Swaying? 95 county lwb

goonarmy said:

Thats not good news

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nope not at all also went by this link https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/the-definitive-freelander-vcu-testing-thread.99163/ says for freelander but I figured it has to be about the same and still no steady spin in the wheel its will go about 5 inches then it will stop completely and wont move

Freelander is AWD like VAG and VOLVO, an AOC Haldex coupling attached to rear diff, (active on command), bears little resemblance to what you have.

myfirstl322 said:

Freelander is AWD like VAG and VOLVO, an AOC Haldex coupling attached to rear diff, (active on command), bears little resemblance to what you have.

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either way I tested it with the front wheel up with the others on the ground and the rear wheel and got the same results...

Merely clarifying that Freelanders have a Haldex nailed to the rear diff, in some marque iterations this coupling is latent until sensors command it to hook up and provide drive to the rear diff along with the permanently driven front axle, in other marques it is switchable via, er,,,a switch.
They do not possess a VCU as you have, which sounds awfully like your problem.
Reminds me of leaving the diff lock on in Tractor, it didn't like turning.
Each wheel needs to be free do it's thang..
Glad you have a handle on your issue.

myfirstl322 said:

Merely clarifying that Freelanders have a Haldex nailed to the rear diff, in some marque iterations this coupling is latent until sensors command it to hook up and provide drive to the rear diff along with the permanently driven front axle, in other marques it is switchable via, er,,,a switch.
They do not possess a VCU as you have, which sounds awfully like your problem.
Glad you have a handle on your issue.

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Seems a bit dickish how I responded lol sorry. So you think the vcu being seized could cause jerking? Im just confused bc I cant find anything on a viscous coupling causing swaying in any vehicle.

I'm no expert ( you guessed right?)....but the front wheels because they steer require to be able to revolve more times per metre (YARD) whilst cornering than the rears due to scrub angle and ackerman principle ete etc etc, that is different slightly from the role the individual diffs play in this, whereby they allow each axle pair of wheels to revolve in their each desired revolutions as you corner ie. right hand corner = left hand wheels revolve many more times than the right...the VCU in my mind is basically a central diff allowing differential action between front and rear.........before I confound myself what you are experiencing is commonly referred to as wind up, the wheel that is skipping or squealing needs to revolve more times per yard , this would be achieved normally by a healthy VCU.

Early AWD (Not 4x4) up to around 2003 had a viscous coupling instead of a multi disc affair requiring tyres be matching tread depth, thankfully the later systems requires no such nonsense.

myfirstl322 said:

I'm no expert ( you guessed right?)....but the front wheels because they steer require to be able to revolve more times per metre ( sorry, YARD) due to scrub angle, ackerman principle ete etc etc, that is different from the role the individual diffs play in this, whereby they allow each axle pair of wheels to revolve in their each desired revolutions as you corner, the VCU in my mind is basically a central diff allowing differential action between front and rear.........before I confound myself what you are experiencing is commonly referred to as wind up, the wheel that is skipping or squealing needs to revolve more times per yard , this would be achieved normally by a healthy VCU.

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So with a healthy VCU the front wheels should or should not wind up? You are more of an expert than me this is new territory to me if you cant tell lol. Im great at listening to advice and acting upon it and thats about it

Ok, if Wammers gave the low down it is Gospel, lift a wheel and apply 60lbs ft leverage to that wheel, that's quite a low figure torque wise....easliy achievable with even a 'cross' wheel brace and a healthy human
It sounds like the test was a fail so all I can add other than my Haldex diatribe is it sounds like your VCU is faulty.
You should upgrade to something newerer, then it would be a software gremlin
Don't waste any more tyres. A fuqued VCU is forcing rear axle revolutions per Yard onto the front axle when they really need more freedom.

myfirstl322 said:

Ok, if Wammers gave the low down it is Gospel, lift a wheel and apply 60lbs ft leverage to that wheel, that's quite a low figure torque wise....easliy achievable with even a 'cross' wheel brace and a healthy human
It sounds like the test was a fail so all I can add other than my Haldex diatribe is it sounds like your VCU is faulty.
You should upgrade to something newerer, then it would be a software gremlin
Don't waste any more tyres. A fuqued VCU is forcing rear axle revolutions per Yard onto the front axle when they really need more freedom.

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As in upgrade to something newer you mean the transfer case?

Nooo, lol, I meant Range Rover L322 (2002>2013) preferably supercharged

I'd far rather wade in luxury, my old bultler gets a rather whoopy chest cough if I make him depth find these days, and it's so hard to replace ones man.
I just chance it and hope it's not overly deep, if I float i'm bound to come ashore at a quaint Inn.

myfirstl322 said:

Nooo, lol, I meant Range Rover L322 (2002>2013) preferably supercharged

I'd far rather have my butler wade than to don wellington boots

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The comedy within you is amazing lol. Are you under the bridge again like last time? lol Well unfortunately the newer is out of the question as im not made of money at 17 lol.

There must be a SHOP you can seek advice from, no?
Nobody here is going to suddenly say it's the giggling pin wot needs changing mate, 8 quid and 5 minutes to change!

I appreciate your young, but you have so much more info at your fingertips than when I was was your age.
If you were round the corner there would be multiple offers of physical help from here I'm sure of that, unfortunately there's a bloody great pond in the way of that.

You haven't had to live to through a Haynes manual indexing change!!!
Think Coca Cola recipe change but Haynes ran with it...and still do!!!! You weren't there man.

myfirstl322 said:

There must be a SHOP you can seek advice from, no?
Nobody here is going to suddenly say it's the giggling pin wot needs changing mate, 8 quid and 5 minutes to change!

I appreciate your young, but you have so much more info at your fingertips than when I was was your age.
If you were round the corner there would be multiple offers of physical help from here I'm sure of that, unfortunately there's a bloody great pond in the way of that.

You haven't had to live to through a Haynes manual indexing change!!!
Think Coca Cola recipe change but Haynes ran with it...and still do!!!! You weren't there man.

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I could take it to a shop but the places around me only want your hard earned cash so its better to do it yourself I realize no one is gonna just tell me to replace this and all my problems would be solved if I wanted that I would sell the car and buy something else I only come here for advice I want to see if anyone else has had a similar problem and what they did so I can get some ideas on what it could be. *I thinks its getting dumbed down to the VCU* It could be other things that are causing it but at least from here ive discovered that it needs to be replaced. I would have never found that out reading the Haynes manual its good for helping you replace things but as far as something ive never seen before it doesn't help. I have already done all the testing I know to do the only thing left is to take it to a shop so they can charge me 100 dollars to "look" at my vehicle and tell me "this" is wrong with it and that they cant get the parts for it so they cant fix it, just so I can go home buy the parts put them on and problem is still there. Been there done that. Not worth my time or money to go to a shop and get told bs or I can come here and talk to people who have dealt with these vehicles before. sorry for a bit of a rant but the shops where I live *middle of nowhere* are a JOKE!

myfirstl322 said:

Freelander is AWD like VAG and VOLVO, an AOC Haldex coupling attached to rear diff, (active on command), bears little resemblance to what you have.

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You are getting confused. Gaylander 2 have Hadlex, gaylanders have a vcu and the test is the same. The Hadlex stuff is a red herring.

It does indeed sound like your VCU is seized. Part number you need is RTC6044. New they will be expensive, you may be able to get a reconditioned or second hand one for less money. I suggest you remove the front prop shaft and apply 15-20 lb ft torque direct to the front drive flange of the transfer box, the VCU should turn 90 degrees in a minute or so. If it still does not move, drive with front prop removed until you find a replacement for the VCU. For the swaying check the front radius arm bushes for movement. Good luck.

surplus said:

I jacked the passenger side front wheel and put a breaker bar on the lug nut and put almost all my weight on the end of the breaker bar and the wheel didnt spin at all not sure if thats what I was supposed to do to check the vcu but yeah i put about what I thought was 60 ft lb and it didnt budge either

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It will move very slowly. Depends how long your breaker bar is. Try putting some force into it up till your full weight. Just keep it on there and it should slowly turn. handbrake on, gearbox in neutral?

goonarmy said:

You are getting confused. Gaylander 2 have Hadlex, gaylanders have a vcu and the test is the same. The Hadlex stuff is a red herring.

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Thank you for de-confusing me,,,,silver darling

I'd also get underneath and check all the bushes with a flat head screwdriver. Unless it's yer self leveling thingy which the names escapes me at the moment

keep persisting young guy! If you have been over the obvious, I.e bushes and ball joints, then you will narrow it down.. Patience is free.. Ive never had any car jerk violently as you describe.. That is down right effing scary. You could give a $100 at two different garages to be told two different theory's. Hit and miss. As proposed, take off your front prop shaft and test it. If there is no symptoms then refit and remove the rear propshaft. If no symptoms at all through the whole process then it would seem the part joining both axles together ain't doing its stuff! Trial and error won't cost you. Keep your chin dude!

sorry for repointing anything out!