Range Rover classic restoration

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109inches

Well-Known Member
Posts
644
Location
Devon
I think this is my third restoration I've written on here and then I forget about updating it but it's probably the biggest project I've undertaken so far but that's where the fun is (I hope).

So I bought this a very original 1984 Range Rover classic with the original number plate engraved on every piece of glass on the vehicle.


It's a 5 speed long stick gearbox with a 3.5 rover v8 with a weber/edelbrock 500 single carb on top which has aged very similarly to the aluminium on the rocker covers so must have been added early on in the vehicles life.
It's got velour upholstery, original tape deck, central locking and mechanically is in pretty good nick. Apart from I can't get the engine to start still. But that should be resolved in the next week.

More piccies









The owner I brought it off had left it in a field for 4 years and had planned to use it for off-roading luckily his brother refused to let him do this to such an original car and it was left in the field waiting for me to come along.

I'm missing a few pricey and rare bits such as the grill and door mirrors.
Rust is in the usual places passenger sill and floor needs doing as well as the bulkhead in between the hinges and the top corner of the windscreen, passenger wheel arch at the rear, the rear body cross member the tailgate attaches to and the front drivers side inner wing.
However after 4 years the clutch and brakes work, it had brand new braking and suspension components fitted before it was laid up.
One of the bonnet hinges had snapped I assume it was very stiff and someone forced it and snapped it. The tailgates and bonnet need work and the interior needs a bloody good clean. Most of the electrics have stood up well but all light lenses were smashed.

The plan is to get it to a rolling restoration stage. I want it to be original but usable and not a really shiny show only vehicle. Work will be limited to 2 days a week as I've started a new job. But i will be buying a decent gas mig welder to get decent welds. And as I'll be doing a lot of welding I need to know that I can just pick it up start welding and not faffing about with things breaking like on my old one.
More pictures and updates to come of some of the work already done. Nothing major however.
But for £300 I'm pretty happy.
 
Good to see another one being saved and now in good hands best of luck with it and keep us posted.
 
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£300!! HAPPY !??!??! you lucky sod!:D

Great to see that being saved. Should make a decent useable vehicle.:cool:
 
The very best of luck with your project, hopefully another one saved. I've been to two major classic cars shoes over the last few months & not seen a single 'Classic' in any condition, let alone a good one. Going to three shows over the next couple of months & wonder if there'll be any there :cool:
 
Thanks for the encouragement guys. I have found an issue with the fuel system. Which is probably not helpin the starting. I put in 15 or so litres of fresh fuel, in a brand new fuel tank that was empty when I bought it. I took a sample of fuel that the fuel pump would send and it came out yellow and with a fair bit of water in it. So I drained the tank which came out perfectly clear and no water.
So I looked at the fuel pump and it looks very old in fact it's the exact same rust colour as the out rigger its bolted to so could be original? So I'm thinking bite the bullet and new fuel system.

The very best of luck with your project, hopefully another one saved. I've been to two major classic cars shoes over the last few months & not seen a single 'Classic' in any condition, let alone a good one. Going to three shows over the next couple of months & wonder if there'll be any there :cool:

I will be restoring the Range Rover to a stage where it can be a reasonably reliable daily driver. So a lot of time and money will be spent preserving the metal work for years to come, electric ignition is looking to be on the table as an option. My main aim is the nostalgic feel of the 80's but suitable for modern day motoring.

I should note that the Range Rover has affectionately been named Sybil as the number plate on it is 592 SYB. However this isn't the original plate. I will get some pictures of the work ahead.
 
So a preview of the work needed.













Then some slightly more pleasing pictures.
An engine



I did however get some new lights and tried them out.

 
Nice to see authentic signs of age in all the right places......
That a pillar looks nasty, me thinks it's a roof off job.

I actually have the a pillars off an 89 classic, PM me if you can't them.
 
The one picture I forgot was this


Stamped on every window.

The chassis has never been welded and looks very good just needs a coat of paint.

The a pillar is something I'm still planning. The windscreen has to come out and I will see how far the rust has got whilst that's out and decide on how salvageable it is.
 
awesome ! gone in the usual places.. a great save well done.. you seen my suffix a thread rust in the same places !!
 
It lives after 4 years it lives and sounds great even better with just the downpipe on.
So why wouldn't it start? Well after rebuilding the carb all of Sunday via the edelbrock owners manual it still wouldn't start and I was running out of ideas. So I got an assistant to see if there was anything coming out the back of the exhaust to give any clue on what to check next. And there was nothing no exhaust gases at all.
So I removed the exhaust system where the first silencer meets the downpipes and water started dripping out. With the exhaust off it was apparent that whilst sat water got into the exhaust and rotted it from the inside out. The silencer was preventing anything being blown out and my attempts at starting it had compressed the rust tightly into a solid clump. With it cleared I tried to start it. No choke and barely touched the key it came to life. And what engine better to hear, especially when it's taken this long to get it started, than the rover v8. And it sounded sweet as a nut. Fortunately my time rebuilding the carb, the timing and ignition system did not go to waste as it is damn close to running perfectly.
However I do have to solve a sticky oil pressure relief valve.

But mechanically it's sound. It really is just the rust that's the issue.
Sourcing the wing mirrors will be fairly difficult. But a month or two on from now most of the rust should have been dealt with. I've then got a few electrical bits to sort and it will be MOT-able.
I only have 2 days a week when I'm not working and it's outside. So weather dependent too. With the limited days I have to work on it I want to be able to enjoy it asap and deal with paint, and little things as I go.
 
So time for an update. Got most of the rear done and will be moving onto the near side sill at the weekend.
So here's some pics




A new rear body crossmember


The rotten mudguard painted and under sealed.
 
Watching with great interest too, as I too have a 1983 classic range rover, in the same colour, same spec, 5 speed box, twin carbs tho, and mine has the front end missing, just purchased new inner wings, and painted all ready to go on, and full engine rebuild! Keep posting!! Hope it's all going well!
 
good work
"And as I'll be doing a lot of welding I need to know that I can just pick it up start welding and not faffing about with things breaking like on my old one. "

I know all about that ^^ it is working today but I never know ;)
 
I am glad that I am not the only person spending all my time to reinstate a Range Rover back on the road
If I can will put some pictures on
 
Okay some small progress was made yesterday. After many years she's finally got a face back



I've done all the necessary welding in the back and just need to put the tank and floor back in.





Even the original carpet cleaned up nicely.

Still relatively luxurious 32 years on



And finally got the new aluminium tailgate on. Needs some adjusting but it keeps most of the weather out.


Next job is the inner and outer sill on the passenger side and the footwell. Then a few patches on the drivers side and that's about it for the welding.
 
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