oil seal went south. Axle oil seals do fail of their own volition.
 
Has to be pretty bad to show movement. Could wait until the ABS throw a fault? Although I know any niggly noise does my head in.

You can get the complete hub unit with a Timkin bearing from a place in Brum for about £200.
 
Has to be pretty bad to show movement. Could wait until the ABS throw a fault? Although I know any niggly noise does my head in.

You can get the complete hub unit with a Timkin bearing from a place in Brum for about £200.

You can get a Timken bearing for £70.00 and fit it yourself. Mind you that would involve a big press. Fortunately i have one. ;):D
 
I don't mind having a go but how does one decide which one is rumbling . Ive jacked up the front and cant find any wobble and the same with the rear,again no wobble.Do I have to wait until it gets bad enough to be detected or has anyone got a magical,ok logical way to locate which one.
Ive had her some 6 months and got her to a standard im happy with but the noise is driving the other half nuts so im getting the noise in one ear,her in the other!!!
 
I don't mind having a go but how does one decide which one is rumbling . Ive jacked up the front and cant find any wobble and the same with the rear,again no wobble.Do I have to wait until it gets bad enough to be detected or has anyone got a magical,ok logical way to locate which one.
Ive had her some 6 months and got her to a standard im happy with but the noise is driving the other half nuts so im getting the noise in one ear,her in the other!!!
is the noise worse when cornering if so which way
 
straight its great,noiseless,turn to right its noisy,straighten up its quiet.turn to left its noisy. Ive checke the uj and all good,happens on the pull so to speak and the overun. . Dip the clutch going down a hill ,same symptoms.
Im wondering if being stood for two years in a barn, the owner passed on and his kids were abroad and this was in a neighbours barn awaiting repair to the lower ball joint,if ive got rust on the bearings but i would have hoped the grease in them would have stopped this.
She's done 123,ooo miles ,i know sexist calling it a she but i do love my rangey and i wanted a manual late reg as an um special bday pressie to myself . No im not telling anyone when it is or ill have to buy you all a drink . Its a welsh thing,lol.
I know its a lot of work but if i undo the shaft nut on the hub,wheel off,brake piston off,abs sensor off,remove the hub holding bolts ,remove the hub then the halfshaft thingy,rebolt the hub back on ,then find some way of attaching my drill to the hum. If I then rev my drill up slowly ,im hoping i might get the rumble on the "worn" hub.
at least id get some sort of peace of mind rather than change one,drive it and then find out its the last one i change!!!!
If any one has any thoughts or better ideas id be most grateful
Ive worked out on 16 " wheels the hub has to do 721 revs to one mile ,so if i cut this in half to 360 revs in one minute thats 30 miles per hour,which is a lot faster than i can spin the wheel jacked up.
Alternatively ,if i remove the front propshaft jack up the rear,would she drive the rear wheels only so i could determine if the noise is on the rear,then bolt it back on ,remove the rear then try to hear if the noise comes from the front. Well it would reduce my stripping done by 50 %
Would she drive with either propshaft removedd or will i have to remove traction control?
Like I said shes a late 1999 rangerover manual diesel 5 speed box on 16 " wheels

Apologies for long post
 
straight its great,noiseless,turn to right its noisy,straighten up its quiet.turn to left its noisy. Ive checke the uj and all good,happens on the pull so to speak and the overun. . Dip the clutch going down a hill ,same symptoms.
Im wondering if being stood for two years in a barn, the owner passed on and his kids were abroad and this was in a neighbours barn awaiting repair to the lower ball joint,if ive got rust on the bearings but i would have hoped the grease in them would have stopped this.
She's done 123,ooo miles ,i know sexist calling it a she but i do love my rangey and i wanted a manual late reg as an um special bday pressie to myself . No im not telling anyone when it is or ill have to buy you all a drink . Its a welsh thing,lol.
I know its a lot of work but if i undo the shaft nut on the hub,wheel off,brake piston off,abs sensor off,remove the hub holding bolts ,remove the hub then the halfshaft thingy,rebolt the hub back on ,then find some way of attaching my drill to the hum. If I then rev my drill up slowly ,im hoping i might get the rumble on the "worn" hub.
at least id get some sort of peace of mind rather than change one,drive it and then find out its the last one i change!!!!
If any one has any thoughts or better ideas id be most grateful
Ive worked out on 16 " wheels the hub has to do 721 revs to one mile ,so if i cut this in half to 360 revs in one minute thats 30 miles per hour,which is a lot faster than i can spin the wheel jacked up.
Alternatively ,if i remove the front propshaft jack up the rear,would she drive the rear wheels only so i could determine if the noise is on the rear,then bolt it back on ,remove the rear then try to hear if the noise comes from the front. Well it would reduce my stripping done by 50 %
Would she drive with either propshaft removedd or will i have to remove traction control?
Like I said shes a late 1999 rangerover manual diesel 5 speed box on 16 " wheels

Apologies for long post
you can run on one prop but just be steady
 
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