P38A Immobilized car, please help..

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
That's helps a lot Marty, thank you so much..

Since I smelled this strong burnt smell coming from the engine fuse box I decided to take it out and show it to my mechanic, just to exclude that this is isn't causing the problem (read this previously on an other thread).

From there I'll move on and probably find a replacement lock with micro switches. It this hard to switch / would the Bcm need reprogramming?

Thanks again..
 
Rémon Silvester janisse said:
That's helps a lot Marty, thank you so much..

Since I smelled this strong burnt smell coming from the engine fuse box I decided to take it out and show it to my mechanic, just to exclude that this is isn't causing the problem (read this previously on an other thread).

From there I'll move on and probably find a replacement lock with micro switches. It this hard to switch / would the Bcm need reprogramming?

Thanks again..
Click to expand...
No not a bad job,Becm does not need reprogramming . Make sure you get the correct fuse box for your year/fuel type
 
It would be great if someone could use a fitting diagnosis kit on the Rover, it's still not working..

The mechanic tried to fix the fuse box which I re-installed yesterday. but.. it didn't help unfortunately.. he did mention that the box had a few faulty / burnt parts..

He will pick the car up next week, try to fix it at the workshop.
I've been reading about cutting the wires that lead to the (micro switches?), and combine them together. considering to just do that..

The mechanic also mentioned this as a possibility, so I guess we'll try that.

Thanks guys for helping out so far!
 
Just thought I bring up the info that the red alarm light stops blinking when I press the button on the remote.
Does this mean that the remote is synced?
Perhaps it's the spare key.. it's the only key I got.

Another thing is that all the doors including the trunk opens, except the left back door.. Can't get that to open..
 
Rémon Silvester janisse said:
Just thought I bring up the info that the red alarm light stops blinking when I press the button on the remote.
Does this mean that the remote is synced?
Perhaps it's the spare key.. it's the only key I got.

Another thing is that all the doors including the trunk opens, except the left back door.. Can't get that to open..
Click to expand...

Do you mean the doors lock and unlock on the fob other than the rear left? You need to look at it wiring or actuator.
 
The doors don't react on the fob, they never did, but I was able to disable the alarm with the fob.

I can manually open all doors except the door left-back, this door doesn't open at all.

When I open - close the drivers door through the key, the rest of the doors don't react to it. the central locking system isn't working..

I'll have a look at the wiring / actuator
 
Rémon Silvester janisse said:
The doors don't react on the fob, they never did, but I was able to disable the alarm with the fob.

I can manually open all doors except the door left-back, this door doesn't open at all.

When I open - close the drivers door through the key, the rest of the doors don't react to it. the central locking system isn't working..

I'll have a look at the wiring / actuator
Click to expand...

You really do need to describe what is going on accurately and in detail. Think you need to get some diag on the car and see what is disabled or not in the BECM first of all. If all is enabled disable the immobiliser and the EKA code until you have checked all the locks and wiring. You will need to strip the left rear door and find out what is wrong with it. It should still unlock with the internal button even if the CDL switch in the drivers door lock is duff.
 
wammers said:
You really do need to describe what is going on accurately and in detail. Think you need to get some diag on the car and see what is disabled or not in the BECM first of all. If all is enabled disable the immobiliser and the EKA code until you have checked all the locks and wiring. You will need to strip the left rear door and find out what is wrong with it. It should still unlock with the internal button even if the CDL switch in the drivers door lock is duff.
Click to expand...

Ok, i will do my best to describe it clearly:

Before this whole situation happend, the Central locking system was working only With the key.
All doors opened then except the front right door - this door i had to open manually With the button.
When i opened the driver door With the key - the alarm was dissabled - i heard a unlocking sound and i could start the car.

The key fob in that manner was also functioning but it didnt have a reaction on the doors - only the alarm was dissabled.

Today - When i turn the key around in the drivers door, the rest of the doors dont react to it. All doors open manually (With the button) except the left back door. I do have to add to this that the left back door makes a locking sound when i start With a New EKA code sequence.

Unfortuantly, when we try the diag of the local garage, we are only able to choose Range rover models from 2002 and up.. He has 7 different diag but they all show the same.

I agree that a proper diag would do a lot good in this situation... I was wondering - is it possible to dissable to immobiliser through resetting the BECM perhaps? I was thinking that maybe an main Power wire went to the BECM which could be unplugged and re-plugged..?
 
Rémon Silvester janisse said:
Ok, i will do my best to describe it clearly:

Before this whole situation happend, the Central locking system was working only With the key.
All doors opened then except the front right door - this door i had to open manually With the button.
When i opened the driver door With the key - the alarm was dissabled - i heard a unlocking sound and i could start the car.

The key fob in that manner was also functioning but it didnt have a reaction on the doors - only the alarm was dissabled.

Today - When i turn the key around in the drivers door, the rest of the doors dont react to it. All doors open manually (With the button) except the left back door. I do have to add to this that the left back door makes a locking sound when i start With a New EKA code sequence.

Unfortuantly, when we try the diag of the local garage, we are only able to choose Range rover models from 2002 and up.. He has 7 different diag but they all show the same.

I agree that a proper diag would do a lot good in this situation... I was wondering - is it possible to dissable to immobiliser through resetting the BECM perhaps? I was thinking that maybe an main Power wire went to the BECM which could be unplugged and re-plugged..?
Click to expand...

Please read my last post. You need diag that will read the BECM OBDII diag is no good you need a Nanocom or similar. Most of all you need someone who knows what they are doing with the car.
 
@martyuk has some very good lock diagnostic tests somewhere on here. Also on rangerovers.net, I believe. Worth trying those.

If the red light on the dash goes out I think the fob is probably working. Is it an auto? Think the auto also has a red light on the gearshift?

Sounds like it might have lost sync. If so you need a syncmate or Nanocom or similar to fix it. Might be a member on the LZIR map here: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...cue-map-everything-you-needed-to-know.191412/
 
wammers said:
Please read my last post. You need diag that will read the BECM OBDII diag is no good you need a Nanocom or similar. Most of all you need someone who knows what they are doing with the car.
Click to expand...

Ok.. i guess these nanocom diag are quite pricy.. could you inform me of what these normally cost?

The thing is that I don't have a trailer that fits this car, even if I found a trailer, I don't have a big / strong enough car to tow CA 2700 kg to the landrover workshop where they do have the right diag..
 
Grrrrrr said:
@martyuk has some very good lock diagnostic tests somewhere on here. Also on rangerovers.net, I believe. Worth trying those.

If the red light on the dash goes out I think the fob is probably working. Is it an auto? Think the auto also has a red light on the gearshift?

Sounds like it might have lost sync. If so you need a syncmate or Nanocom or similar to fix it. Might be a member on the LZIR map here: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...cue-map-everything-you-needed-to-know.191412/
Click to expand...

No, it's a manual.. yes, I also have the feeling the key fob needs synchronization.

What I think is the weirdest is that the right backdoor isn't opening, seems some kind of superlock on that specific door?
I can't remove the cover unfortunately when the door is closed to look at the wires..

I would be extremely happy to have the correct diag, I think that could really solve the problem.. ill check out the link.
 
Outside hope but you could try removing the L/H B post trim and checking the plugs behind that for moisture and corrosion. Find a plug with pink to pin 4 and orange/pink to pin 5. Pin 4 feeds the CDL motor pin 5 feeds the superlock motor. Unplug it and flash power to either of these pins going into the door. See what you get.
 
Rémon Silvester janisse said:
Just thought I bring up the info that the red alarm light stops blinking when I press the button on the remote.
Does this mean that the remote is synced?
Perhaps it's the spare key.. it's the only key I got.

Another thing is that all the doors including the trunk opens, except the left back door.. Can't get that to open..
Click to expand...
Bingo. That's what happened to mine. Had to remove the door panel and jump start the lock with a lawn mower battery, once I had forced an unlocking it all worked fine. Hope there's a glimmer of light for you!
 
Rémon Silvester janisse said:
No, it's a manual.. yes, I also have the feeling the key fob needs synchronization.

What I think is the weirdest is that the right backdoor isn't opening, seems some kind of superlock on that specific door?
I can't remove the cover unfortunately when the door is closed to look at the wires..

I would be extremely happy to have the correct diag, I think that could really solve the problem.. ill check out the link.
Click to expand...

No, not fob synchronisation. Engine synchronisation. The engine has a security code and the BECM (the brain if you like) has a security code. If these go out of sync you have a very large paper-weight on your drive.

The locks do have a superlock position. Once superlocked if the lock motor burns out then you're in a world of pain. Hopefully it is just a loose or corroded wire somewhere. Lock motors tend to burn out if your RF receiver unit hasn't been upgraded. Search on here for RF receiver and your search results should run to hundreds of pages!
 
Thanks for all the advice!!
I did manage to open the left back door now by putting a charger on the pink wire. :) (Thanks to a local range rover spesialist who guided me with finding the right wire, (Thanks!)

But it didn't help unfortunately.. what has changed is when i lock the drivers door with the key, the left back door locks as well (like before), but I'm able to manually unlock it again with the button.

I'll try to manually opening the door with the button during entering the EKA code, thanks for the suggestion.

I was meaning to ask Mark ; after you opened the door with the additional charger, did you have to enter the Eka code or could you just start the car straight away?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

D
Disco 3 (LR3) LR3 Immobilized After Unique Situation
Replies
1
Views
172
gstuart
gstuart
R
L322 electrical issues
Replies
9
Views
674
rik^^
R
BunduRafiki
L322 Drivers door won't open from inside or outside
Replies
6
Views
409
marjon
marjon
R
P38A I’ll be first person ever with a fob Sync problem 😂 help please!
2 3
Replies
46
Views
4K
Rsjohnb
R
D
2006 RRS 2.7 tdv6 gearbox help please
2 3
Replies
54
Views
1K
dave7494
D
Back
Top