Freelander 1 Had my drive train knocking diagnosed

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

Bandit127

Member
Posts
73
Location
Southampton
I have a drive train knocking on my new for me 2001 TD4. I thought I had knackered rear diff mounts - but the symptoms weren't quite right. Instead of a knock on sharp acceleration I had a knocking while turning on full lock and applying a bit of power.

I had it checked today and it turns out that the rubber mounts that hold the VCU bearings in the housings are shot. The rear has about 3 mm of play and the front about 5 mm - both on the outside of the rubber. The rubber is bouncing around in the housing and that knock is coming through the floor. The VCU checks out fine, but I guess it could be damage from transmission wind up from a previous unit. Backlash in the IRD and diff were both OK so that's good.

I booked it in for new bearings so that should hopefully solve the problem.

In the meantime the underside is doing very well. A bit of surface rust here and there was all (apart from the peeling centre box on the exhaust which might need doing soon). One brake line was showing a bit of rust on a clip and that could potentially be an advise on the next MOT so I will clean that up.

All in all I am quite pleased, considering what could have been going on under there.
 
Exhaust is double skinned, so don't spend your money unless really necessary.
By the way, we tend to put posts like these in the 'what have you done to your freelander today' thread. Then we can refer back to them nice and easily.
And....... welcome to the forum ;)
Mike
 
Got the propshaft hanger bearings replaced today and all the clunking has gone. Drive is a lot smoother at 1,500 rpm too - I was changing gear out of that zone because of the vibration.

I got an oil change and the filters done at the same time (oil, air, fuel and crankcase).

Top service and a very good price from Lewis Land Rover Specialist in Curdridge. Highly recommended and his workshop is a very interesting place if you like Land Rovers. One of them was a work in progress, a complete Defender rebuild on a brand new zinc plated chassis. Another was a finished Defender build that he had just sold and neither had so much as a spot of rust anywhere - even on any of the connectors. Pretty much everything except the bodywork looked brand new on both of them. Clearly a man passionate about Land Rovers and it was awesome.
 
I had exactly the same issue with vcu bearings about a month before I sold my td4. Knocking when pulling into parking spaces. That's the second set of genuine lr bearings I had taken off. First ones were fitted with new vcu and bearings themselves failed after 13 months. Another set fitted and after 10 months rubber on front bearing split. Was not impressed!
 
Genuine bearings should last much longer than that. They do have to be fitted correctly though or the life is short.
 
First set were fitted by reputable LR independent garage. I fitted second set and took care to make sure housings were as well aligned as could be. With the bearings in flexible mounts what more can you do? I noticed that all the bearings were marked made in India and I'm sure this would not have been the case before the TATA takeover. No doubt when vehicles were built with GKN vcu they also had GKN bearings.
 
First set were fitted by reputable LR independent garage. I fitted second set and took care to make sure housings were as well aligned as could be. With the bearings in flexible mounts what more can you do? I noticed that all the bearings were marked made in India and I'm sure this would not have been the case before the TATA takeover. No doubt when vehicles were built with GKN vcu they also had GKN bearings.
That's not looking good for LR bearings, if they are just as bad as the aftermarket alternatives. If that's the case, there's little point in spending the extra money on general LR bearings.
The actual original bearings are available without the rubber housing. I have one in my workshop, I'll post a picture and the part number.
 
I've recently had a knocking when turn L or R as I'm pulling away. I thought it was my centre diff mount and ordered a LR replacement. I was under the FL today doing a few things. I checked the diff mount and it seemed fine. NO signs of stress / wear... UJs are fine, prop & drive shafts OK. However I did spot that the VCU bearing had been moving about as I could see the rubber was clean on two areas each side. Yes, I hadn't lined it up accurately. I loosened the bolts and used a tell rule to measure the distance between the hanger frame and the face of the VCU. Made sure F & B were equal. All well now.
 
As Htr said above. It's vital that the VCU bearings are at 90° to the VCU shafts. It also needs to be on the vehicle centre line. But bearing alignment is the most important thing when fitting them.
 
If indeed they were genuine Land Rover bearings then they have a 2 year warranty so if you have the receipt you can get a replacement set at no charge - assuming the failure is done to a manufacturing defect of course!

(That's the same as any warranty)
 
I was surprised at the genuine bearings. Initially I was hacked off with the LR Indy who fitted them as they told me they only used best quality parts so when I saw these things I thought I had been diddled.
I picked up two new bearings from local LR dealer to find they were just the same. Very soft rubbers and bearing races marked as made in India. ( not that I have anything against India) but it seems logical that since TATA took over LR, certain contracts may have gone out to Indian companies who's parts are not yet tried and tested. Having read up on the quality of some other aftermarket bearings it's all a bit disappointing as you would think any company who got consistent complaints or returns on a product would either vastly improve or stop selling them.
 
Back
Top