Clutch related issue

Ok well about 2000 miles ago I had a clutch problem. So I took the box off and replaced everything:

-Heavy duty clutch kit
-Heavy duty clutch fork with release bearing
-brass bearing that sits in the end of the crank
-new slave cylinder
-new master cylinder
-braided hose from master to slave cylinder

So I literally replaced every part of the clutch system with new.

So today I drive about 20 miles have lunch, drive another 5 miles, stop at the shop, jump back in the landy drive off change to first gear like normal go to change to second and the pedal will only depress about half way then goes solid...

The clutch is still working as normal but it at the limit of its biting point as I can't get the pedal to go past about half travel. I have forced the pedal with all my weight but just is solid as a rock.

Anyone got any ideas what's going on?

Get someone to put pressure on the pedal (and hold it down), then open the slave cylinder bleed nipple (watch out for fluid), if the pedal then goes down something inside the bell housing is stopping its full movement, if it doesn't go any further then you have a mechanical restriction / obstruction in the clutch pedal box. Don't forget to close the bleed nipple before you let the pedal back up otherwise you may have to bleed it again

Thanks for the reply, yes I did that today and the pedal does travel like normal.

But all that eliminates is the master cylinder, I guess best case the slave cylinder is getting caught up. Otherwise that's all I can think gearbox off again.

It is strange though as it does all work like normal just the pedal goes rock solid about half way down, currently right where the bitting point for the clutch is. So I could in theory still use the landy like this but it just feel horrible.

HI, i had a similar problem on my 200tdi after replacing the clutch,slave, push rod and fork, half way down peddle went solid,
adjusted the bolt and locking nut on the back of the peddle box in the engine compartment and all was good.
just a thought.

Thanks for the reply I did put a spacer between the pedal and the adjuster but all that did was move the point that the pedal went hard higher up...

i do not know anything about these , but I think it would be obvious to just remove the spacer and shorten the actuating rod to give full movement !

I only fitted the spacer as a test it is not there anymore.

hoss A said:

i do not know anything about these , but I think it would be obvious to just remove the spacer and shorten the actuating rod to give full movement !

Click to expand...

He does have full movement (with the slave bleed nipple open), it will be something stopping the slave piston moving which is causing the issue.

Any chance the slave cylinder came in a blue bag? I've had cheap ones fail quickly.

Sounds like the next move is slave cylinder removal and hopefully you'll find something a miss there- good luck!

The slave was in a blue box I think. Yea slave will have to come off next and see if I can find anything

Take the slave out, take the dust cap off and the piston out, look for scoring. Replace it with a better quality one even if it looks good.

I'm sorry to burst your bubble mate but seems like it's gearbox-out time again. I had a similar problem six years ago. Turned out to be a warped pressure plate.