Dave Smith's Freelander

Locks.
My old girl (3-door) has keys with separate plips.
The keys open the doors and work the ignition. However I am missing the fuel filler flap (including the matching lock) and the tailgate lock seems unrelated to the keys.
As my plips are not part of the keys, I assume I can just swap in a new set of barrels without the hassle of getting things coded to the vehicle as long as I retain a matching set of plips and computers...

davidsmith1307 said:

Locks.
My old girl (3-door) has keys with separate plips.
The keys open the doors and work the ignition. However I am missing the fuel filler flap (including the matching lock) and the tailgate lock seems unrelated to the keys.
As my plips are not part of the keys, I assume I can just swap in a new set of barrels without the hassle of getting things coded to the vehicle as long as I retain a matching set of plips and computers...

Click to expand...

Depends on the year. The MY01 onwards keys have the immobiliser transponder in the key. It can be taken out and put into a new key however.
Early keys don't have the immobiliser transponder fitted, as it's in the fob instead.

The keys are easily identified as shape is different.
Flat hinged keys are early and don't have transponders.
Tear drop shaped keys are post MY01 and do have the transponder fitted.

I'm flat, hinged and happy!
Cheers @Nodge68

Plugged my tailgate handle rust holes with Quick Steel after cleaning up and treating all the bare bits with Buzzweld RCP.
Took my spare wheel carrier off and removed all the leaves.
What would people recommend for a nice textured finish on the carrier? I was considering Buzzweld CIO (as I have some) but I'm not sure how dark it comes out.

Alibro uses stone chip to good effect. Diesel Do used truck bed spray protection coating. Both look good, but bed protection coatings are tougher.

Well I might have a crack with the CIO and then we'll all know how it comes out.
Nothing ventured...

I used underseal on mine, hasn't rusted surprisingly
Mike

Isn't it alloy?

davidsmith1307 said:

Plugged my tailgate handle rust holes with Quick Steel after cleaning up and treating all the bare bits with Buzzweld RCP.
Took my spare wheel carrier off and removed all the leaves.
What would people recommend for a nice textured finish on the carrier? I was considering Buzzweld CIO (as I have some) but I'm not sure how dark it comes out.

Click to expand...

This is the stuff.
Bloody brilliant at covering up all the scratches caused by cleaning it up with a wire wheel.
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/c...air/stone-chip-protection/?549774241&&cc5_712

davidsmith1307 said:

Isn't it alloy?

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Yes. Alloy doesn't rust, but does corrode. Getting a decent covering will keep it looking good.

I used satin black smoothrite on mine - which looks fine. I suspect that more textured paints (like that used by Ali) would be better

I think post 2001 FLs use the EV3 immobiliser - earlier cars the 7AS? I'm sure Nodge is right about the transponders - the system seems to be quite similar to that found on the Rover 75.

Mine is old, so life is good
All old things are intrinsically better... As I tell my wife.

rob_bell said:

I think post 2001 FLs use the EV3 immobiliser - earlier cars the 7AS? I'm sure Nodge is right about the transponders - the system seems to be quite similar to that found on the Rover 75.

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That's my take on it too. Early is the same as MGF, Rover 25, Rover 45. Later post MY01 used the Rover 75 system. The FL1 shares a few parts in common with the Rover 75, door locks included.

Nodge68 said:

That's my take on it too. Early is the same as MGF, Rover 25, Rover 45. Later post MY01 used the Rover 75 system. The FL1 shares a few parts in common with the Rover 75, door locks included.

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Yes, that does seem to be the case. The early FL1s seem to be a AWD Rover 200 - but the later ones changed to a more BMW orientated electrical system. Not really sure why? Is this where BMW thought they would see the most return on their investment, or is the electrical system on early cars really that flaky? I think the former rather than the latter?

Odd too that other Rover group cars didn't get the same electrical system? Any way, that's an altogether different conversation...

rob_bell said:

Yes, that does seem to be the case. The early FL1s seem to be a AWD Rover 200 - but the later ones changed to a more BMW orientated electrical system. Not really sure why? Is this where BMW thought they would see the most return on their investment, or is the electrical system on early cars really that flaky? I think the former rather than the latter?

Odd too that other Rover group cars didn't get the same electrical system? Any way, that's an altogether different conversation...

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It is strange how some BMW stuff sneaked into the Freelander on the MY01 release, including the TD4 engine.
What is even more strange, is BMW didn't own LR at the time the BMW stuff was used. LR was sold to Ford before the MY01 modifications went to production. The FL1 could have used Ford parts instead, but didn't.

I guess it would have gone that way (more Ford-orientated electrical systems) had PAG not been split up and sold off?

It was too far down the production cycle to change I believe, same as the L322 with the Td6.
My understanding is that the FL1 was supposed to go in 2004 but had to be stretched out to give Ford time to Ford-ify the FL2.

rob_bell said:

I guess it would have gone that way (more Ford-orientated electrical systems) had PAG not been split up and sold off?

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From my experience the bmw bit/electrics was the worst bit in my FL, and wish id bought an older L series one, think the ford way would have been better way to go having had fords for years and never had any problems with the electrics on em

of people I know who own them the fl2 has never given any trouble, my neighbours is on nearly 160k and hasnt missed a beat besides when he ripped the foot step off the side green laning

but anyway back on topic

Whats left to do on the green meanie Dave?

Well, they Ford-ified the L322 eventually didn't they? And the electrical reliability improved...

Where to start...?
Finish repairs to the tailgate. Belt change and fluids. New front number plate.
Then should be MOTable in theory.
Then I can worry about the 4WD bits which are currently spread out on my garage floor (prop, vcu, diff, rear driveshafts).
Going to put new oil seals in the diff, check the CVs etc.